450 trouble getting screw to come out of blade grip/feathering shaft

[mesapilotrjguy900]

i have a copterx cx450 me v2 that i am doing some lock tite applying to. currently having trouble getting both screws to come out of feathering shaft so i can grease the bearings. i take two 1.5 mil hex drives and only one will unscrew out, thus im only able to lock tite one of them. if anyone has any advice on how to get the other one out would be much appreciated thank you.

 

[Smoggie]

The feathering shaft along with the grip that's still attached can be pulled out of the head block. It may be tight if the rubber dampers havent been greased so they grip onto the shaft, but it will move if you push it firmly enough. Once the shaft is out on the head you can slide the grip off exposing the bearings without actually removing the remaining screw.

Alternatively you get a feathering shaft wrench such as this type: Tarot Feathering Shaft Wrench (Multi-size) which allows the exposed end of the shaft to be gripped so you can take out the remaining screw.

Getting a feathering shaft wrench is a good idea because they do come in useful.

 

[mesapilotrjguy900]

awesome thank you

 

[murankar]

Sometimes applying heat will help in backing out the other bolt.

 

[Smoggie]

Good point about heat, you need to get it up to around 200C to release the loctite but only attempt this if you need to after removing the shaft from the plastic grip, you don't want a melted grip!

 

[mesapilotrjguy900]

well i was able to get the other screw out, but not the way i wanted, had to use pliers and now the shaft is all scratched up so ill be getting a new one off ebay, and also with my copterx head there is no thrust bearing just a two regular bearings per side, basically there was much less parts inside compared to the actual trex 450 se v2 where it has thrust bearings and washers and regular bearings. And also should i put grease on the regular bearings or do you only do that with thrust bearings, thanks.

 

[Smoggie]

Are you 100% sure that there are no thrust bearings? That would be very unusual and i dont think would work, or at least not for long. Sometimes the thrust bearing is located in-between the two radial bearings rather than on the outside, so you may have missed it. The radial bearings come grease packed, so no need for additional grease.

As you discovered, you shouldn't use pliers or similar on the feathering shaft. The feathering shaft wrench is the tool for the job.

 

[murankar]

Normally I would wrap my spindle in a rag or something and then grip it. You could also get something like fuel tube to slip over the needle nose. Another option is a hobby vice.

You could clean up the shaft with some Emery cloth and a dremel buffing wheel. Unless the scathing is to deep.

I use a small butane torch to heat up the spindle. If you get it just right then the bolt come right out.

 

[mesapilotrjguy900]

do you think its still safe to use, just a few scratches on it and not bent

 

[Smoggie]

As long as the bearings slide over the shaft ok then is should be usable

 

[Smoggie]

Normally I would wrap my spindle in a rag or something and then grip it. You could also get something like fuel tube to slip over the needle nose. Another option is a hobby vice.

I'd really recommend that you get yourself a feathering shaft wrench Uri, they are very handy little tools. If you use one it really should need any heat because you can get more purchase on the shaft/screw and no possibility of damaging the shaft.

PS.. if using a heat source as powerful as a butane torch just be a bit careful. The shafts are hardened steel and if you get them too hot you will soften the shaft, same goes for the screw itself.

 

[murankar]

If your heating to a point that it's glowing, your done. Some common sense needs to be had.

All one is doing is heating it up to slightly expand the spindle so the bolt breaks free.

 

[Smoggie]

Agreed Uri, I was just thinking that with a butane torch on a small 450 feathering shaft it would be quite easy to inadvertently put much too much heat in? FWIW for smaller screws if I need it i use the tip of a soldering iron. A hot air gun works on larger parts. It's hardly ever needed with Blue Loctite, the red stuff is harder to shift.

Henkel recommend 250 degC to release Loctite, as i understand it the Loctite itself goes soft at that temperature.

 

[murankar]

Yes one could over heat it but the metal has to actually change in color. Typically a straw yellow color signature would mean the hardening is shot.

I am by no means a metal forger but have seen a good number of videos on hardening steal. You could reheat treat it by quenching it in oil.

For what it costs for a spindle if I over heated it I wouldn't mind. Personally if I am taking both bolts out then I am tossing the spindle and keeping the bolts.