450 Lee's Warp 360
- Thread starter Lee
- Start date
Tony
Staff member
The bolts for those servo arm balls are supposed to be countersunk bolts with a "V" shape to them. That way they fit down inside the balls. Well, they are on the balls that I have put on. If your's are flat, not sure what to say other than get longer bolts maybe. but just the white plastic ones will work fine.
Lee
Well-Known Member
I started the wiring today. Put some cable sheathing over each of the servo wires.
Stuck the Ikon on and put the ESC inside the frame.
I ended up removing some of the shielding as the bend was too tight and put tension on the wires going into the Ikon. This way the wires are relaxed so no vibrations will be transmitted to the Ikon.
Only a couple of my links need adjusting. These reamer tools are very handy.
Now all the wiring is inside the frame, I could finally tighten the motor mount and belt tensioner screws for the final time.
With all 8 screws loose, pull back on the motor mount to tension the drive belt, then tighten the screws to hold the motor in the right place. Then remove one screw at a time place some threadlock on and replace so as not to loose the tension on the mount
The belt should have 3 to 4 mm of movement. Better to be too tight than too loose.
I changed the battery connectors from XT60s to EC3s as that what all my batteries are.
Now i can start with the Ikon set up.
Stuck the Ikon on and put the ESC inside the frame.
I ended up removing some of the shielding as the bend was too tight and put tension on the wires going into the Ikon. This way the wires are relaxed so no vibrations will be transmitted to the Ikon.
Only a couple of my links need adjusting. These reamer tools are very handy.
Now all the wiring is inside the frame, I could finally tighten the motor mount and belt tensioner screws for the final time.
With all 8 screws loose, pull back on the motor mount to tension the drive belt, then tighten the screws to hold the motor in the right place. Then remove one screw at a time place some threadlock on and replace so as not to loose the tension on the mount
The belt should have 3 to 4 mm of movement. Better to be too tight than too loose.
I changed the battery connectors from XT60s to EC3s as that what all my batteries are.
Now i can start with the Ikon set up.
Last edited:
callsign4223
Staff member
EC3 for the win!!!!!(Que the battery connector flame war)
Tony
Staff member
Lee
Well-Known Member
The last stage of the build was to program the IKON. Before i could do that, i had to cut down the tail control rod. Even with the links screwed right in and the servo horn at 90, the tail pitch slider was pushed right over to one side. I trimmed 4mm off the end of the carbon rod. Which as i have found out today, many people have also had to remove 4mm to get the servo 90 and pitch slider centred.
The metal link rod is epoxied in place. To remove it, lightly heat the end with a lighter. This will release the epoxys grip on the carbon rod so you can unscrew it. I trimmed off the 4mm and then rethreaded the rod with epoxy. Now my tail is set up perfectly.
6mm Swash plate levellers are pretty uncommon. So i made one from a 10mm thick piece of G10 cut into a triangle and drilled a 6mm hole though the middle. ( Its great having a friend with a drill press, loads of G10 and Carbon and a CNC machine
)
My Sat cable is a touch long But i wound it round the landing gear supports.
Placed my Sat under the boom clamp
So shes ready for the Maiden I would explain how i set up the IKON, but it is so simple to follow i think its not needed.
Personally I think the landing gear could be bigger, with a wider stance. It looks too small for the Heli.
I have really enjoyed this build, and look forward to getting it in the air when the rain and wind stops.
So to summarise.
The Pros:
A very easy to follow Manual.
Parts are well labelled.
Low parts count, very easy to build and maintain.
Plenty of room for wiring.
All intricate parts now assembled in the factory.
Compass have addressed all the know issues that came up in the first batch.
My first dealings with them and i'm very happy with the out come.
The Cons:
4 Blade grip hub Screws instead of 2 hub screws and 2 Blade grip screws
Servo screws not long enough to use Carbon supports
Carbon tail control rod too long even on shortest setting. Need to reduce by 4mm.
Thanks for taking the time to read my thread.
See you next time with some flying up dates.
All the best
Lee
The metal link rod is epoxied in place. To remove it, lightly heat the end with a lighter. This will release the epoxys grip on the carbon rod so you can unscrew it. I trimmed off the 4mm and then rethreaded the rod with epoxy. Now my tail is set up perfectly.
6mm Swash plate levellers are pretty uncommon. So i made one from a 10mm thick piece of G10 cut into a triangle and drilled a 6mm hole though the middle. ( Its great having a friend with a drill press, loads of G10 and Carbon and a CNC machine
)
My Sat cable is a touch long
But i wound it round the landing gear supports.Placed my Sat under the boom clamp
So shes ready for the Maiden
I would explain how i set up the IKON, but it is so simple to follow i think its not needed.
Personally I think the landing gear could be bigger, with a wider stance. It looks too small for the Heli.
I have really enjoyed this build, and look forward to getting it in the air when the rain and wind stops.
So to summarise.
The Pros:
A very easy to follow Manual.
Parts are well labelled.
Low parts count, very easy to build and maintain.
Plenty of room for wiring.
All intricate parts now assembled in the factory.
Compass have addressed all the know issues that came up in the first batch.
My first dealings with them and i'm very happy with the out come.
The Cons:
4 Blade grip hub Screws instead of 2 hub screws and 2 Blade grip screws
Servo screws not long enough to use Carbon supports
Carbon tail control rod too long even on shortest setting. Need to reduce by 4mm.
Thanks for taking the time to read my thread.
See you next time with some flying up dates.
All the best
Lee