Learning to fly

concept30

Member
i thought i would post this video of me learning to fly, not really good, but alease im trying, yea i know its a short video but the point is to show everyone how good im not at flying if you call this flying

blade 450 - YouTube
 

Tony

Staff member
alright bro, lets get you some stability. It seems that heli is all over the place, and I don't think it's all your fingers.

Post up what heli you have, what Tx, and what your rudder gain is set at as well as your pitch and throttle curves and any dual rate or expo that you may be running. We are here to help.
 

concept30

Member
I have a Blade 450 3D, DX6i, gyro is holding good I think, on my tx the gyro is set at 65%, Pictch Curve is (L)45 (2) 45 (3) 45 (4) 75 (H) 100, Thro Cerve is Liner.
 

Tony

Staff member
First thing is first, we need to make sure the tail is in HH mode. When you move the rudder stick, do the blades stay pointing to one direction when you center the rudder stick? If so, great, you are in HH mode. If not, then we need to look at your gain wire plugged into the Rx. The tail looks like it's all over the place.

Fro a pitch curve, set it to 46 48 50 75 100. MAKE SURE you have 0º of pitch at mid stick, or 50%, this is imperative for a good flying helicopter.

For your throttle curve, and I think this is also a factor with the tail going all over the place, set it to 0 40 65 65 65. This will give you a nice flat curve when you are flying.

In teh video, you were chopping the throttle, but the heli was still floating quite a bit. This tells me that you still have positive pitch even at low stick. As stated above, you MUST set that head up correctly for it to fly correctly. Spend two hours setting up the head and it will pay off when you fly.

You didn't say anything about DR or Expo. Set your DR to 80% and set your expo to +30%. Trust me on this, set it up and give it a shot for a few flights.

Let me know how all of this works.
 

EyeStation

Well-Known Member
Assuming all the mechanical is set properly, I would start with a bunch of Right Rudder sub trim.
When it starts to lift, what corrections are you having to make immediately? Start to sub trim the same channels in the opposite direction.
You should never use the right stick for corrections when the heli is still in contact with the surface. This will cause the gyro to throw your heli around too.
Try to spool up a bit slower and notice where it is leaning as the skids become light. let it back down and subtrim that out and spool up again. Or as Tony says, "Rinse and Repeat".
 

Tony

Staff member
You may know this ES, but this is a flybar heli and you can use right cyclic when lifting off. With training gear, it intensifies the effect of left drift. I think the nose left is because he is running a linear throttle curve. All fo that torque is more than the gyro/servo can compensate for with a sudden burst of energy.
 

concept30

Member
im getting some blades soon and will do another video Thanks Tony and ES, i didnt wanna make the video cause I thought i was good on the Sim and could fly and didnt want all yall thinking this dude can not fly worth a darn. but Tony I did change all my settings in my DX6i and ES i think i do need some stick fixes
 

EyeStation

Well-Known Member
Did not know that Tony. I will take a second look on my FB setup and see if I have an excessive right dialed in unnecessarily.
I mistakenly took the rule to be true for all heli's.
 

Tony

Staff member
Bro, NEVER think that we are going to say anything like that. We are here to help no matter if you are a true beginner or a seasoned pilot.

If you think you are good on the sim, then your heli acts like this, this is a huge sign that the setup on the helicopter is not correct. On the sim, the heli's are setup perfectly. In real life, you must do the work to set them up.

Again, and I can't stress this enough, set your head up properly. 0º of pitch at 50% pitch curve, mid stick. This is the MOST IMPORTANT STEP of the setup. If you dont' have that setup right, it will never fly correctly.
 

Tony

Staff member
ES, the reason you don't want to touch the cyclic on a FBL heli, is because it will tilt the swash and keep it tilted for a bit. this can and will cause the heli to tip to teh right. But on a FB helicopter, once you let go of the cyclic stick, the swash immediately centers it's self again.
 

Slobberdog

Well-Known Member
Dude everyone has to start somewhere, I guarantee that, I was chuffed to bits the first time when I got my heli off the ground for a few seconds, 8 months on I am chuffed to bits if I get the heli moving around and get it down without crashing,

Most on here have gone the same route as me, some quicker, but as long as you have fun that's whats important.
 

DAL2855

Banned
Yes correct, you should have 0 degrees of pitch at mid-stick, about -3 degrees at low stick and +8 or 9 degrees at full stick for learning.
 

RMB677

Member
I don't think that anyone mentioned to have the Tx in "F-mode" and throttle centered when adjusting the blades to 0 pitch. Be sure to unplug 2 of the motor leads before adjusting and to check and adjust the blade tracking after setting the pitch.
 

RMB677

Member
When you go into F-mode the 0 throttle setting is with the stick at mid-point with +100% pitch at the max stck position and -100% and the lowest position. This is also known as stunt mode. When in this setting the throttle is at whatever it is set for the stunt mode and the stick controls blade pitch. I am still in the normal mode flying class, the 3Ders use the stunt mode for all their upside down, etc. flying.
 

Tony

Staff member
In reality, you can just set your T-Hold to a linear pitch curve with a flat 0% throttle curve and do the same thing. T-Hold should keep the motor from spinning, but it's safer to just unplug the motor.
 
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