Post Your Current Print Job
- Thread starter Tony
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Tony
Staff member
Thanks to callsign4223, I have two of the Ubiquiti Flex Mini's and they are awesome! I have one in my living room for everything connected to my TV and I have another one on my desk for my computer, work computer, TV as my top monitor, my sim rig and an extra port for whatever I need. My work computer is on a VLAN and the setup is super simple.
Unfortunately the Flex Mini does not have any mounting options and I really do not like just having it sitting on my desk. So I found a mount that someone already designed and I'm printing two of them right now. At first, I wanted 100% infill, but after seeing the 20+ hours for print time, I lowered that down to 15% infill and it's now 9 hours lol.
Below is the sliced image. I will try to remember to post an image after it is done printing.
Unfortunately the Flex Mini does not have any mounting options and I really do not like just having it sitting on my desk. So I found a mount that someone already designed and I'm printing two of them right now. At first, I wanted 100% infill, but after seeing the 20+ hours for print time, I lowered that down to 15% infill and it's now 9 hours lol.
Below is the sliced image. I will try to remember to post an image after it is done printing.
Hi everyone,
Not exactly a "current print job" cos it didn't really take long. Anyway, just a very simple flybar locking tool that I'll need very soon for setting blade pitch on a clone 450. Stl made in Freecad, sliced with Creality slicer and printed on an Ender 3.
m2 x 14 screw fitted nicely into top of rotor head.
Free Stl file should be on Cults3d.
Download free STL file Flybar locking tool • Design to 3D print ・ Cults
I think I love 3d printers as much as I love helicopters!
Not exactly a "current print job" cos it didn't really take long. Anyway, just a very simple flybar locking tool that I'll need very soon for setting blade pitch on a clone 450. Stl made in Freecad, sliced with Creality slicer and printed on an Ender 3.
m2 x 14 screw fitted nicely into top of rotor head.
Free Stl file should be on Cults3d.
Download free STL file Flybar locking tool • Design to 3D print ・ CultsI think I love 3d printers as much as I love helicopters!
Tony
Staff member
Yea, if I was more into flybar heli's, that would definitely be a good tool to have! Back in the day, I made one out of acrylic (which you probably saw in one of my videos) and it did the job, but I like how you have that one wrapping around the flybar! Awesome job 
And just an FYI, STL files are allowed on the site. No worries about the link to the 3D page, just letting you know.
And just an FYI, STL files are allowed on the site. No worries about the link to the 3D page, just letting you know.
LooseNut
Active Member
I was in need of a Vertical Fin for a 450 size machine so I could swap out the CF one on the Trainer I'm building for my brother. The CF ones are very stiff and a ground spin will bend the boom. I didn't have a plastic one kicking around and one off the B-400 is a little short.
So I drew one up in Fusion and printed it out.
I used my favorite, HTPLA Dark Gray from Proto-pasta. The settings I used are 212c for nozzle, 55c for bed with glue stick, 6 layers top and bottom, and 6 for walls (allows sanding the edges to shape). The infill is set to Grid at 15%. The part is heat treated in the oven after printing at 250 F (110c ) for 10 minutes since the section is only .085 thick.
If you aren't familiar with the HTPLA's they come in some cool colors. I prefer the CF myself. You are able to heat treat them further binding the fibers for a tougher part that will stand up better and not start to break down at temps over 50c like typical PLA.
Pretty cool stuff. Very Tough and still flexible enough to give on a sideway ground swipe.
So I drew one up in Fusion and printed it out.
I used my favorite, HTPLA Dark Gray from Proto-pasta. The settings I used are 212c for nozzle, 55c for bed with glue stick, 6 layers top and bottom, and 6 for walls (allows sanding the edges to shape). The infill is set to Grid at 15%. The part is heat treated in the oven after printing at 250 F (110c ) for 10 minutes since the section is only .085 thick.
If you aren't familiar with the HTPLA's they come in some cool colors. I prefer the CF myself. You are able to heat treat them further binding the fibers for a tougher part that will stand up better and not start to break down at temps over 50c like typical PLA.
Pretty cool stuff. Very Tough and still flexible enough to give on a sideway ground swipe.
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LooseNut
Active Member
For those interested, I also drew up the bottom cover for the SPMAR 636 Rx and printed a couple sections to make sure I had the right fit and clearances from parts and board traces not to short things out when I make it from Aluminum.
3D print for the win!!!!
3D print for the win!!!!
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LooseNut
Active Member
LooseNut
Active Member
One of the test skids I printed. It was a little taller than I thought, but I'll use it for something.
Anyway, look closer and you can see how well the Carbon Fiber HTPLA prints and I have it dialed in.
I had it on the plate in that orientation and you can see how well the C'bores printed as well as the center hole since it's for a 450 Pro.
This Filament color is the Black. For the CF they have Light Grey, Med Grey, and Dark Grey. I've been using the Dark Grey (on my 3rd Spool) and Black (still 1st spool)
Anyway, look closer and you can see how well the Carbon Fiber HTPLA prints and I have it dialed in.
I had it on the plate in that orientation and you can see how well the C'bores printed as well as the center hole since it's for a 450 Pro.
This Filament color is the Black. For the CF they have Light Grey, Med Grey, and Dark Grey. I've been using the Dark Grey (on my 3rd Spool) and Black (still 1st spool)
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LooseNut
Active Member
Picture of some of the skids and sample prints. The second pic is the screen capture from the set I'm printing tonight.
The set has a 1.5 degree rake as I measure from the commercial available set and narrows from from to back in the same manner.
I designed them for the 450 pro, thus the side screws since it only uses a single screw attachment front and rear.
The set has a 1.5 degree rake as I measure from the commercial available set and narrows from from to back in the same manner.
I designed them for the 450 pro, thus the side screws since it only uses a single screw attachment front and rear.
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