500 Blade 550 X Pro (Build Thread)

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
So, have a question on tightening down the servos. How tight is too tight? Or loose, too loose? With the rubber mounting grommets there is a significant amount of compression possible and it doesn't make sense to me to crank down too far or else whatever purpose the grommets serve is probably lost. First pic of of the a loose servo. The screw is only tightened enough to bring everything into contact, but not enough to compress the grommet at all. Second is of my idea of what tightness is reasonable: moderate (maybe a bit more than moderate) grommet compression and distension, enough to keep the servo secured firmly, but not so much as to make things "rigid". Would appreciate your guys help on this. :)

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Tony

Staff member
CA is Cyanoacrylate, and super glue is pretty much the same thing, In fact it IS the same thing. There is just a bit different formula for stuff we use in this hobby for things like building and such. But, SG will work great, no worries there.

As for the servo tightening, the second pic is pretty much perfect. You don't want it so loose that the servos move when you are flying around, but you don't want them so tight that you might as well hard mount them. IMO, the way these things are made, they are not needed on electric models. I have them on my 600, but that is because it's a nitro, and they vibrate a LOT. so I want to protect it. But again, second picture looks perfect.
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks for the feedback. Just finished up with the frame sub-assembly and mounting the rotor. Pictures and notes to follow soon. :)
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
The build continues... :) Frame day.

Actually, first, tried your suggestion, Lee, and pulled the blade grips away and rotated them. The subtle ripple seemed to go away. Hard to tell since it was subtle to start with and it is hard to pick up that kind of feeling while applying pressure to the hands and fingers like that. By subtle, I'm talking ice fishing small perch. The tiniest nibble on the line. I'm pretty sure it is fine.

Also had the second set of hex keys so was able to torque down the spindle retaining bolts (after backing them out, cleaning, and reapplying TL).

So now... On with the build!

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Started the day with a sanding of all the areas that might contact wires. Took a long time. Got carbon dust in my fingernail beds. All good. :)
Later in the day, jumped in to frame assembly. Lose fitting things together.

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Added the rest of the parts needed for loose fit and getting the bearing blocks lined up in prep for torquing down.

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Torqued down, thread locked. Head rotates freely without any grit or binding. The size is a bit intimidating. The rotor head and main shaft are larger than my Nano by themselves. :)
The manual up to this point has been very good. Well written. Lacking some info on torque to be applied in some cases, but overall very good.

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Until this page... :) The manual references bag F3 for this step, but the parts are actually in F4. Took me a little bit to figure it out. I checked Horizon Hobby's website and they do have an addendum page that replaces this one. Of course, didn't do that before hand. Note: Always check heli manufacturer website for errata sheets! :)

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Landing skids in place.

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And then a road bump... The lower bearing block turns out to have a top and bottom. The other blocks did too, but they were easy to visually see due to an "L" arm that was on the left side of the heli (to provide a standoff inside the body for the elevator servo, to get the link arm aligned with the swash). The lower block, however, did not have this and looked otherwise orientation agnostic. I, of course, had installed it upside down. Unscrew, clean bolts, flip, reinstall, re-LT and torque. I took apart the main gear assembly, cleaned and lubed the central collar as instructed, and put it back together. I noticed that both gears appeared to have a slight "wobble" to them. No more than a 1mm. I had some concern on this, and still do. But I don't see what can be done about it. It is a plastic/delrin part afterall. It's not going to be perfectly flat. Things appear to be aligned properly. I may take the gear out again and see if the bolts holding the bearing/flange onto the driven (larger) gear are torqued on there evenly. It appeared to be fine before I installed it. Also, the powertrain fit very snuggly. No shims or anything like that were needed. There was the slightest up and down play initially, but pulling up on the main shaft while setting the collar to the top bearing solved that nicely. This collar and the up/down play is on my checklist for inspection after the first spin up.

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Mounted the motor and set the mesh with the paper strip method. After doing this and getting everything TLed and torqued down, spun the mechanism a bunch to test both the wobble effect, if any, and also to make sure the one-way slip was good. The one way slip was fine. I had some concern that there would be some binding but it was free as could be. Wobble didn't appear to affect mesh or cause any issues with the pinion binding at the high spot. So not worried about it, at least for now. On spin up day, well, I'll be taking it very easy on the throttle. Probably let it spin on the ground for a good while. Will fashion some oversized training gear so it won't tip on me while doing prolonged high-ish throttle ground tests, and to make sure the FBL isn't setup goofy.

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Done for the night. Tail tomorrow, maybe electronics too.


Thanks for the help and comments, everyone!

- - - Updated - - -

Oops, hit post too quickly and didn't set those images to medium. Oh well. :)

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Tony

Staff member
Doesn't help you now, but next time you do the sanding on the frame, wet the part and paper with water. It will help out a LOT and make for a smoother sanding on the part.

The <1mm wobble is not an issue. They are all going to have a wobble. You can try to bend it out, but it's really not an issue.

The build is looking to be coming right along. Keep up the good work bro!
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
I did wet sand it. Used 320 or 360 grit. Just tedious work. :)

A vid of the wobble:

[video=youtube_share;-xjISxAD7z0]http://youtu.be/-xjISxAD7z0[/video]
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
Looks great,
The slight wobble will be ok. My align main gears do the same thing. I did manage to get one totally level by putting it flat on my cooker top and turning it to see where the high spot was. Then i would torque down the screw in the one way bearing housing on that side a touch more, and that would sort out the wobble.

Edit Just watched the video. Yeh thats fine no worries.
 
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murankar

Staff member
As far as torque; just snug and let the thread locker do its job. Nothing should be so tight that you have to muscle it out. Keep in mind the screw heads will strip out if they are to tight.
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Build day 3, tail (and maybe a bit more)...

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Front gear box parts. Very simple design. No way to set gear mesh, it is what it is. That goes for both the umbrella gear mesh and also the mesh with the slave of the main gear.

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Getting the single umbrella gear into the bearings was pretty easy. Sandwich the bearings in the block halves and press it in. It is fully in when it "snaps" into place. The gears on the shaft, however, were a little trickier.

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The bearings had to be pressed in so they would pop into the channel. Took a bit of effort and almost missed it, instead letting the bearings ride in top of the raised channel guide on either end. When I went to press the two block halves together it would have been obvious something was off.

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This was a bit of a pain. There are two notches that the block fits into on either side of the frame. It wouldn't line up with the notch holes for quite a while. Took some finessing and swearing to get it lined up. Then the notches wouldn't press into the holes. Ended up having to press pretty hard to get them to go in. Very tight fit, which is good, but unexpected amount of effort needed.

Onto the back block...
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The sub-assembly came very loosely pre-assembled. Nice to have the reference and also makes sure they have all the parts in the baggie. :)

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All pulled apart, screws and holes cleaned, and then LT and torqued down.

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Tail rotor assembly. I find I actually like the rotor head assembly process. Something satisfying about placing all the pieces in the blade grip and torquing it all down. This one was butter smooth, whereas the main rotor grips had that subtle "ripple" to them.

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Installed on the tail shaft along with the bellcrank. The small step washers on either side of the bellcrank bearings were a bit of pain. Easy to drop and loose. Got it figured out and assembled though. Very smooth action for rotation and slider movement.

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Torque tube time!

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Used some tape on the edge of the table to space out where the bearings would be mounted. Used super glue. Very small bead which I then spread out a bit with the blunt end of a toothpick. Bearings slid on without anything getting in the bearing. After having done it now, I can see how it would be very easy to do so. This is one of those "the less the better" situations.

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Used a light coating of Break Free CLP (gun lubricant) on the edges of the rubber grommets and slid it in. No problems at all.

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Then it was time to mount it all up. Started by inserting the torque tube into the front block. There is a notch along the left side which is the rough guide for sliding it into place. Tested to make sure the torque tube was engaged with the umbrella gear since it all slid in very easily. Just happened to get lucky that the contact point was aligned perfectly with the gear orientation. :) Left the four bolts on the back housing loose for the moment. Then put the tail block on. Once it bottomed out and everything was making tight contact, I backed the rear block off about 1-2mm (the blade 550 build video suggested doing this). Again, I left the two bolts for this assembly loose. Got it up on my steps, balanced it out with some weight on the front, then used a level on the head and on the tail block to make sure they were matched up, which should (hopefully) give a good 90 degree angle between main shaft and tail shaft. I tightened down the front block bolts, checked levels again, then slowly, evenly tightened down the back bolts (after applying some LT). Again, this was a situation where I wasn't sure how much to torque it down. The back block has slots cut into the collar for this connection, allowing the part to compress down on the tube. I didn't go too far with it, afraid I'd crush the tube or damage the tail block. Hopefully it is secure enough. I didn't get any pics of this connection. I'll do that tomorrow to get your guys' feedback. After all this I visually inspected things and leveled them one last time to make sure things were still in line. All good.

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Tail blades mounted (very sturdy plastic). Torqued them down so that there is enough tension to hold them in place in all orientations, but loose enough where at near center there is a +/- 10 degree region where they can move fairly easily. Given the speeds and mass involved, I believe it will be loose enough without being too loose. Mounted tail fin and horizontal fin, torqued down the support rod connection points, hooked up the tail control link to the bellcrank (but guides are still loose until hooked up to the servo).

This looks suspiciously like a helicopter!

Speaking of servos, electronics! :)
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Another manual. Excellent. I eat this stuff for lunch. :)

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Beginning of some routing planning. Motor wires are very stiff. Nothing taped down or anything yet.

No power for the electronics (no properly sized battery to directly power and no main battery until this coming week. So can't really mount the servo horns or hook up linkages in any way that won't have to be redone later. I can work on routing wires and getting the electronics mounted, but that's about it. Only option I can think of is...

Can I hook a 3S battery to the ESC input and have it power the BEC? the 3S is too much voltage to run directly into the 7200BX, I believe. And I don't have the connectors to make an adapter to the mini-EC connector on the BEC. So I'd have to run it through to the EC5 connector using my "many types" charging cable (put some heat shrink on the bullet connector ends that normally go into the charger). Would this work, or will the ESC only accept 6S?

Will have to check manuals. If it can work then I could potentially get a lot more of this done this weekend.

Otherwise, not much more will be coming until maybe Tuesday or Wednesday when one of the 6S batteries I ordered shows up.

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Lee

Well-Known Member
Shes looking really nice. The tail assembly is very similar to Aligns. I love the double tail pitch slider. I had that on one of my 450s.
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Batteries showed up today, as luck would have it. So no need to play games with alternate powering methods until they arrive. US Post Office must be stepping up their game to remain in the nation's good graces at budget time, wasn't expecting these until early next week. :) Of course this means I almost have to continue with the build tonight. Can't put in the crazy late night I did last night though (didn't hit the sack until 7am or so). Charging up the EP Buddy battery now. I screwed up and ordered a 5S from HK. Not sure how I managed that given I was browsing with the 6S flag on. Check the order receipt though and sure enough I goofed. Ordered up the right one and will be sending this one back on Monday for refund.
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
I did the same thing. Ordered (or thought i did) 3 6S 1300mah batteries, and somehow ordered 3 4S batteries DOH!!!!
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Thanks. :)

So I spent a bunch of time last night putting together links and going through beastX setup. Some of it will be good, like all the parameter settings and whanot. But I will be redoing the swash and cyclic setup items. I'm going to pull the head off, use the swash leveler I have, and get the links, at least initially, all set to the same length (right now they are roughly the same, maybe off by a couple twists here and there). Then it comes time to put the head back on and mount the main blades and start in on final setup. Also need to route wires. The manual's depiction of the ESC positioning makes ESC->motor wire routing difficult so I'm going to flip it around. But It's all comign together. No pics really since it was almost all working through the beastX menu items, setting up tail servo link and horn, etc. It's getting very close though. We have some crappy weather coming up at the beginning of the week, but Thursday is supposed to be nice so that may well be first spin up and maiden day. Will be bringing it down to the LHS to have them give it a once over.
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
So, did some more tonight.

1) As mentioned in the prior post, turned the ESC around and tried that way of routing the major power lines. Worked out much better.

2) Tried a number of wire routing options and settled on what I think is good. Here's a pic.

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Zip ties are only at one click (just enough to bundle so I can move things if I want). Would appreciate comments from some seasoned builders if I'm doing something that is fraught with peril. :) The ESC is just held on with the velcro strap at the moment. I kind of like it, but the manual and the official blade build video both indicate that a zip tie should be used, in addition to double-sided taping it down. BEC is velcroed on and will get a securing zip tie in final. The outputs from the BEC run through a large hole in the frame to the inside channel, under the bottom bearing block for the main gear, so there is no risk of them getting tangled up in that. The ESC throttle control also runs through that same zip tie as the BEC outs, just on the other side. It runs with those lines to the back where they emerge out the 2nd to last rear frame hole. elevator servo wire will get zip tied to the back of the frame piece, as seen. Then the wire runs to the back between the to other servos, between the tail block and the 7200bx holder plate and then loop to the back of the controller. tail servo run is easily seen.

I'm planning to coil up the loops at the back. The throttle and tail servo wires may get coiled up and stuffed into that hold in the frame at the very back, and then a zip tie to the back frame to make sure they don't come out of the cubby hole. The other servo leads can't really get stored away that well. The space between the tail block and controller mounting plate is very narrow. I may try to stuff them into that area, but I'm not convinced they won't work their way out and possibly end up getting chewed up by the tail block gear assembly.

3) Pulled the head and swash leveled. Amazingly, it was perfectly leveled right from the jump through the full range of pitch. This means that my swash links were the same length without adjusting them and that I had managed to get the servo centering adjustments (essentially sub-trimming in the beastx) done right by just eye balling them. I was shocked. Put the head back on, re-TLd the swash drivers.

4) Put the main blades on. Ran the remaining 7200bx setup items. Reran the servo centering, this time not adjusting it, but using it as trimmed neutral swash reference for checking netural/0 degree blade pitch and adjusting the blade links as needed. Turns out I had -1.5deg of pitch on both blades so I adjusted one blade to 0 deg first. 6 half turns to start was too much, put me at +1.5deg. So came back 3 half turns and it was dead nuts 0. Turned the other link 3 half turns and it was now at -2.5deg. Oops. Wrong way, 6 half turns the other way and 0 was achieved. Checked at multiple positions in the rotation range just to make sure the swash was really level. All good.

I'll note here that I tried both a digital and dial pitch gauge. I found the dial gauge, while less precise, to be far easier to use. The digital one more or less requires that you re-zero at each position in the rotation range that you want check pitch at. Even if you are on a perfectly level table or floor, the heli more than likely squats unevenly on the landing skids. I had it up on the table which is not level so I was getting wildly varying readings as I checked through the full rotor rotation. If you're doing all the checks at a single rotor position, it might be useful, but for checking at multiple rotational positions it is way too much of a hassle. Also, even though the dial gauge wasn't as precise, it is still accurate enough, especially on a heli as large as this one since the gauge has some distance from your level reference on the head hub. The digital one is still useful, I found, though. For instance I used ti to check my head hub to tail alignment, which I had set during the build with a carpenter's bubble level.

Back to the build, from there went through a few other setup items: set the 6 degree aileron point, set maximum +/- pitch (I used 10 degrees, reasonable?), set pitch/aile/elev maximums restrictions, and whatever else was left. Checked tail extents settings just to be sure, as well as piro and swash compensation direction settings (all good from yesterday).

And I was done with 7200bx setup.

LT'd the servo horn mounting screws.

7200bx mounting plate is still loose fitted, zip ties still loose, etc. until I am sure of my routing choices and can lock that all down.

Got the canopy out and tried it on.

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Nice...

So, very nearly done now. Need to mount the esc and 7200bx on double sided tape (foam fro the 7200bx, thinner stuff for the ESC). Curl or pack away the excess wire leads at the back. Zip tie it all down.

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Lee

Well-Known Member
Looks great. I would use the Zip tie instead of the velcro on the ESC. Keeping it cool is a priority, so anything that covers it an insulates it, like a velcro strap will inhibit that Imao. Just make sure the wires going into the BX have a little bit of slack in them, so you don't transfer vibrations through the wires to the FBL unit.
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing on the ESC air venting. Interestingly, the heat sink and fins on the BEC are on the bottom, which the instructions said to mount with velcro to the frame. Seems that it is going to have a lot of problems dissipating heat. Going to do a load test on the swash to see if it cuts out at all.
 

Ken Jackson

Active Member
Can't wait to see that fly. The only thing I don't like about the Blade line is everything is plastic. Not that carbon fiber doesn't break but plastic just seems more fragile to me. The 130x although it flies well is pretty cheaply built.

Ken
:excitement:
 

pvolcko

Well-Known Member
The frame on this is CF. plastic lower bearing block, but aluminum middle and upper block. tail boom and torque tube were alumimum judging by their weight and feel. the front tail block is plastic, but it is sandwiched in the frame very securely. rear tail block is all AL. gyro plate is CF mounted on AL cross members. ESC and battery/bottom-plate are plastic. ESC is fine. might have been nice to have a CF bottom plate. tail fins are CF. tail boom supports are CF with pinned AL ends. Landing skids are plastic, which is fine by me since they need more flex anyway. I'm pretty impressed actually with the overall engineering of the design. Only a few plastic pieces and they are all reasonable choices I think, also cuts down on metal to metal fastening which I like. All load bearing locations are metal or CF. Machining on everything was excellent.

I'm itching to light it up, too. Just need to finalize the routing and get the gyro (and tray), ESC, sat recv, and battery mounted. Planning to take Thursday off to have the LHS give it a once over and probably do a spin up on site. Then, assuming everything checks out, maiden flight.

Need to get some sim and stick time in on my nano in the next few days. Build and holiday has been chewing up all my time. :)
 
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