trainrider06
Active Member
This is true, see what I can do
450 Tail twitch
- Thread starter trainrider06
- Start date
trainrider06
Active Member
No it's the Yep esc Neil, I'll try and do a video of it either tonight or tomorrow...
holtneil
Active Member
Hi the important thing they dont tell you is, run at full throttle but the battery must only be 4 to 4.1 volt a cell , this gives the governor room to adjust when you have the main blades on and a full battery
Once you store this you never need to do it again it will store max RPM in the chip set
Once you store this you never need to do it again it will store max RPM in the chip set
trainrider06
Active Member
I'll check my settings on the esc, was going to shoot video of it misbehaving but been raining here. If nothing else will take her up in garage to get video...
D.O.G.
Goblin 380 Supporter
Hey there Trainrider06. I've been using the yep 40/45a esc for awhile. Since I purchased the Xnova 2618 XTS series for my Gaui X3, I decided to purchase the HobbyWing Platinum 50a V3 esc. That combination of motor and esc, the X3 is awesome machine. I'm planning to get the HW 100a Platinum Pro V3 for my 500. Sure the HW ESC is more expensive then the YEP but like Tony mention to me awhile back ...not to go cheesy when it comes to electronics... So I try to save for better quailty electronics.
heli-maniac
New Member
Do you Know The yep is a clone of the YGE esc That is way better then a Hobby wing esc
And what I have seen on other forums is the gov on the hobby wing dose not work well ( just what I have read ) Most using them use a built in gov in their FBL units .
I have never had a Hobby wing esc and dont think I ever will . Have run the YEP 100a on my 550 for over 2 years now and have never had a problem out of it or its Gov
Ran the Yep 45a on the warp Helis I had work the same as my 550 . There is not a thing wrong with the YEP esc besides it being a clone
D.O.G.
Goblin 380 Supporter
Yeah that's true about the YEP being a clone version of YEG but I couldn't afford it. At the time being, Hobbyking didn't have 60a or 45a YEP in stock when I was looking for a new ESC. I don't use the gov mode on any of my helis so the HW ESC works fine for me beside what people say and just wanted to try something else. I wasn't saying that the YEP is not a good ESC. I just through it out their for trainrider06. There's many brands out their to choose from. Just find one that you like and works.
heli-maniac
New Member
Well its all Just cool guy stuff to me . I just use what works
Back to the tail twitch .
This is a Fly bar Heli not a lot going to make the tail do this
I can only think 3 maybe 4 things that will do this seeing he said its butter smooth
1 Servo not up to the job ( He has tried a new servo ) Still is the servo good for the job
2 voltage to the servo
3 Tail blade pitch
4 Gyro ( He has tried another Gyro ) But how is it mounted Is it using the metal vibe plate
Back to the tail twitch .
This is a Fly bar Heli not a lot going to make the tail do this
I can only think 3 maybe 4 things that will do this seeing he said its butter smooth
1 Servo not up to the job ( He has tried a new servo ) Still is the servo good for the job
2 voltage to the servo
3 Tail blade pitch
4 Gyro ( He has tried another Gyro ) But how is it mounted Is it using the metal vibe plate
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trainrider06
Active Member
Yes my tail control rod, pitch slider all swing free and easy.
The servo's 1 a DS520, seemed to work fine on servo tester, and on the heli, the Futaba DS9257 the same in both cases.
Do not know the V to the servo...
My blade pitch is centered, the Quark does recommend I think 6-8 degrees pre pitch on the blades, but out of 3 different heli's 2 450's, 1 500 I have always just centered them with no problems.
The Spartan Quark recommends using the steel plate with a 500 series heli.
Have never used it with any 450's.
I had thought that maybe somewhere along the drive line something was hitching on it, maybe under stress....I don't know, grasping at straws here I guess...
Yeah D.O.G, I hear the HW platinum is a really nice esc/gov also.
Was actually leaning toward that, then good ol Neil recommended the YEP to me.
So I use it on all my 450's simply because I have the program card lol.
My 500 I use the Castle Ice 75a.
murankar
Staff member
if you want to trade blows about internal governors on the escs then scorpion and castle should be added to the crappy ones. Now if you add the castle esc with the extra wire for external gov with a vbar then your golden for days.
Back to the issue with governors. Yes you have to tune the tail before adding in the governor. Gov gains can affect your tail performance and will cause you to chase down your tail gains. So turn off the gov if it is on and get the tail straight before you move on. As for a sequence for tuning you should get the heli mostly stable in the air then getthe tail tuned in as much as you can. Go back and finish the head tuning so you can actually fly the darn thing. Once all that is done dial in the tail based on your flying skill.
Now for flybared helis get your sub trims dialed in on the head so it will hover fairly well. Next have the heli in rate mode and work out the mechanical setup so the tail does not drift or close to not drifting. This will give your gyro the best starting point for head hold. You want to avoid sub trim as much as possible when dealing with a tail gyro. Once your tail is locked in as close as possible then go into head hold and see how the heli acts. Some of the kicking can be caused by the gains in the tail. Usually you see this during the loading and unloading of the head. This can be solved with fbl units because they offer you the PID settings to further adjust your tune. I don't know much about your gyro so I do not know what there is for tuning options.
Back to the issue with governors. Yes you have to tune the tail before adding in the governor. Gov gains can affect your tail performance and will cause you to chase down your tail gains. So turn off the gov if it is on and get the tail straight before you move on. As for a sequence for tuning you should get the heli mostly stable in the air then getthe tail tuned in as much as you can. Go back and finish the head tuning so you can actually fly the darn thing. Once all that is done dial in the tail based on your flying skill.
Now for flybared helis get your sub trims dialed in on the head so it will hover fairly well. Next have the heli in rate mode and work out the mechanical setup so the tail does not drift or close to not drifting. This will give your gyro the best starting point for head hold. You want to avoid sub trim as much as possible when dealing with a tail gyro. Once your tail is locked in as close as possible then go into head hold and see how the heli acts. Some of the kicking can be caused by the gains in the tail. Usually you see this during the loading and unloading of the head. This can be solved with fbl units because they offer you the PID settings to further adjust your tune. I don't know much about your gyro so I do not know what there is for tuning options.
trainrider06
Active Member
Well I am not running a governor on this heli, the rain has finally let up around here, will try and get some film of this twitchy pain.
trainrider06
Active Member
ok i don't know if you all can see it or not, but there is a little twitch here and there....
Tail tick - YouTube
Tail tick - YouTube
Lee
Well-Known Member
It was difficult to see, but to me it looks more like a slow waggle than a twitch.
Is there any play in the tail control system?
Check things like.
Tail grips having lateral,or vertical play, on the tail hub.
Ball links, and pitch slider arms, for excessive play.
These can cause tail blade pitch change, without the servo moving.
If it was working before with no issues, then it more likely mechanical.
But if not, you can try this.
Up the gain in the gyro if possible, until you get that fast wag, then back it off.
Is there any play in the tail control system?
Check things like.
Tail grips having lateral,or vertical play, on the tail hub.
Ball links, and pitch slider arms, for excessive play.
These can cause tail blade pitch change, without the servo moving.
If it was working before with no issues, then it more likely mechanical.
But if not, you can try this.
Up the gain in the gyro if possible, until you get that fast wag, then back it off.
trainrider06
Active Member
Yes it's hart to see, because it's well like a twitch, or flick probably does it every couple seconds or so.
Yes this particular heli I had purchased used, tore it down put what electrics I wanted and rebuilt using new head bearings new TT tail/ bearings/shaft/boom, gear drive forward to name a few.
Everything in the tail section, pitch slider, blade grips, it all is solid.
Would a cyclic servo possibly cause this? I replaced one of them (DS430's because it had some jitters to it.
I hadn't noticed any of the others affected, but who knows....maybe I have another one doing it under load or something.
I'll try fiddling with the gains again, right now I think gains are at -25-28.
Yes this particular heli I had purchased used, tore it down put what electrics I wanted and rebuilt using new head bearings new TT tail/ bearings/shaft/boom, gear drive forward to name a few.
Everything in the tail section, pitch slider, blade grips, it all is solid.
Would a cyclic servo possibly cause this? I replaced one of them (DS430's because it had some jitters to it.
I hadn't noticed any of the others affected, but who knows....maybe I have another one doing it under load or something.
I'll try fiddling with the gains again, right now I think gains are at -25-28.
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heli-maniac
New Member
Looks like it needs more tail blade pitch Kinda hard to see . did see the tail bounce up and down on spool up
so how many TT bearings are you running in the boom
so how many TT bearings are you running in the boom
trainrider06
Active Member
I'm only running the one bearing in the TT tail super.
It's hard to see but in a couple of frames you can see it give a little twitch.
It's hard to see but in a couple of frames you can see it give a little twitch.
heli-maniac
New Member
I Ran 2 on my pro when I had it seems to help with vibes in the drive train
Also is there in play in the drive train . Hold the auto gear and see if the tail will turn back and forth . it should be very little move ment
Also is there in play in the drive train . Hold the auto gear and see if the tail will turn back and forth . it should be very little move ment