Island Breeze
Senior Rc-Help Member
So did everyone see how he blew me off on the Ikon so smoothly? hahahahahahahahaha
LMAO! I read that... Soon enough you will get one.
Awesome friend you got there Derek.
600 Derek's Align Trex 600e Pro DFC
- Thread starter Derek
- Start date
LMAO! I read that... Soon enough you will get one.
Awesome friend you got there Derek.
Derek
Well-Known Member
Oh wow, I have some questions. I'll number them to, hopefully, make the responses easier.
1. To remove the motor from my Trex 600 Pro DFC, since the motor is mounted on the top of the motor mount (opposite of my 500e), I would actually have to remove the entire motor mount from the frame. Is this correct?
2. Setting the gear mesh. I have a slant main gear and pinion. The setup is very different from my Trex 500e. Since the motor is mounted on top of the motor mount, how is the gear mesh properly set?
3. Battery placement. I'm wanting to adhere the Velcro strips to the battery tray and to my 6s 3700mah lipo's. How would I find out where to mount the batteries on the battery tray for correct CG? Both lipo's, inline with each other, are longer than the battery tray is. It's a bit puzzling.
I think that's all that I have right now. This helicopter is just so much difference in comparison to my 500. There are many things that just blow my mind.
Thanks!
1. To remove the motor from my Trex 600 Pro DFC, since the motor is mounted on the top of the motor mount (opposite of my 500e), I would actually have to remove the entire motor mount from the frame. Is this correct?
2. Setting the gear mesh. I have a slant main gear and pinion. The setup is very different from my Trex 500e. Since the motor is mounted on top of the motor mount, how is the gear mesh properly set?
3. Battery placement. I'm wanting to adhere the Velcro strips to the battery tray and to my 6s 3700mah lipo's. How would I find out where to mount the batteries on the battery tray for correct CG? Both lipo's, inline with each other, are longer than the battery tray is. It's a bit puzzling.
I think that's all that I have right now. This helicopter is just so much difference in comparison to my 500. There are many things that just blow my mind.
Thanks!
Graham Lawrie
Well-Known Member
Hi Derek, I would have thought that gear mesh would be the same no matter the orientation? I always use a piece of paper between the gears to setup the mesh
Tony
Staff member
1. I'm not sure how you would remove the motor. There has to be a way to access it from the bottom. That is the only way to adjust the gear mesh.
2. I would think you would do it the same way as your 500. The mesh still needs to be set exactly the same with the same kind of gap. As stated in 1, you should have a way to adjust the motor from the under side.
3. You will move the batteries around as you are checking for CoG. Once you find the perfect CoG by moving them, then you can put the straps around the battery and secure them in place. Check out Lee's video for more detail on how to check the CoG of a flybarless helicopter.
RC Helicopter CoG Tip - YouTube
2. I would think you would do it the same way as your 500. The mesh still needs to be set exactly the same with the same kind of gap. As stated in 1, you should have a way to adjust the motor from the under side.
3. You will move the batteries around as you are checking for CoG. Once you find the perfect CoG by moving them, then you can put the straps around the battery and secure them in place. Check out Lee's video for more detail on how to check the CoG of a flybarless helicopter.
RC Helicopter CoG Tip - YouTube
Yeah, to do any service on the motor I've always had to remove the motor and mount from the frame then do things. Some upgrade bottom plates have holes and cutouts in them that will let you unscrew/loosen the motor from the mount.
Tony is against the paper method for gear mesh. Basically you want it set so that if you hold the motor or the main gear immobile that the other will have just a very little bit of play motion. Talking less than a mm of play. There needs to be a little bit of play, if there is no play then it needs to be opened up a smidge. Are you having to remove the motor and mount to adjust mesh distance? On the Align helis this is where the KDE upgrade motor mounts can come in handy. The mount is on a rail slide system which lets you just loosen the mount screws on the frame and then slide the motor and mount plate forward and backward. Hopefully, though, with a stock setup, the mesh should be good enough without too much adjustment needed.
Battery CG: use two velcro straps to hold the batteries to the tray and position them. Make sure the canopy is on for final CG setting as it will have a small effect on front weight. Once you get the batteries positioned on the tray, go ahead and use the velcro strips on the tray and batteries and then strap them down again.
Tony is against the paper method for gear mesh. Basically you want it set so that if you hold the motor or the main gear immobile that the other will have just a very little bit of play motion. Talking less than a mm of play. There needs to be a little bit of play, if there is no play then it needs to be opened up a smidge. Are you having to remove the motor and mount to adjust mesh distance? On the Align helis this is where the KDE upgrade motor mounts can come in handy. The mount is on a rail slide system which lets you just loosen the mount screws on the frame and then slide the motor and mount plate forward and backward. Hopefully, though, with a stock setup, the mesh should be good enough without too much adjustment needed.
Battery CG: use two velcro straps to hold the batteries to the tray and position them. Make sure the canopy is on for final CG setting as it will have a small effect on front weight. Once you get the batteries positioned on the tray, go ahead and use the velcro strips on the tray and batteries and then strap them down again.
Derek
Well-Known Member
This is what the motor mount looks like
There are just the four holes to attach the motor to the mount. No room for adjustment. Then, there are the two holes on each side of the mount that have the screws that will come through the frame and tighten to the mount. And again, no room for adjustment. I just thought this was odd. On my 500, the motor mount is slotted so that the motor can be moved forward and backward quite a bit.
Here is the 500 mount:
I'm not in a position to move the motor yet but I read in the Ikon setup that I should remove/disengage the pinion because I will have to run up the throttle.
There are just the four holes to attach the motor to the mount. No room for adjustment. Then, there are the two holes on each side of the mount that have the screws that will come through the frame and tighten to the mount. And again, no room for adjustment. I just thought this was odd. On my 500, the motor mount is slotted so that the motor can be moved forward and backward quite a bit.
Here is the 500 mount:
I'm not in a position to move the motor yet but I read in the Ikon setup that I should remove/disengage the pinion because I will have to run up the throttle.
Part of Ikon setup will be setting the ESC endpoints (it isn't spelled out in the Ikon setup actually, so wehn yuou get to that do a search on here for it or ask and one of us can help you out on it). As far as disengaging the pinion, I think that is more a safety measure. If you remove blades and make sure the blade holders aren't going to hit anything (and no wires dangling near the gears) you will be fine. And you can always pull two motor wires to make sure it doesn't spin up at all. Personally I'd do one of those rather than "disengage" the pinion from the gear, because the pinion can always slip back toward the gear and result in a stripped section of main gear. Better to either pull the wires from the motor connection or anticipate it possibly spinning up and have the blades off the heli and the area safe for it to possibly spin up.
Derek
Well-Known Member
Yes, I agree with you, Paul, that it would be easier to disconnect the motor wires to prevent power to the motor. I also agree with you that I could take the main and tail blades off. No doubt there, at all. However, I'm sure there will be a time that I'll need to replace the main gear (whether from wear or a crash) and I was looking at the helicopter. There is no way at all that I can get to the motor mount screws from underneath the helicopter. There is a bearing block and the main gear is in the way of the screws. That lead me to believe that I would just have to remove the screws from the mount and pull the whole thing out at once. That is what got me curious about the gear mesh.
Since the motor mounts to the motor mount by 4 screws, with no adjustment slots, then the pinion will have no ways for adjustment. The main gear is on the main shaft and the main shaft slides down through two bearing blocks...again with no room for adjustment. It almost seems as if it is just made to fit. I just don't want to "assume".
Since the motor mounts to the motor mount by 4 screws, with no adjustment slots, then the pinion will have no ways for adjustment. The main gear is on the main shaft and the main shaft slides down through two bearing blocks...again with no room for adjustment. It almost seems as if it is just made to fit. I just don't want to "assume".
It should fit pretty well mesh wise. They aren't the only ones to built mesh tolerance into their otherwise hard mounting locations for parts. IF need be, you can always lengthen the motor mount holes in the frame so you can get some adjustment that way. Properly sized drill bit or a dremel with a cutting bit on it would do the trick. Would only need to lengthen them by a mm or 2, though.
EyeStation
Well-Known Member
I believe if you snip a strand or few, but make sure you get solder up to the full wire, you are still good.
I would never snip strands off a 14 gauge wire to fit in a 18 gauge socket though. Keep it realistic. But a good solder flow will compensate for a few lost strands at the connection point.
I would never snip strands off a 14 gauge wire to fit in a 18 gauge socket though. Keep it realistic. But a good solder flow will compensate for a few lost strands at the connection point.
Derek
Well-Known Member
Ok....we have forward progress, lol. Wires and plugs are all soldered and the batteries are mounted to the battery tray with very little effort...it just slides right in like it's suppose to. CG has been located, with the canopy mounted.
Now....I thought I had read, somewhere, that there is a particular order in which the two 6S lipos should be plugged into the Series harness. Once I plug the Series harness into the ESC, I am left with two ends of the harness. One end has two black wires and the other end has a black and red. Is there, in fact, a particular order in which the batteries should be plugged in? Should I plug a battery into the end with the two black wires first or two the end with the red and black.....or...does it actually matter?
Now....I thought I had read, somewhere, that there is a particular order in which the two 6S lipos should be plugged into the Series harness. Once I plug the Series harness into the ESC, I am left with two ends of the harness. One end has two black wires and the other end has a black and red. Is there, in fact, a particular order in which the batteries should be plugged in? Should I plug a battery into the end with the two black wires first or two the end with the red and black.....or...does it actually matter?
Derek
Well-Known Member
Oh! Cool! I could have sworn that I read somewhere that one side needed plugged in before the other. I could also be wrong, too, lol.
I guess as long as I plug in the Rx pack first, that's the important thing.