General Align 550e help

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Yeah, plug the electronics in (preferably only the receiver and gyro, not the ESC/motor), zero out the trims and subtrims, move throttle to center stick (use the monitor screen on the Tx to make sure you are centered), then move the horns around to get them as close to 90 degrees as you can in that centered state. Then use subtrim to get them all at 90 degrees. Where this ends up in the "full travel center" is not important. I only ever use the full travel center method for the very first stab at putting the horns on while they are not powered.
 

cyco_heli

Member
ok ill just get them close as I can and sub them out .
I was messing with it and looking at things and I was spinning the head looking at the gear's Main and I think it the smaller one under the main gear auto gear ?
I think I saw a wobble in the gears .
I pulled the main blades and tail blades and spooled it up and I did see a wobble .
The smaller gear goes up and down and u can hear it .
It don't have a steady noise it's broke up sound. so now I have to take out the main shaft and see if its straight see why the gear is going up and down .
The main gear BIG one is fine stay's in one spot as it turns its the smaller one maybe in the hub thing lol I don't know .
Glad im messing with it that could have been bad .
Any idea's on what it could be ?
 

Tony

Staff member
More than likely, it's just warped. You can try to bend it out of the auto gear, but it's not going to hurt anything. Or shouldn't. I'm not sure how bad the warp is.
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
Do u have the brass spacer between the main and auto gear? Upon a rebuild I forgot to put it in... Realize it after completing the rebuild.. Thought I'd just roll on w/out it... But had a lot of play for such a small shim/spacer... So I tore it down and put it back in... Solid w no play after get'n it back in... Just a thought.. Hope that helps.

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image.jpgThis is a page from the 550e dfc manual..

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However as Tony said It could just be warpage... If it's a molded gear that is often the case... If it's not causing a bad vib and the assembly is correct... Roll with it.

image.jpg
 
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cyco_heli

Member
thanks for the help guy's !
yes I took it apart and checked to make sure the washer shim what ever was in there and yes it has it .
So im thinking it's warp .

pvolcko ty for the vid and yes SAME thing . smaller gear going up and down .
It does have a vib in it ......ty cml001
With no blades on it and low to just under mid it shakes pretty good . I put my hands on both sides of the frame and you can a kinda bad vib
and aslo see it . So now im thinking on doing the KDE upgrade to the black slant main gear and get the set that already has the hub I think it's called
and the smaller lower gear. So I can upgrade and fix my problem to .
this thing is getting to be a pain . lol
 

cyco_heli

Member
ok I wont worry about it then ,ill trust your word .
ty for the vid and help.......pvolcko

Anyone know If the Align Main shaft Bearings are any good ?
I am reading and seeing a lot of people say they are junk .
Are the KDE Direct bearings any good as I am reading in a lot of places that KDE is the way to go ?
42$ for the set.
 

Graham Lawrie

Well-Known Member
I run Align on mine with no issues:)
Without blades on you can sometimes get vibration. Like Paul said if it is like the video it will be minor and still fly :)
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
I haven't had any issues yet with Align bearings.

KDE are good people and make quality products. I'm sure if they're putting their name on a bearing set that it will be good quality and a definite upgrade from stock stuff.
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
I haven't had issue w align bearings either... But I did replace all stock plastic w KDE stuff... Pricey I guess but well worth it to me...
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
On the flip side, I have had bearing failure on my Blade 550X. Had to replace the top bearing block and the middle was starting to stick a bit last I checked it. I keep them well oiled. Just crappy bearings from what I can tell. The smaller bearings in the heli have held up well, though.
 

cyco_heli

Member
Hey guy's ,
I was in my Tx and going to all the setup's to make sure im not missing anything and I noticed
in the D/R & Expo I have 100 and 100 but on Rudd it is ........ 0 ?
why is it at 0 .
Does it have anything to do with the gyro ? it's the GP900 .
Also in Sub Trim my Gyro is 32+ ? what's sub trim's have to do with Gyro ?
Also I have my servos centered a lot better now .
My Ail was like 26 and Elv like 32 and Pit was high also .Now the Ail is 4r Elev is 8d Pit is 10+ so much better .
 

Tony

Staff member
the 100, are they both dual rate? If you have 100 expo, then it's going to be very hard to fly. And the 100 just means you have 100% of your travel that you have set in the travel adjust menu. Which should also be at 100. And you should not have any sub trim on a gyro. You will make that adjustment in the gyro menu, this adjust the gain of hte gyro.
 

cyco_heli

Member
Yes D/R is 100 - 100 then Rudd is 0 .
Does 0 on Rudder mean I don't have any movement ? 100 both ways ?
Expo is 0 on all . All the expo does is slow the heli down if its to jumpy . I need about 30 - 40 % it si to fast for me .
My friend set this up as you know that's why i am asking and don't understand why in Sub Trim its 32+ for gyro
Also I have the remote set up to what u said and have in your post and video's servos set to 90 but now
I have more elev than the rest ,meaning the elev goes up more than the pit and ail .
im about ready to put it on ebay .
 

Tony

Staff member
Yes, that means you have NO movement if your DR is set to 0. This also needs to be set to 100.

And dont' put it on ebay, we cna get it worked out.

Put 35% (positive) on your aileron and elevator.

Make sure in the swash menu, the aileron and elevator are at the same number. Find the lowest number of the two and lower the higher one to it. Pitch in that menu is your collective.

If the tail is solid, then leave the gyro alone for now until you get used to the helicopter. But, if it's not, then put the sub trim on the gyro to 0. I can almost assure you, with what you are doing here, you will need to redo the DIR setup and Rudder setup in the 3GX. In fact, I'm sure of it.
 

cyco_heli

Member
ok lol now im really messed up .
I powered up the heli and my tail moves right and left more left than right because I have some bind but its moves at 0 ?
OK so far I started over and set the Tx to your specs and at 50% center stick with TH on and Idle up on im at center and my
JUST GOT TODAY swash leveling tool all three servos are touching no gaps .
So swash is level . Now when I push up on throttle the pitch goes up a lot more and same down Pitch has a gas
on high end and low on the swash tool .

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3gx ? isn't that the FBL ?
also im lost , Put 35% (positive) on your aileron and elevator. where ?
in Swash , its at -60 and the other 2 r +60 .
 

Tony

Staff member
The gap is the anti-pitch compensation in the gyro. That is fine as long as it's not a big gap.

In all honesty, I would setup a brand new model in the Tx and start fresh. You have no idea what your buddy put in there that could cause this thing to have an issue that you will chase for hours. If this were mine, I would setup a brand new model, set the swash to 120º (if you are running a 3GX, read a lot today and can't remember lmao) then go into the main menu and power on the helicopter and put the 3GX into DIR mode and start fresh on the 3GX as well. This way, not only will you know it's done right, but you will have done it and you will know what is in it.
 
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