Flight Controllers Omnibus F4 Betaflight Setup

Tony

Staff member
What's up everyone! I FINALLY sat down and fired up the camera and the screen recording software to shoot the Betaflight setup video on the Omnibus F4 Flight Controller. I have installed this FC on FrankenQuad and in this video, I show you everything I did to it to get it ready for a maiden flight. I have already technically done the maiden flight, but we can always do a "remaiden" right? lol.

If you are wanting to setup a flight controller, this video should walk you through all of the steps required to get it in the air. I did not do anything to the PID's in this video, in fact, I didn't even go into the PID menu on this board. First step in setting these up is to get things working, go out and fly it and see if changes need to be made. If you have any kind of oscillations, then you will go into the PID menu and set those up. More on that in another video.

As always, questions, comments or suggestions, post them below! I have included all of the links I mention in the video plus a few more below the video in this post.


Omnibus F4 Flight Controller: Omnibus F4 BetaFlight 3.2.0 OSD STM32F405RGT6 Flight Controller for RC Drone FPV Racing 30.5X30.5MM
Lipo Battery: ACE TATTU 14.8V 1550mAh 75C 4S 1P Lipo Battery XT60 Plug for Skylark M4-FPV250 Mini Shredder 200
Aomway Commander Goggles - Aomway Commander Goggles V1 FPV 2D 3D 40CH 5.8G Support HD Port DVR Headtracker For RC Drone
Flight Controller Beeper - 5 PCS Super Loud 5V Active Alarm Buzzer Beeper Tracker 9*5.5mm for RC MultiRotor FPV Racing Drone
Lisam LS-210 Frame Kit: Lisam LS-210 210mm Carbon Fiber Frame Kit Mini Quadcopter
4x Racerstar Brushless Motor: 4X Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2600KV 2-4S Brushless Motor Purple For 210 X220 250 280 for RC Drone
1xRacerstar Brushless Motor: Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2600KV 2-4S Brushless Motor Purple For 220 250 280 RC Drone FPV Racing
Eachine Stack-X 4 in 1: Eachine Stack-X F4 Flytower F4 FC Built-in VTX OSD 1080P DVR 4 In 1 35A Dshot600 ESC for RC Drone FPV Racing
Stack-X ESC Only: Eachine Stack-X F4 Flytower Spare Part 35A 4 In 1 ESC 2-6S BLHeli_S Dshot600 Ready For RC Drone FPV Racing
RunCam Split 2: RunCam Split 2 FOV 130 Degree 1080P/60fps HD Recording Plus WDR FPV Camera NTSC/PAL Switchable
Video Transmitter: Eachine TS5823L 5.8G 200mw 40CH Raceband Mini FPV Transmitter Skyzone Boscam Upgraded
Aomway Antenna: AOMWAY 5.8G 3dBi RP-SMA Male Four Lobe RHCP VTx/VRx FPV Antenna

Support This Channel - https://www.Patreon.com/RcHelp
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
Hey Tony. Another great video. I seen some other videos saying that they use uart#1 on this FC and you are using uart#3. What's the difference? The reason I'm asking because I'm having problems with powering the FC. Everything works fine on the PC til I plug the battery in to calibrate the esc and the FC disconnect from betaflight and my RX, DSMX RX, light goes dim and flashes dim. It seem like it looking for a signal. As soon as I unplug the battery, the betaflight connects and it's working fine. I was thinking maybe me having my set to uart#1 and yours set to uart#3 could be the problem. Can you show me your FC with the PDB plugged into uart#3. Here's what mine looks like. I have the Kensun PDB . The one on top is the littlebee 4 in 1 esc. Where would I plug that harness from the 4 in 1 into the omnibus FC if I use that? IMG_2537.JPG
 

Tony

Staff member
Why did I use UART3? Because RX3 was closer to the 3.3 volt pad than RX1 or RX6. That is the only reason. Cleaner wiring with less stretching out of the wires.

In the picture below, you can see on the bottom, that is my satellite receiver wiring. As you see, I have it in the 3.3, Ground and RX3 ports. But also as you can see, the RX1 port has solder in it and I can't remember why. So maybe trying UART3 is worth a shot.

IMG_0872.JPG

In this picture, you can see the under side of the flight controller. I am showing this because of the yellow wire coming out of the plug on the right side. This is the 5 volt power for the FC.

IMG_0873.JPG

In this picture, you can see my PDB and that same yellow wire is going to a 5 volt pad. The yellow wire going to the left is the video signal wire going to the VTX.

IMG_0874.JPG

Below the PDB is my ESC which does not have a PDB integrated into it, hence why I'm using the separate PDB. My battery plugs into the ESC, then I am running wifes from the ESC to the PDB to power the PDB. From there, I'm running the 5 volt wire from the PDB to the FC to power it, and I'm also running wires from the PDB to the RunCam Split 2 to power it. The Split is receiving 12 volts though.

Your issue sounds like a ground issue. Make sure everything has a common ground and that everything is connected to everything else via ground. If they do not share a common ground, then there can be issues.

Unfortunately I can't see much in your picture since it is so far away, but I hope my pictures help you out. If not, get some close up pictures of your setup and I will have a look
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
I thank you much for the reply Tony :). First I noticed that your FC looks a little different then the one I'm going to show you. I'm using pins and your not. I have heard direct soldering is the way to go. I have 3 of everything so I will solder one of them direct like yours and see what happens. Til then Here's some close up of my set up. Both quads are wired the same to keep it simple. The red one is my 180, white is my 210 and the FC/PDB picture is the set up that I have on both without the esc signal wires connecting to the FC and the pos./neg. of the esc not soldered to the PDB. The top of the PDB that has the small pads located between the two large pad is where I solder my +/- for the vtx. 12 volt. I hope this will help. I need it :(. IMG_2538.JPG IMG_2539.JPG IMG_2540.JPG
 

Tony

Staff member
Well, one thing I notice is you are powering the FC with 12 volts and not 5. This could be an issue. However, I can't find a manual for this FC.
 

Tony

Staff member
Yup, just found a schematic of the FC and those pins are only regulated for 5 volts, not 12.
 

Tony

Staff member
Here is the picture I was looking at. Feeding 12 volts into that board could cause damage. And it would be very bad to backfeed 12 volts into your computers USB port.

cfca3ad0-62f8-4e59-a4c5-a0c22217e9cb.jpg
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
I guess I got lucky this time. Thank you much sir for pointing that out to me. So what would be the easy way to get this going then? Solder the +/- harness wire from the PDB to the +/- of the FC? I'm sorry, I assume :( that the the 4 cell harness coming from the PDB connects to the 5v ppm/sbus is. Obvious I'm lost. Point me in the right direction please :) Thanks
 

Tony

Staff member
No worries Ivan, that is what I'm here for.

There are multiple sets of pins on the top of your PDB. The two on the left are direct battery power. Second from the left and center is 12 volt if you are using a 4s, and 1 volt less than what a 3 cell puts out. The two right pins though are 5v. All you have to do is move your plug over two pins and you should be good. Just remember to flip that plug over because the ground is going from the left to the right when looking down on it.

My guess is this is your issue with it disconnecting from betaflight when you hook up the battery. It is getting too much voltage and disconnects to save the board and your computer. Below is a quick wiring schematic on how to wire it. Hope this helps.

Untitled-1.jpg
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
I finally got around to moving the plug over two pins. SOB, I cant believe I didn't catch it. I didn't know what I was looking for in the first place Lol so that's why I asked :) You mention that Feeding 12 volts into that board could cause damage. And it would be very bad to backfeed 12 volts into your computers USB port. So if it can cause damage to the FC, I take it that it can cause damage to the esc too? All four motors were working on each quad before. This time the 180 has one motor working and the 210 has two motors working :(. That's OK because I have new everything for both so I'll just start over and get it right this time. Keep the other for spares. Thanks alot Tony for helping me out. I appreciated very much :). I'm always learning something new :). Remembering is the hard part Lol.
 

Tony

Staff member
Ah yes, the good ole CRS disease. I suffer from that as well lol.

It's my pleasure Ivan. Just one of those things that is overlooked easily.
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
Thank you/Thank you much Tony :). I wasn't sure after hooking in it up the RIGHT way :( this time, what electronics will works and what doesn't. I decided to start over from scratch last night and disassemble both quads Lol. Hopefully all should go well this time around. Thanks again :)! IMG_2544.JPG
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
Well I like to report that this time around I got the quad set up the right way with Tony's help :). Still some tweaking need to be done before a real flight. The 180 is next to be put together. Here's the 210 after some tweaking on the computer IMG_2569.JPG
 

D.O.G.

Goblin 380 Supporter
Here's a short video of my Fossil FXGS210 quad before hitting my course Lol. Thanks Tony :)
 

tampadrones

New Member
Hey, great video! I have the same board and I want to use the spek sat port... Is that not possible? I read where you soldered your wires but I was hoping for something more native. I followed your video and though I have my rx bound, I see no movement in the Receiver tab. I switched through all the UART ports and no dice. Im building a custom tricopter so I may need help getting the tail servo working too. Omnibus F4 PRO v2, Spektrum Satellite rx.
 

tampadrones

New Member
I just found in the documentation that I should be using UART6 and enter "resource inverter 6 c9" into the cli. It looked like the mapping was already there, but I saved and rebooted anyway and I still dont have any signal coming through.
 
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