700 Align 700n Project DoH

[Al.]

Thanks,

Lets change the subject a bit.

what do you think, to using this as a starting setup. -5 lowstick 0 center +9 highstick as blade pitch setting. dumbing down the heli a bit.

 

[Tony]

With a linear pitch curve (0 25 50 75 100), you MUST have the same positive and negative pitch. If you are at -5 and +9, then your swash is too high and you need to shorten your servo to swash links, then readjust your 0º mid stick and check it again. If you are running a DFC head, your swash to blade grip links should be screwed all the way in and exactly the same length. You will then put your Tx at mid stick, again with a linear pitch curve, and adjust ONLY the servo to swash links until you get 0º of pitch. If your positive and negative are off then, then it's your servo arms that are not perfectly 90º. Hope that makes sense. But you MUST have the same pitch both positive and negative. You will use your pitch curve menu to dial the pitch down or even the swash menu. But, we will get there soon.

 

[Al.]

Low stick -21.7
Centre 0.0
High stick 24.9

so, I have something wrong somewhere.

Time to take it part again..

 

[Tony]

Don't take it apart.

Go into your swash menu and go to the Pitch menu. It should be on 60. I stress "should". Put your pitch gauge on a blade, raise it to full stick, and adjust that pitch number until you get down to 10-12 degrees of pitch. From there, your negative number should be pretty close.

It can take hours to properly set up a head on these helicopters. Just take your time and you will get it.

 

[Al.]

23.1 High
0.03 mid.
23.2Low.

But im having to do fine adjustment on these (pic1), other wise the arm are not at 90% (pic2)

 

[Tony]

As stated above, those DFC links MUST be screwed all the way in. There are not many threads on those and you need them all the way in for safety.

 

[Al.]

yep. and I see you point, but its going to be impossible to keep the arms at 90% using align setting.

when I do, I end up with 3% neg at centre stick, with every thing set 90%.

this is why, its sat on the shelf for 2+ years.

 

[Tony]

The settings and lengths in teh align manual are only starting points. According to your last picture, your bellcrank is too far clockwise and is not level in that picture. It needs to raise the swash up to be level and that will take up the space that you had to unscrew the DFC link. At this point in time, you can forget the specs in teh manual and set it up where everything is perfect.

 

[Al.]

Ok, this is set centre stick, and aligned, with the adjblade adjuster as they should be. Ive tried to take best pic.

Pitch is 2.6 neg.

also the linear is out, 14.3 low and 9.8 high.

so taking all this into account, if I offset the arm a touch, everything would line.. should I move in this direction.

 

[Tony]

I know that it could be the picture, but the elevator looks like it's still too high. Also, I put a square on the two ball studs on the bell crank, and the square doesn't match up to the linkages. I may have to make a quick video this weekend to show you exactly what I mean, but I should be able to walk you through it. I have a 600N, so my servos are directly inline with the bell cranks unlike yours. But, it's the same principle.

My advice. Screw the DFC links all the way in and adjust the servo subtrim in DIR mode until you reach 0º of pitch at mid stick. Also make sure your swash is perfectly level.

 

[Al.]

Ok, I've found a 700N DFC manual. and from the pictures the outer bell crank arms are different, they have to setting, mine have one.

I guess im parts hunting tomorrow.

 

[Al.]

Important 700n DFC info.

When align did the kit to update your 700n, they did not include the correct links. this is why im out -0.3 negative.

The ball links that connect the swash plate to the blade holder are to short. The same also applies to the 44mm arm DFC upgrade.

I have attached a photo showing the ball link and arms different using the right parts.

Parts
HN7100A this will give you the right ball link ends. the bars are trash.
700DFC Swashplate Linkage Rod Set H70116
Metal Aileron Lever/Black HN7034BA (Optional)

 

[Al.]

Good evening.

Well after spending all day, at it, here are the results.

High stick 12.0
Centre 0.04
Low Stick 11.8

The bad news is there a few new parts arriving tomorrow, as I've used old parts to test. But everything now lines up correctly.

Hopefully it will just be a simple swap over...

 

[Tony]

Al, I would not swap a thing with settings like that. That is very close to perfect. As much as you can with a DFC head. Just leave it right there and you should be fine.

 

[breeze400]

The reason there are two holes in the bell cranks is the inside hole is for a dfc head and the outside hole is for a fly bared head.

 

[Al.]

HI.

Yep, that's what I found out, so I've now ordered to new cranks. I have the old 700n cranks, and they only support flybar.

Possibly they will make know difference. But I have always enjoyed the building side.

Now aiming for perfection to keep Tony happy

- - - Updated - - -

PS you have to many models. lol

 

[Al.]

Well my old problem is back, ever since I purchased the OS GT15HZ motor I've had a problem, Glitching. This is why I changed the servos, receiver, Regulator, telemity unit, etc
The only things I have not changed, are the 3GX and the Engine electronics box. I've just ordered a new electronics box from Japan. If this fails I'm at a loss.

basically, all the servo jump, for a millisecond, every few seconds, BUT it does not happen if the engine just ticks over, only once I bring the revs up.

If the weather is good tomorrow, I will try I video it.

 

[Tony]

This could be a vibration issue with teh gyro. The 3GX is not really that nitro friendly. IMO, if you have the cash, I would scoop up an Ikon or AR7200BX if you can. The BX only if you are DSMX or DSM2 that is.

 

[Al.]

Hi Tony.

The down side of losing the 3GX is I also then lose the APS. So I've come up with a bad plan. Ive order the following.

1 New Electronic unit for the GT15HZ, this from Japan, so will take 2 weeks.

Also

2 Ive ordered a Helibug 700n conversion kit, with a Zenoah G290RC engine from USA

Here the plan.. And don't tell the wife !

If after fitting the new conversion, I still get the issues, I will change the 3GX to Bavarian Demon 3SX or something similar.

Then buy an Align 450 electric and stick the APS in that or just sell the APS.

As for the OS Gt15HZ I think I will just sell it on.

The down side, of spending this extra cash, is something has to go, so i'm going to offer a deal to the Aeroplane guys. (UK)
I've been building a Flair De Havilland Tiger Moth. (£450 Kit) part built to a good standard. This is and old style kit, so don't expect to finish it in a week. Dope & Tissue.

So if any Aero Guy would like this kit, here's the Deal, Donate £50 to RC-Help.com and you can collect it free.

 

[Tony]

One thing I just noticed is the GT15HZ is a gas engine, not nitro. Are you wanting to run gas? If not, look at the OS 105HZ engine. I'm running the OS 55HZ in my 600n and it's a power house. The onlything that would give it more power is going to the HZ-R.

I keep forgetting that you are running the APS. That might just take care of hte issues that I have had with the 3GX, but we will soon find out.

Best of luck on the new parts. Hope it works out for you.