Quad Derek's New ZMR250 FPV Racing Quad

Tony

Tony

Staff member
Since this is testing, I would go up 25 points. If you are 2.5, then go to 2.75. If it's at 0.0025, then go to 0.00275.

And if you moved the motors, keeping the same rotation they had, that wouldn't really test them. You need to move them so that it changes the rotation. If it start yawing the opposite way, then you know the motors are not all the same. If it keeps going the way it's going, then you know it's in the controller or ESCs.

Give the P gain a go, but only on yaw. The other ones looked like they were right on the edge of being too high which is where you want them.

Don't you have a watt meter? If so, and this is going to be a lot of work, but connect each esc to the meter and see if the readings are the same on all 4 motors. The easiest way to do this is with another ESC (not one on the quad as I assume you are using a PDB and they are all soldered to it). By using a separate ESC, you can test each motor by just plugging the motor into the test ESC and plugging that ESC into the control board. The test ESC will power the control board and if your endpoints are close, you should get a reading where you can compare each one.
 
Derek

Derek

Well-Known Member
Yes, when I moved the motors, I moved front left to right rear, front right to rear left, rear left to front right, rear right to front left and the quad still yaws to the right on punchouts. This would likely rule out that the motors are an issue.

As for using a watt meter, which I do have (the same one that I bought for you), I can do that. I have plenty of spare esc's around here. I'm not using a PDB board. I have a gnarly looking soldered wire harness on this quad. Connecting each motor to a spare esc won't be real difficult, just time consuming because I'd have to unsolder the motors from the esc's. Meaning that I'll have to cut away the zipties that hold the esc's to the arms. Cut open the heat shrink that I used (I removed the clear shrink that came with the Afro's), then unsolder the wires from the esc's. Then, twist the motor wires to the esc wires (using a bit of tape to avoid letting any magic smoke out). Then I can test the motors. Like I said, not difficult, just time consuming, lol.

I did order a small PDB board and I wanted to use it on this quad but it's too big and the mounting holes don't line up. I could have "rigged" it, but it would look like crap. So, I decided to just solder the wires together in a harness. Anyway...I'll get testing the motors. In the end, I'm actually hoping that the problem is with the esc's. I've found some new esc's that are 4S capable, smaller in physical size, and aren't very expensive.

As for the adjustment increments....I can make those changes to the Yaw P, but any test flying is gonna have to wait. It's dark here now and the street lights are pretty dim on my street.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Derek said:
I moved front left to right rear, front right to rear left, rear left to front right, rear right to front left and the quad still yaws to the right on punchouts.
Click to expand...

The way you describe, you are swapping a ccw for a ccw and a cw for a cw. What you need to do is swap a ccw for a cw. In other words, put the right front on the right rear, right rear on the right front, left front on the left rear, and left rear on the left front. If the motors are the issue. swapping them as you did would have no affect since they are still turning the same direction. It will always yaw right. But, if you swap them cw to ccw as I mentioned, and the motors are the issue, then it would yaw left instead.
 
Derek

Derek

Well-Known Member
ok, I see what you are saying. But if I do that, I'll need to get some actual locknuts to hold the props on. Right now, I have self tightening prop nuts that come with the Sunnysky motors.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
I was wondering if you did lol.

For now, just swap the motors and tighten the prop nuts just a little more snug for the test flight. You are going to be flying this quad for maybe 15 seconds before you make a determination on if it's the motors.
 
Derek

Derek

Well-Known Member
ok, this is going to take some time. I'll have to uncover the motor wires, unsolder the wires from the esc's, unscrew each motor, rotate them, screw them down, resolder, recover, add a few zipties, then I'll have to go to a nearby parking lot for some light. The street lights on my street are crap (as if the city can't afford brighter lights, lol).

I'll be back later.

Text me if there is anything further that you may think of while I'm away.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
I think you just need to balance the motor cans. There is far more vibration than that with the props on.
 
Derek

Derek

Well-Known Member
I suppose that's possible. Now, to find info on motor balancing. In all honesty, I've never done it, lol
 
Derek

Derek

Well-Known Member
So, as it has come down to a motor vibe issue, I will try to balance the motor can. I can grab the motors and turn them and they feel real smooth but, in the Motors tab of Cleanflight, motors 2 and 3 have a wicked vibration just below mid stick. Just in case I can't get this resolved by balancing the motors, I have order a whole new set of motors. Hopefully I can get my current motors balanced well and the new ones will just be replacements.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
That is cleanflight. I did the same test on my quad. I flashed my cc3d this morning with cleanflight and did the same test. I didn't get near the vibrations he did. His are off the charts. Then, I put openpilot back on even though OP is nonexistent thanks to one asshat.
 
C

claytonbakerjr

Member
Derek
I too had a Naze setup and this YAW problem.
Can you see the solder points on the ESC's? Check them closely, in my case
I had 2 of 4 new esc's that the solder on the positive terminals spilled over into
the neighboring components. (it was globbed on) I ended up exchanging the escs. Had to go through
9 kinds of hell to prove this to the seller of the esc's but they finally gave in.
Just tossing that out there
 
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