Micro 180CFX Msiden and crash

[Tony]

Okay, this crap comes in 3's. URI plowed his into the ground, you tail slid yours into the ground, who's next? Maybe I should hold off on this FPV flight...

Hope you get it back together soon.

 

[Smoggie]

This was just a minor hiccup compared to Uri's crash. Damage was light, hitting throttle hold probably helped but Blade parts aren't the cheapest and even for a light crash the part cost adds up surprisingly quickly.

 

[murankar]

Autos on icros is called falling. Yes falling I think is the word you want. And yes Smoggie's is like a flesh wound whereas mine is like a leg and arm being taken off. I wish O could learn autos, i mean falling on a micro. lol.

 

[leedude1]

Well I finally got those new servos in and they are smooth as a baby's butt (Lynx all metal gears ...with the cnc aluminum cases) really sweet bits they are.

... but the shakes still abound... I removed the head (all new) and can see the main shaft with a slight wobble (its brand new and true) as with the bearing blocks... I've ordered a main motor as it is all thats left that would be pushing that main off true at this point although I cant visually see the main motor shaft spinning off.. but I have nothing else to go on here ...christ its all new,,,if that doesn't work... I'm frigging lost.

I'm going on a few posts that I had seen saying that some guys had some issues with the motor shaft being bent after crashes... will let you know folks...I really want to get this bird back in the air, its become man against machine at this point.

 

[murankar]

It's possible since there is no support for the motor shaft. An out of round or warped main gear can cause stuff to happen. Not all main gears will be true and in some cases it would be fine, but in other cases it can cause issues. If that does not work I would be at a loss. I have not flown mine enough to know what else to do. Mine is still down and $60 worth of parts to get back up. So for now it's going to stay down till the gobby is remaidened and flying.

 

[leedude1]

Thanks, yeah ill see when the motor comes in and I swap it out.:

Im mean really???

. new blade grips
. replaced hub with the stock (in case the aluminum was warped)
. new spindle x2 (rechecked and changed it out again just in case)
. new main shaft x2 (rechecked and changed it out again ... also just in case)
. new bearing blocks
. tail gears pinion and bevel
. tail boom mount to aluminum ( Lynx, part came in so I swapped out the stock when I changed the TT gears)
. tail grip spindle.

so all thats left is the main motor shaft or I know........ the frigging CANOPY

 

[murankar]

Are these shakes coming from the main rotor or the tail? if its the tail then one thing to check is the boom supports. Make sure the support ends are still glued solid to the supports. As for the main rotor I am still not sure what else it could be.

 

[leedude1]

swapped out the motor and still got the shakes.. Ive posted a vid below... Im at the point of trying to strip it all and put it back together .. This started after I swapped out the servos.. I may try put 150 trex gyro pads under the the receiver/yro to isolate it see if that helps. I've even dropped the gyro cyclic settings by 5 points each in the advanced settings as I figure maybe because these new servos are so "tight" plus the new stiff dampers may have removed some of play and the bird is just more sensitive to the regular vibs.

Take a look you can see she has the up down bob to her. Let me know folks ... thanks for the help...we'll get there.. I will not go buy the new one till this one is fixed LOL its a challenge now, the gloves have been thrown down... man against machine.


https://youtu.be/ewKu7_lHUQs

 

[Tony]

Keep trying to turn the cyclic gain down. Some of these need a very low cyclic gain. As long as you don't have any drift, you will be fine. And yes, try to securely mount the gyro with gel tape if you can. They sell some 3M stuff at Lowes (or just about any hardware store) that I love. it's clear, about 1/8" thick and is all I use. Works perfectly.

 

[leedude1]

That the 2 sided grey foam 3m tape with the red plastic on it? I actually got some... I'll give it a shot. I had one of the 150 gyro pads left and was going to slap that on first seams to be a little higher..... but I'll try the 3m stuff if you think it's a better option.

 

[Tony]

The stuff that I use is clear. Below is a link to it from the company I got mine from. They are great people over there.

Tapes / Adhesives : Microheli Double Sided Gel Tape 2x20x1000mm

 

[murankar]

Yes the 3M Grey with the red backer is fine. Thats what I use.

 

[leedude1]

Well swapped out the motor and shakes are still there.. hell, Im ending up with a whole new bag of parts and spares, because I looking at the swaps and they look fine so haven't chucked anything yet.

I've gone down to 90 on the cyclic gains and stopped as I didn't see much improvement while increasing head speed and idle up to a solid 85%. Nothing

Im going to go back to the stock dampers to see if the softer ones will absorb some of this and add another layer to the gyro as well and go back to the stock TT , again just in case my slipper clutch one was somehow affected by the crash . Although the tail authority is there, something might be spinning a little off (hell I dunno)...

I had a DUH moment when I found two loose screws at the front of the landing gear where it attaches to the frame, as at this point Im literally pulling at every screw entry to see if something was loose and the LG moved in my hand. As I tightened them up calling myself stupid and saying there are the vibs thats causing this mess...plugged in a fresh lipo....and NOTHING same result. I was so sure. I glad and pissed off that its not that, because I would have scolded myself for days and allowed you boys to push me back to NEWB status

Could this be a gyro issue? im pretty sure it has to be mechanical or I would see something else affected. These shakes actually started after I swapped out the servos but as I mentioned these things are super smooth with ZERO play... and are direct replacements for the stock... I had the bird floating up and down before...no shakes...

My last effort would be to revert to all stock and rebuild it from scratch maybe the frame was slightly twisted so even though all the parts are true something is just off enough to affect things.

Anyway.. having a tea now, left it on the bench for another day ...man at this point I would put it in the corner and let my mother in law talk to it for a few hours .... I know that always gets me going That is the fun and frustration aint it boys...but it gives me something to think about and something to tinker with.. I will win

let me know if you have any other thoughts on this guys...

Im gonna post up in the open forum with my 50 year b-day purchase.. Would like your feedback there also people.

 

[murankar]

At this point its very possible the gyro could be bad. One thing to check though is the mounting tabs on the cyclic servos. Make sure those are not broke or stressed. That can cause some issues. Plus its an easy oversight, just wiggle the servos and see if they move at all. Stiffer dampers are better for higher head speeds while the softer are better at lower head speeds. Poorly balanced main blades can cause issues. Check them by weight and cg. Check how tight the main blades are. If they are to tight they may not be settling right and to loose may cause extra lagging in the blades which can lead to a tip stall.

 

[leedude1]

Thanks Matthias,

Well people, I found the issue, I started to revert things back to stock and as I knew it was flying fine there. Having changed everything that could have been a possible problem (sometimes twice just in case) I was left scratching..

So I put back the stock main hub with the original soft dampers...test flew it. still shaking like Ali on a bad day...

I put back the stock grips ( replacing the brand new lynx grips I had installed after the crash) test flew it again... BINGO she's stable... not perfect but at this stage if I were to film it I don't even think you people could even see it ( I'm anal for this thing so will fine tune but I know its done) I think at this stage it's just fine tuning and tweaking ...blades, gain etc. nothing to worry about.

Im thinking I might have I got some locktight in the grip bearings or maybe they weren't set properly in the grips at the factory causing things to be just a little off, and when I got the servos and all the replacements parts after the gym crash and put it all on (and there was alot ) I could never have realized that one of the replacement parts was that far off.

Well its done, and bright side is I can fly my bird again and I have a wack of new parts.... a home built crash kit if you like.

Good rule of thumb if you get to the "I just don't know" stage like I was... go back to the last place it was working fine and for me it was go back the original stock parts I had, one at a time, testing at each stage as I was guessing it may have been multiple things working together and if it flew even incrementally better after a change I would leave that part and change something else.

Thanks as always for all your help and direction people.

 

[Tony]

Sometimes, you have to go backwards to go forward. Glad you found the issue. Get some brake cleaner and clean those bearings out and put them back on to see if you still have the issue. But what matters is you have found the issue and you can fly again.

 

[leedude1]

Yeah I'm going to put in the older main grips that I had before (lynx as well) just to see... Im not even sure if thats the issue with them, im guessing for now but I'll know once I put those older ones back in... I had swapped out the bearings in those in the past and had to boil then out because they were glued in place.


and brake cleaner will get the locktight out?

 

[Tony]

Yup, it will. Might have to soak them in acetone overnight first though. Do NOT use nail polish remover. Most of them have added crap in them that kills the effectiveness. Just get straight acetone and soak them.

 

[leedude1]

ill try the older grips as a start and if the're good then I try to clean these new ones out and see whats shaking. ill probably bake em out first and remove the bearings from the grips to start then do the cleaning or will the acetone loosen then up as well and give me the 2 birds with one stone so to speak?

So acetone over night and then brake cleaner?

 

[Tony]

Acetone could possibly take the annodizing finish off the aluminum parts, and it melts plastic. just keep that in mind. But yes, acetone over night then hit it with brake cleaner like I show in this video.

How To Clean Bearings The Easy Way - YouTube