Ant-Monster
New Member
A few days ago I decided I wanted to start running the T-Maxx 3.3 my pops bought for my when I was a teenager again. A few years have past since last driven, and I figured I'll have to break down the motor and clean it out before I can fire it up. I'm sure I flushed the engine before I stored it with WD-40. However, I never did own After Run Oil. I remember I stop driving my T-Maxx because I stripped my spur gear twice in a row. The first time I stripped one, I bought a replacement. After putting the new 2nd one in, I stripped it in about 4 minutes. So I flushed the motor and placed it in my closet and years past by. A few days ago I missed bashing that thing, so I decided to buy some new glow plugs, spur gears, and a few other things. I went outside with some WD-40 and tried to flush the engine. With the air filter & glow plug off, I flipped it over and tried the EZ start lol. Clearly there was some gumk build up, because the piston took a sec before I heard it roll over with the pop sound. After a few seconds the piston was now rolling over correctly while flushing it with WD-40. Since I lost daylight due to repairs on the T-Maxx, when I went outside to fire it up. I think I may have flooded the motor when priming it because it was too dark to see the fuel go in the carb. The EZ start would rotate the pistol, and then it would just stop. So I called it a day and went inside.
That's when I stumbled upon Tony's videos. I YouTube searched 'T-Maxx Engine Rebuild.' Tony, you're videos are very simple, and easy to follow. I can tell you put in effort while editing. It's currently 5am as I type this lol... After watching a movie with my girl, I started watching a couple of your videos over and over trying to memorize the steps to regain the knowledge I once had when I was an active Nitro RC driver.
But nonetheless, I have a few questions.
1). After realizing I accidentally purchased 30% nitro boat fuel, is it safe to use in my T-Maxx 3.3? I'm aware it's not good to switch fuels. I used to run BlueThunder 30%. The only difference about the fuel I have now (AquaCraft GrimRacer 30%), and BlueThunder is the oil mixture. This fuel has more oil, and is 100% cosmetic.
2). Should I break down my entire motor and clean & lube everything with WD-40?
3). I decided not to switch the glow plug I had inside since it glowed nice and orange. Should I switch it anyways because it's a few years old?
4). Can Tony's T-Maxx 2.5 video engine methods be applied to the 3.3?
I hope I don't need to replace anything. Thanks in advance.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh yeah, what's a good temperature to run a T-Maxx 3.3? I think back then I tried to stay in the 150° F.
That's when I stumbled upon Tony's videos. I YouTube searched 'T-Maxx Engine Rebuild.' Tony, you're videos are very simple, and easy to follow. I can tell you put in effort while editing. It's currently 5am as I type this lol... After watching a movie with my girl, I started watching a couple of your videos over and over trying to memorize the steps to regain the knowledge I once had when I was an active Nitro RC driver.
But nonetheless, I have a few questions.
1). After realizing I accidentally purchased 30% nitro boat fuel, is it safe to use in my T-Maxx 3.3? I'm aware it's not good to switch fuels. I used to run BlueThunder 30%. The only difference about the fuel I have now (AquaCraft GrimRacer 30%), and BlueThunder is the oil mixture. This fuel has more oil, and is 100% cosmetic.
2). Should I break down my entire motor and clean & lube everything with WD-40?
3). I decided not to switch the glow plug I had inside since it glowed nice and orange. Should I switch it anyways because it's a few years old?
4). Can Tony's T-Maxx 2.5 video engine methods be applied to the 3.3?
I hope I don't need to replace anything. Thanks in advance.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh yeah, what's a good temperature to run a T-Maxx 3.3? I think back then I tried to stay in the 150° F.