You don't need a program card to program that ESC. You can program it with the TX. I'll check those setting when I get home.
Batteries Align 450 pro 3gx battery ???
- Thread starter Dizzle000
- Start date
Slobberdog
Well-Known Member
Like the others Xokia and Super bad have said, I also use 2200mah 25c batteries, I am relatively new to flying, mainly hovering around, and am now getting into a bit of forward flight and I have my timer set at six minutes and my batteries come down with plenty of juice left in them, my motor is not even that warm, and the battery is slightly warm,
With the 3200 battery I doubt if you could get the canopy on!
heli-maniac
New Member
Slobberdog
Well-Known Member
We are against it, because its not a proper joint!
In a soldered joint the two pieces are fused together the flow of electric has a uninterrupted path, with a crimped joint the wires are pressed together, the flow in essence has to jump from the wire to the connector, this will cause heat and resistance, that is why you are having less battery time, if you produce heat you lose energy.
As I said in your other thread there is a good reason that all rc heli connections are gold plated,
Not trying to downgrade anyone by any means but soldering is super easy there are plenty ov vids on YouTube there is even a how to solder on rc-help YouTube . You don't need to have a 250 dollar soldering gun if you go to any hardware or craft store you can find a regular pen style soldering iron for 10-20 bucks
I bought a butane slandering iron from Home Depot for 20 bucks if you can light a lighter you can solder.
I bought a butane slandering iron from Home Depot for 20 bucks if you can light a lighter you can solder.
DAL2855
Banned
Yeah but Dizzle, after spending almost a grand on this bird in parts and radio and everything top of the line for it, now I don't have the money to go buy a soldering iron of any kind. I thought I had purchased everything I needed for it, but apparently not. It was just a complete and total waste of money for me to buy everything I did, because I still won't be able to fly it.
Completely understandable I'm new to this hobby and holy sh!t it's exspencive walk into hobby shop to buy some hex drivers oil a battery and some deans plugs .120 bucks , i spent so much money lately I think twice about buying cheap tower pro servos for my artech falcon lol.
Any chance a friend or neighbour has a soldering gun/ iron they would let you borrow? If not guess you are stuck with auto plugs till you get a little cash for a soldering iron just make sure you squeeze the life outta the connector and if u have some dialectic grease wouldn't hurt to put some in the connector will help with the electric jump from wire to connector.
Any chance a friend or neighbour has a soldering gun/ iron they would let you borrow? If not guess you are stuck with auto plugs till you get a little cash for a soldering iron just make sure you squeeze the life outta the connector and if u have some dialectic grease wouldn't hurt to put some in the connector will help with the electric jump from wire to connector.
DAL2855
Banned
The auto plugs won't work though on this 6S setup, I've already burnt up one motor, RX, 4 Servos and an Align 3G FBL unit because of them. I have all top of the line parts coming for this bird and don't wanna screw anything else up when I get these parts installed. I have an Ikon, DX8, SAT's, HV servos and everything coming for this bird. I've spent way too much on this stuff to fry it. I also have a new motor, Align 600MX coming for it. I had the 600XL motor, which KV rating was way too high for this bird, although I did tach the head the other evening and it was almost perfect on the HS after changing the gear ratio on it. But when I get the MX motor installed, I'll be using the Helical 11T pinion and 112T main that Align recommends and sells with their kits. I have a neighbor who used to do alot of soldering, but last time I spoke with him about a soldering iron, he said he had several, but had no clue where any of them were, or if they even still worked or not. He's the only one I know who knows how to solder. He used to work on CB Radios all the time.
Slobberdog
Well-Known Member
Guys your not talking about just using any old connector to get in the air, Mike you have already had a meltdown on your 550 that has cost you $100's of bucks in electrics, think of that happening mid air and you also have something coming down that will hurt someone,
As Tony and I stated in your other thread you should use hobby designed connectors or you are gonna be asking for trouble,
As for the soldering, my soldering iron is approx 40 watts not big by any means, and I have not suffered a cold joint yet, it does however take a bit of practice and preparation, and it can be done right.
As Tony and I stated in your other thread you should use hobby designed connectors or you are gonna be asking for trouble,
As for the soldering, my soldering iron is approx 40 watts not big by any means, and I have not suffered a cold joint yet, it does however take a bit of practice and preparation, and it can be done right.
DAL2855
Banned
Yeah but when I don't have the money now to purchase anything else, what am I supposed to do? I'm not going to just let the bird set in the corner after spending all this money on all the high dollar electronics and stuff that I got for it. That would be a complete waste of money.
Beep -> this is correct
Beep, Beep -> this is the timing and correct
Beep, Beep -> this is the voltage cut-off I would have this set to single beep double beep is fine though
Beep Beep -> this is the aircraft select its set to helicopter with soft start which is correct
Beep -> This is the throttle response you have it set to the lowest setting. I would have this one set to 3 beeps
If you are using automotive connectors then that is really bad. I do not use those even on automotive
Soldering is easy if you get the right equipment, I would advise against the pen style soldering irons. They take to long to heat up and generally dont have enough power to get the job done correctly. Below is a perfect iron for what you are trying to do. It heats up instantly and has more then enough power to solder your wires.
Shop Weller Electric Lead-Free Soldering Kit at Lowes.com
A few tips on soldering. Use 60/40 tin/lead rosin core based solder. Do not buy lead free solder it flows like poop requires a lot more heat and you need to master normal solder before moving to lead free. The rosin core flux is like a lubricant it's what makes the solder flow nicely. If your solder clumps then you dont have enough heat.
Some of the mistakes I see when people solder. They stick the solder directly to the iron and then the iron to the metal they are trying to solder. Solder will always want to travel towards the heat source. You can "tin" the tip of your iron with solder but that should be it. When soldering the iron should be in direct contact with the material you are trying to solder. When you apply solder it should be applied on the opposite side of where the iron is placed. Such that that solder is pulled through the material in order to get to the heat source.
I can understand the frustration when on a limited budget. But if it's not done right you are going to run into bigger problems and it WILL be more expensive. Can you see if anyone near you could help you out? Check your hobby store if you're a regular customer sometimes they will help you out.
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DAL2855
Banned
With the iron I have Xokia, I have to touch the solder to the iron to get it too melt. Otherwise it won't melt. I don't have anyone close to me who knows how to solder, and I don't have a LHS. Atleast not one I have access too. It's 70 miles away. No DL or vehicle so I can't get there. I have to make due with what I have. That's my biggest frustration in this hobby!
40w is to small. You don't want to sit and cook the part you are trying to solder. You want to instantly heat the connection up.
EyeStation
Well-Known Member
In order to get good heat conduction from the solder iron tip, you must have molten solder on the tip. Not gobs, but a layer to help transfer the tip heat to the object soldered. If your tip is blackened and cannot melt the solder directly, it needs to be cleaned of the slag. Most times a light abrasive paper will help clear the slag, or a wire brush. DO NOT sand or file the silver colored armor plating off the tip. If you expose the copper innerds of the tip, it will quickly erode through use.
A properly tinned tip will allow you to solder quickly. A tip that will not tin properly, will never solder properly.
A properly tinned tip will allow you to solder quickly. A tip that will not tin properly, will never solder properly.