600 Airwolf 620 Build

image.jpgI'm not sure how to get that info BUT I did do this calculation and the results (although I don't understand them) state that with current setup I can't even HOVER this beast!?

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I find it interesting that I can post things, not get any responses (right away) but just posting them helps me figure things out myself. ;). I have now got everything working but still get chirping. Here is vid
[video=youtube_share;QdiwdoiZxGY]http://youtu.be/QdiwdoiZxGY[/video]
 
[video=youtube_share;XiOmgYoqMmo]http://youtu.be/XiOmgYoqMmo[/video]
Voltage After Total Capacity & Resistance should read 22.2 instead of 1.3.

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That should be instead of 3.7 not 1.3

am I reading wrong? I don't see 1.3 anywhere.

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Well everything SEEMED to be fine regardless of the calculations by CASTLE so I gave it a try outside. Here be the resultd
 
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pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Timing should be fine. Maybe try 12khz freq. I doubt you're doing any damage, but it should not be so tight as to hold up the motor. Can you hand turn the motor and get things to cycle freely? What if you turn the rotor head in either direction?
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Just watched the vids. I think it's just a sticky gear mesh and the soft start. Maybe try increasing the soft start speed so it gets out of that low region faster. Put some flights on it and try to break in the gears a bit. Will listen again when I get home on a good computer.

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The 12khz may help too.
 

Tony

Staff member
That last video you posted showed what the issue is. That head should not stop that fast. It should free spin for quite a wile and be silky smooth when you turn it by hand. Make sure you check the gear mesh and have it set correctly, make sure our one way bearing (OWB) is working correctly and unlocking the main from teh auto gear. I will bet dollars to doughnuts that if you find this issue and free it up, you will find your issue and solve it. Also make sure your main shaft is not being pinched too hard in the bearing blocks. Meaning, take the shims out and see if it fixes the issue if your gear mesh and OWB are working correctly.
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Just got to watch again and listen on a quality set of speakers. I didn't realize it was clicking throughout the flight and also didn't see how quickly it spun down.

I agree with Tony, that drivetrain seems inordinately tight. Either the OWB is not disengaging or you've got a radial bearing sticking some place. OWB check is simple, you should be able to manually turn the rotor head in the clockwise direction and the motor will not move or provide any resistance to the motion of the rotor. AS Tony said, it should turn freely. Swing it around with your hand and it should keep rotating at least a few times. If the motor is not turning but it is still hard to move or will not rotate freely, then you need to check the shims and the radial bearing throughout the system. First, pull the tail off the frame (including the front block) and make sure the main rotor turns freely with the main gears not engaged at all with the tail assembly. If that frees up then you know your issues is in the tail. Pull the boom from the front block and see if either assembly is tight or is producing clicking. Keep pulling apart until you narrow down what is the culprit. Maybe some CA or green LT got in a bearing race?

On a Gob 700 I ran into some sticky gear motion in the front tail block. I pulled it all apart and found nothing wrong with the bearings individually. Put it back together and no issues anymore. Sometimes things get pinched or rub and cause problems like this too.

Also, those tail blades are very floppy, I'd put a little more tension on them in the blade grips so they will hold their outward position when it spins down, but still loose enough to easily be moved with a touch of the finger.
 
Crud, I just put on the fuse thinking i was close. The blades do turn withouth the motor turning but very stiff. Will disassemble as instructed and find the problem. Thanks Paul, Tony!

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Just remembered reading something about stiff gears when i first started this build so went back to Century to check and found this:
Q. Why are the gears so tight on my helicopter?
P. When I try to turn my main gear, all the gears seem to be very tight, making it difficult to turn them by hand. Alternately, when I have changed my main gear, it again is difficult to turn the main gear in the helcopter.
A. Century uses a proven, dual gear reduction mechanism to deliver power from the engine to the main rotor head. When the helicopter is new, it is normal for the drive gears to be tight. Just wait for 4-6 tanks of fuel while the engine is wearing in to have the gears become silky smooth. Unlike most of the other designs in the market, where there are only two gears, the clutch bell and the main gear, our helicopter has four. The key benefit with this type of design is to reduce the loading on the individual teeth of each gear as there are more teeth engaged at all times.
Be carefull if you have changed the clutch bell, and installed a new lining by bonding it into the clutch bell with JB Weld. If the amount of adhesive is excessive the gap between the clutch and the bell will be too small. Use only a small amount and spread evenly on the liner.
 
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pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Well, can do what they say and fly it for 4-6 flights and see if it loosens up. Hopefully it will. If it doesn't, though, def break things down a bit and see if you can find a siezed/pinched bearing or over shimmed transmission.

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Also, if you don't want to put the model at risk in the air, you could probably run it bladeless on the bench (or use your test stand with blades on for loading, cool setup BTW) and see if it works the gears in that way.
 

murankar

Staff member
Make sure the main shaft can fall freely though the bearing blocks. This can wear the bearings prematurely. Also I noticed that those tail blades were real loose.
 
Thanks, Uri, yeah I can't make the tail rotors tight enough with the two washers provided to keep em from flopping. I'll add another (or thicker) washer. These are plastic, does the material matter?
Thanks, Paul. great idea. I'll definitely use the stand to run se packs through!
 

murankar

Staff member
Plastic, carbon fiber does not matter as long as it flies. C.f. provides better tail authority for 3d flight. Maybe pick up a new set and see if they do the same thing. If so you have a spare set.

It just seemed odd that they were that loose. Given the amount of head speed you had when they folded.

Sent from my LG-E980 using Forum Runner
 
Final test flight before adding fuselage.
[video=youtube_share;9vN0s5DTJi8]http://youtu.be/9vN0s5DTJi8[/video]

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Tony

Staff member
Please, please, please tighten those blade grips! On a bird this size, they should be abnormally tight. and give that thing about 500 more rpm when flying. It will be MUCH more stable than it is now, and that is saying something. That is some wicked low head speed.
 
[video=youtube_share;d9ljLgOtt98]http://youtu.be/d9ljLgOtt98[/video]Ok I think I followed all your suggestions and here, FINALLY, is the maiden flight of my semi-completed Airwolf.
 
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murankar

Staff member
Nice looking kit. Looks like its ready for some scale flights.

Sent from my LG-E980 using Forum Runner
 
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