700 My New T-Rex 700X Build
- Thread starter Heliman450
- Start date
PLANETGETLOW
Banned
My Kontronic has that also but a secondary is always a nice failsafe. I can power up JUST the electronics and configure. Not sure the HW can do that, it can't with the new HW 120 I just bought
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
You shouldnt use a battery and a BEC unless you use some form of device to isolate between the two (a suitably rated Diode will do it but you can get propitiatory gizmos like the Optipower Ultraguard). Personally I just keep to simple and use the BEC on it's own.
No, the HW doesnt have facility to just power the Rx/servos and not the motor. I could see the use for it but it's not really a big deal as all you need to do in disconnect two of the motor bullets to achieve the same end. Kontronik ESC's are out of my price range I'm afraid, though i run a couple of their motors that I picked up second hand.
No, the HW doesnt have facility to just power the Rx/servos and not the motor. I could see the use for it but it's not really a big deal as all you need to do in disconnect two of the motor bullets to achieve the same end. Kontronik ESC's are out of my price range I'm afraid, though i run a couple of their motors that I picked up second hand.
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
Great to read the discussions, that's why I'm spending the extra time to prepare so much stuff to publish here. Originally, my 550 had a separate battery for the electronics and my local heli expert http://www.modellsport.ch/ advised against it for just the reason that Steve mentions, simplicity. I use the battery along with the switch only to supply the Spirit Pro during programming and don't connect the flight battery until it's necessary and then fall back on the disconnection of the motor supply for safety.
Incidentally, I also have a cut-down pair of blades for measuring the pitch so the heli doesn't have the flight blades during the process. Another safety procedure I adopted after once making a mistake and having it spool up in the shop. I have the heli clamped to the table and was able to duck under the blades and disconnect the battery before the motor reached full speed. Even so, it was a pamper moment, I can assure you. The following two photos show how I'd need to modify the motor supply wires to bring the connections to an accessible point outside the frame.
The picture to the left shows how the cables are located behind the frame and not accessible 
The right hand one shows where they'd be if extended.
Does anyone foresee any problems with extending the motor cables to reach this point?
I intend to put together another sequence of the cable run pictures but haven't had chance to do it yet due to other activities. Of course, I could just go ahead, finish the heli and publish a photo but we'd all miss out on this interesting part.
Bye for now!
Great to read the discussions, that's why I'm spending the extra time to prepare so much stuff to publish here. Originally, my 550 had a separate battery for the electronics and my local heli expert http://www.modellsport.ch/ advised against it for just the reason that Steve mentions, simplicity. I use the battery along with the switch only to supply the Spirit Pro during programming and don't connect the flight battery until it's necessary and then fall back on the disconnection of the motor supply for safety.
Incidentally, I also have a cut-down pair of blades for measuring the pitch so the heli doesn't have the flight blades during the process. Another safety procedure I adopted after once making a mistake and having it spool up in the shop. I have the heli clamped to the table and was able to duck under the blades and disconnect the battery before the motor reached full speed. Even so, it was a pamper moment, I can assure you. The following two photos show how I'd need to modify the motor supply wires to bring the connections to an accessible point outside the frame.
The picture to the left shows how the cables are located behind the frame and not accessible The right hand one shows where they'd be if extended.Does anyone foresee any problems with extending the motor cables to reach this point?
I intend to put together another sequence of the cable run pictures but haven't had chance to do it yet due to other activities. Of course, I could just go ahead, finish the heli and publish a photo but we'd all miss out on this interesting part.
Bye for now!
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Steve,
This picture shows the challenge of turning it to put the ESC and motor wires towards each other. There's no slack to disconnect and it's the ESC wires that need shortening.
This is the orientation shown in the instructions, which conveniently for them, don't show the cables.
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the picture. It still leaves the connections behind the frame, although there's probably little chance of movement on the motor side and the hole in the frame is well placed to support the connection with a finger when making/breaking it. I'll give it a try as it means three less joints to solder when I get round to the Supra X conversion although I probably wouldn't use them on these joints, merely move the existing further along as per the right hand photo in #24.
Either way, I can fit the Velcro as I'm certain I won't be using a side-mounted arrangement for my 700X mainly due to the size of the ESC.
Thanks for the picture. It still leaves the connections behind the frame, although there's probably little chance of movement on the motor side and the hole in the frame is well placed to support the connection with a finger when making/breaking it. I'll give it a try as it means three less joints to solder when I get round to the Supra X conversion although I probably wouldn't use them on these joints, merely move the existing further along as per the right hand photo in #24.
Either way, I can fit the Velcro as I'm certain I won't be using a side-mounted arrangement for my 700X mainly due to the size of the ESC.
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Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
The following three photos show what looks like being a satisfactory option. I intend to remove the shrink-wrap on the motor cables to give some more movement and may even put the black cable through to the other side of the tray. That leaves two for disconnection and makes it easier to hold them as they are currently bunched into a triangular arrangement, which is too big for the hole on that side.
The following two show my preferred routing for the servo cables rather than running them inside under the drive gears and then back up again. Another plus is not using the extensions, which are required to reach the gyro. As you can see in the last photo, the connections come quite neatly to the gyro mounting point on the side tray.
Time will tell if this remains as the final arrangement. Maybe I'll go for the earlier option of extending the motor cables
The following three photos show what looks like being a satisfactory option. I intend to remove the shrink-wrap on the motor cables to give some more movement and may even put the black cable through to the other side of the tray. That leaves two for disconnection and makes it easier to hold them as they are currently bunched into a triangular arrangement, which is too big for the hole on that side.
The following two show my preferred routing for the servo cables rather than running them inside under the drive gears and then back up again. Another plus is not using the extensions, which are required to reach the gyro. As you can see in the last photo, the connections come quite neatly to the gyro mounting point on the side tray.
Time will tell if this remains as the final arrangement. Maybe I'll go for the earlier option of extending the motor cables
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi all, a short series of photos to update on the latest stage of my build. Here goes.....................
Photo #1
Photo #2 
Photo #3 
Photo #1 shows my current most favoured position. If you look closely you can see the black ESC wire curled nicely alongside the frame and the servo wires ready to be fitted to the gyro if I decide one the Align #2 position from the instructions.
Photo #2 shows the alternative. There is actually the possibility of pulling the wires back a little. It depends upon the dimensions of the Bavarian Demon Axon gyro, which is my current target. I may give up on this if it proves too long until its release.
Photo #3 is my guess at where the ESC fan connection is supposed to go as there's nothing in the instructions that I've found yet. What's concerning me most right now is the provision of three pins and only two cables. Any ideas what 'P' is for?
Photo #3 also shows the blue and red cables from the motor on the right side of the frame. Dividing the three between right and left gives a much easier connect/disconnect possibility.
Photo #4
Photo #5 
Photos #4/5 show the tail gearbox fitted and the parts for my next stage of fitting the big sticky-out bit to the body. Shouldn't take too long when I get started
Photo #6
So what's this for? Looks like a key of some sort to me.
By the way, am I overloading your desire for lots of photos yet?
Photo #1
Photo #2 Photo #3 Photo #1 shows my current most favoured position. If you look closely you can see the black ESC wire curled nicely alongside the frame and the servo wires ready to be fitted to the gyro if I decide one the Align #2 position from the instructions.
Photo #2 shows the alternative. There is actually the possibility of pulling the wires back a little. It depends upon the dimensions of the Bavarian Demon Axon gyro, which is my current target. I may give up on this if it proves too long until its release.
Photo #3 is my guess at where the ESC fan connection is supposed to go as there's nothing in the instructions that I've found yet. What's concerning me most right now is the provision of three pins and only two cables. Any ideas what 'P' is for?
Photo #3 also shows the blue and red cables from the motor on the right side of the frame. Dividing the three between right and left gives a much easier connect/disconnect possibility.
Photo #4
Photo #5 Photos #4/5 show the tail gearbox fitted and the parts for my next stage of fitting the big sticky-out bit to the body. Shouldn't take too long when I get started
Photo #6
So what's this for? Looks like a key of some sort to me.By the way, am I overloading your desire for lots of photos yet?
PLANETGETLOW
Banned
Hi all, a short series of photos to update on the latest stage of my build. Here goes.....................
Photos #4/5 show the tail gearbox fitted and the parts for my next stage of fitting the big sticky-out bit to the body. Shouldn't take too long when I get started
Photo #6 View attachment 16862 So what's this for? Looks like a key of some sort to me.
By the way, am I overloading your desire for lots of photos yet?
If I had to guess it would be to adjust the eyes for the ball links
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Ah! Ha! Strange they don't seem to have it in the tools required list. I tapped out the ball links as the rod threads didn't do the job, and didn't need it anyway. Seeing the amount of waste that came out, I'm not surprised how difficult it is to screw them on without first tapping. The key should really have been in the first packs along with the links or am I just being too logical?
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Tony, sorry that my project is a winter one and I've been dragging my heels by your standards
this is only my second full build from a box so I want it to last and the end result to be a long-lasting 'friend'.Here are a few photos of my weekend showing that I'm not slacking. We had a great event at our club, although all those fixed wing things with propellers rather than 'whirley birds'.
The lovely machine in pictures 2 & 3 hit the deck with a really nasty thud. The pilot is a guest from another club and he's insured (so he said) he took it very well I thought.
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Smoggie
Well-Known Member
I've never heard of RC model insurance that covers your own accidental (crash) damage. Standard RC insurance as i have from the BMFA covers only 3rd party damage (i.e. damage to other people /property). If that guy has found an insurance company crazy enough to offer 'fully comprehensive' RC insurance at an affordable price then I'd like to know who.. i'll take some of that!
PS.. As for your ESC fan. You have it correctly wired as pictured. The port doubles as the programming power and/or fan header. For fan use the third (data) wire isn't necessary, the fan only needs + and - power connections.
PS.. As for your ESC fan. You have it correctly wired as pictured. The port doubles as the programming power and/or fan header. For fan use the third (data) wire isn't necessary, the fan only needs + and - power connections.
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Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Steve, I overheard his conversation in the clubhouse and had similar thoughts myself. Maybe he has a rich uncle or someone supporting him
. I'll make some enquiries around our guys he was talking to. As the organiser from our guests maybe he was just putting a brave face on his shock. Whatever the situation, I was feeling his grief for him, it was in so many pieces.Where did you pick up the info on the fan? I'd like to use it for myself so I don't need to ask all the time
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it was a shame about the crash, it looked like a really nice plane. it is part of the hobby but that doesnt make it any easier to take when it happens.
As for the fan.. Mainly based on my own personal experience, I have 5 Hobbywing ESC's with the same fan connection. The Hobbywing manual appears to be the same as Align's, it actually makes no mention of the fan... But trust me, it will work perfectly just as you have it.
This is the Hobbywing manual: www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/Platinum130A-130AOPTOen.pdf
As for the fan.. Mainly based on my own personal experience, I have 5 Hobbywing ESC's with the same fan connection. The Hobbywing manual appears to be the same as Align's, it actually makes no mention of the fan... But trust me, it will work perfectly just as you have it.
This is the Hobbywing manual: www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/Platinum130A-130AOPTOen.pdf
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Smoggie
Well-Known Member
Phil,
How is the 700X coming along? The dealers here were having a Halloween sale and my remaining willpower crumbled, my 700X 'Super Combo' arrives on Tuesday
I got it complete with the BeastX Plus, but that will be going on eBay. I've got a spare Vbar Silverline which I'll use on the 700X. It will be interesting to compare build notes.
Steve
How is the 700X coming along? The dealers here were having a Halloween sale and my remaining willpower crumbled, my 700X 'Super Combo' arrives on Tuesday
I got it complete with the BeastX Plus, but that will be going on eBay. I've got a spare Vbar Silverline which I'll use on the 700X. It will be interesting to compare build notes.Steve
PLANETGETLOW
Banned
I see a few of these selling on forums BNF for as low as $1300 (US) now. Tells me alot of people had impulse buys.
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Phil,
How is the 700X coming along? The dealers here were having a Halloween sale and my remaining willpower crumbled, my 700X 'Super Combo' arrives on Tuesday
Steve
Hi Steve, nice one there! I doubt that there's much for me to help you with on your build and I'm sure it will be in the air long before mine.
It's funny you should ask about mine. I just got home from the shop and managed to do a bit more starting with the tail. First off, I did some work on my 550 after fitting a new tail rotor assembly. The blade holder assembly was showing some play and I reckon I could actually see it whilst hovering last time out. It's ready to go again now.
After that, I switched over to the same end of the 700X, my word, the tail rotor assembly is nice and shiny
It's all loose assembled, I prefer that after the 550 being all gunged up
Careful with the two larger screws, the two smaller ones on the yoke need to be out for access.All screws glued up and the assembly ready to fit.
Next job the torque tube. 
I left it to set after gluing the support bearings to the tube. The pieces of masking tape are located at the point of gluing.
Not much to do now and the air frame is ready. I'll leave the tail off as it's much easier to handle on the bench. I'll be visiting Hugo this week to order up the Axon and buy the receiver, Supra X connectors and anything else that takes my fancy I hope I can resist the urge to buy the Velos-Rotors 880