Quad Something I am throwing together.... 25% bigger....

[Tasajara]

I guess if most ppl see what I fly on here know I like spider quads...
That said... here is one I am building from scratch that is 25% bigger frame than my others.

The first thing I started with was my motor mounts.
BlueSkyRC.com sell some for a Mega Quad that use 1/2 booms. So I though I would give them a try.
Here are a few pics, you can see the size difference over the standard motor mount.
I cut the landing gear off of the mount because I was going to use T-Rex 600 gear cut in half.



Now onto the frame plates... Made a little pattern to go by and started cutting.




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Here are my top and bottom frame plates...


Now I have to lay out some guide blocks for my boom to slide in once the 2 sides are glued together.



And cut a few boom sticks, in the pics the booms were a bit longer at first.
But once I played around with the size I wanted I ended up cutting them down to
10" on front and 15" on the rear.
Here are a few more pics.



I will have 3mm allen bolts holding the booms in place along with a few wood screws.

 

[Tony]

Dude, that thing looks sick. Can't wait to see it in the air!

 

[Tasajara]

Here is what I have up to this point...



Now it is time to add some landing gear...

T-Rex 600 gear cut in half and sanded flat seems to work pretty good,
plus they are pretty cheap...



Here you can see how much bigger it is that one of my other spider quads...



I also have a few new motors to play with.
I will be using the Avroto M2814-11S Short Shaft 770KV Brushless Motor


The T-Motors you see in the pick will be for a New BlueSkyRC xRotor IFrame Clear View FPV
coming out very soon.

As far as esc's go I will be using a 20amp that are flashed with SimonK's Firmware for Multicopters.

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Dude, that thing looks sick. Can't wait to see it in the air!

Thanks... I can't wait either... Going to try out a whole new set up, along with all new FPV gear.
Just got my $45 Sony cam in today, i have to say for $45 it does look very good.
All I am waiting on now is my new FPV RX for the Diversity system.

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Oh Yeah.... one other thing as you see it here right now it weighs in at 15.5oz
The Avroto motors I have will produce 30oz thrust on 3s with a APC 10x4.7 SF
Even more on 4s. This puts me at about 7.5 lbs it would be able to lift of which about half is usable.
I bought some 10"x5" Carbon Fiber slow fly props I think will do the trick.

 

[breeze400]

Looks like its going to be a good build. I just got home and my package is here! Looks cool!

 

[Lee]

Nice Spider. Reminds me i need to finish my H quad.

 

[Tasajara]

Looks like its going to be a good build. I just got home and my package is here! Looks cool!

Glad it got there just fine....and you are happy with it....Very little setup to do

 

[Tasajara]

Ok got a little more done on the quad...little of the wiring

This may be old news to some but it may help a few others
This is some of things I do when soldering up my wiring harness.
Tinning wires must be done before any solder joints are made.
Then I use strands of wire to hold the 4 esc wires together along with a Tie wrap.
I have the metal helping hands, but I prefer the cheap way. Two clothespins glued to a strip of wood.
The wood want transfer heat so all your heat will stay on the solder joint.
You can do the wires in pairs, just which works best for you.

Here are a few pics


My cheap helping hands...



Wire I used to wrap the 4 wires together.



Wires tinned and wrapped together ready to solder





Wires soldered... and excess wire trimmed from the wrap.


at this point I will cut the tie wrap off.

Finished product...



One other thing I do is cut away the heat shrink from my esc's.
Think about it, if the esc has a heat sink why not let the air get to it.
I just think the exposed heat sink will cool better... just a thought..

 

[Tasajara]

Time to wire the motors....
I like to do direct solder, without using the 3mm bullet connectors. It's less weight and better connection.
Once you test one motor you can wire the rest for correct rotation.










Here are a few pics of the finished Spider Quad

Sorry the pics are not that great it was very cloudy today.

This Quad is ready to fly.... as you can tell I try to keep all my wires out of site.
It just looks a lot cleaner to me.



This is one of the MultiWii control boards I build for my Quads.
Also I program my board to use one PPM sum signal.
That way I only have to use one servo lead from my RX and can control 8 ch.
another way to cut down on wire clutter





Here is my Quad with a light ply adapter plate mounted to protect
the main control board





Here you can tell how much bigger it is over one of my standard size spider quads.

 

[jabbey71]

Nice pics Tasa, I appreciate what tips and help that you provide for me. Thanks

 

[Tony]

I have the metal helping hands, but I prefer the cheap way. Two clothespins glued to a strip of wood.
The wood want transfer heat so all your heat will stay on the solder joint.

I would like to add something here. When doing batteries, motors or the like, you WANT to get rid of the heat as soon as possible. Same thing with the wires. The hotter the wire gets, the easier it is for the solder to "wick" up the wire turning the wire into a solid wire and non flexable. The iron will put the required heat into the joint and you want to do it with enough heat and pressure so you only contact the joint for a second or LESS, never more.

 

[Tasajara]

I would like to add something here. When doing batteries, motors or the like, you WANT to get rid of the heat as soon as possible. Same thing with the wires. The hotter the wire gets, the easier it is for the solder to "wick" up the wire turning the wire into a solid wire and non flexable. The iron will put the required heat into the joint and you want to do it with enough heat and pressure so you only contact the joint for a second or LESS, never more.

Nice tip... You are very right Tony, you don't want the heat to travel to far....

The use of wood is best for me on multi wire connections when connecting 4 or more wires.
But on that note about batteries.
I always put the male and female battery connectors together when soldering to my battery. I have one connector with short wires covered with heat shrink to help draw heat away form the battery pack.
As far as the motor goes I use high heat to heat it quick. A low temp soldering iron will end up heating the whole wire before the joint can solder. Then I may grab the joint with needle nose pliers to help draw
the heat away after the joint is made.