600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build

[coolgabsi]

Green thread lock is compunction 681 I think. Only for seating bearings. It's for overcoming machining defects so the bearing sits perfect and doesn't ride or wobble.

Did the kit come with thread lock bottles and grease tubes? Usually they do... If they didn't, the red thread lock they refer to in manuals is equivalent to blue in US. It's the one we use in helis usually. Please don't use US / europes red loctite like from hardware store. That'll seal everything down to where you'll need a torch to heat it to break when repairing.

Silicone grease here is I think different than what we use in doors to seal (I think) I never used it.. Except when assembling my Serbia but then I use the hitec silicone grease. It's over priced really lol.

You can apply that silicone grease on the main gear ad you can even opt not to. IMO it'll be fine without it.

 

[Adam]

Oh the suspense of seing some build shots. Not even that i cant wait to see you fly this thing cause you have skills. So does gaba but its hard to get him to make vids.

 

[stokke]

Did the kit come with thread lock bottles and grease tubes? Usually they do...

You can apply that silicone grease on the main gear ad you can even opt not to. IMO it'll be fine without it.

I haven't even checked if there is any TL supplied! LOL
I'll check it when I get home from work.

I'm gonna do some more research on the "grease-on-maingear" operation.

Thanks, Gaba

Not even that i cant wait to see you fly this thing

You and me both, buddy

 

[stokke]

Like Gaba suggested, I checked the kit for Thread Locker - no luck

I've ordered a bunch of stuff now, blue thread lock included.
I have decided to go with Loctite 641 as an answer for JR's suggested "green TL".

The 641 does exactly what JR says the green TL should;
Retains bearings on cylindrical metal shafts/objects/etc.
Medium viscosity.
High strength, but made in such a fashion that it's not permanent for life
High temp tolerance (but not so high I'm not able to use heat for loosening).

I found the 641 on the web, but I think I'm gonna try find it in town.
I also found that Silicone grease (not spray), can be purchased on a hardware store in town.

After doing some reading about WHY one would use silicone grease on the gears; I found it's because it reduces friction and wear, and lengthens the life of the gears.

_____

Motor.
This has been a very hard decision, but I think I have made up my mind. I will go for the Turnigy SK3 Competition 560KV which I posted earlier. I had to choose between 480KV and 560KV. I've found that if I were to use the 480KV, I would've end up with a maximum head speed of ~2100. The JR manual suggests 2200~2400 RPM HS under flight/3D, and 1800~1900 for hovering. If am to use 35C batteries in combination with the Castle ESC Governor, I can get a minimum HS of ~2100, and a maximum HS of CRAZY

Summing it up.
The 480KV will allow nice hovering, but will have to work overtime to maintain HS:2100 RPM. And motors working overtime combined with governor functions is NOT recommended.

The 560KV will allow the recommended HS:2200 RPM, but will not permit a nice hover. If I were to slow down the motor (to reach HS:1900 RPM), I would have to go below the GOV's recommended limits - which of course is NOT recommended.

This comes down to some sort of a compromise; I will sacrifice "steady&easy" to get "agile&crazy". I will of course try to tame down the 560KV as much as the tech permits, so I can learn to fly the thing. This combined with some friendly set up pitch, I believe will be manageable enough for me to fly on (but probably scary as crap ).

There will also be the option to put in some 65C packs when I REALLY want this thing to fly, this would give a minimum HS:2300 RPM. LOL

____

I still have some "feelers" on some other forums, and if I don't get any warnings about this set-up, I will go ahead and order the motor over the weekend.

 

[Tony]

One way to tame it down is to go to a smaller pinion gear. The smaller the gear, the lower your HS will be and the more torque the motor will put through to the main gear. Hence better punch outs.

 

[stokke]

One way to tame it down is to go to a smaller pinion gear. The smaller the gear, the lower your HS will be and the more torque the motor will put through to the main gear. Hence better punch outs.

As you will see when I eventually begin building the frame, this pinion is not exactly "conventional" LOL
It can not be changed as easily as one would expect.

 

[Tony]

Just another reason I'm going to stick with Align lmao. Good luck.

 

[murankar]

Thats why I love my Scorpion. Easy to work on.

 

[breeze400]

I wouldn't worry about to hi of head speed for hovering. It actually should be a steadier hover with the higher head speed. I found with my 600 I had to turn up the head speed to get a better hover of of it. At low speed it was all over the place hovering.

 

[stokke]

Thats why I love my Scorpion. Easy to work on.

I'm not sure if I understand your comment.
But it's not the motors fault the pinion cannot be changed, it's the JR's fault.

I wouldn't worry about to hi of head speed for hovering. It actually should be a steadier hover with the higher head speed. I found with my 600 I had to turn up the head speed to get a better hover of of it. At low speed it was all over the place hovering.

Thanks, Sam. That's reassuring to hear.

 

[murankar]

To me it sounded like an issues with the motor shaft and pinion.

 

[stokke]

To me it sounded like an issues with the motor shaft and pinion.

No. As you'll see when I start putting this together, the JR's pinion is secured on a special mount which in turn is then mounted to the frame itself. The pinion is actually a small assembly step in it self. Due to this set-up, I can't just replace it with any other pinion because it wouldn't fit.

But hang tight, I hope to get building soon and then you'll see this oddity. I have been gathering a bunch of supplies needed to execute this build, but I'm still waiting for a lot. The motor will probably arrive last, as it was ordered last - but I can't start building without it

 

[coolgabsi]

You gotta hurry up man! I tore my bird down to bits and its all rebuilt and ready now. Last night I plugged in the head and the Jesus bolt, and its ready to beat some air!

Just kidding .. Take your time. learn the bird inside out.. So you know how to fix it if you have to! post some pics and what not.. would be good.. if you find anything special about this bird.. better or worse than other birds , things you might sughest people to check when they are building their own.. It'll make this very informative and fun!!

 

[stokke]

post some pics and what not.. would be good.. if you find anything special about this bird.. better or worse than other birds , things you might sughest people to check when they are building their own.. It'll make this very informative and fun!!

Will do

 

[stokke]

Got to do some assembly tonight

I have been adding some new additions to my chemical supplies.

Left to right:

Loctite 641 (Retaining adhesive for cylindrical fitted parts)
Red thread lock (Strong)
Blue thread lock (Medium)
Epoxy
Degreaser
Kicker
CA
Silicone grease
Sewing machine oil

As for my three retaining adhesives, I had to perform a test on a bolt I had lying around.
Each of the three nuts will be adhered with each of the three adhesives.

I will be following the instructions "by the book" as it were.
Starting with Step 1.

Step 1 is the rear tail block and the main pinion gear assembly.

These two self tapping screws were not to be found in the "step 1-1" bag.

But I found them in the bigger bag call "step 1". Of course...

Manual calls for red TL on the two bearings. I opted to use the Loctite 641 instead.

This is some good quality instructions. All is in perfect English. On each step, the screws/bolts which will be needed are listed in the top corner. The bolts also has 1:1 diagrams of the bolts, so the builder can simply place the screw/bolt onto the page.

Another nice example of quality is the holes for self tapping screws. The hole is exactly as long as the bolt which is to be inserted. This reduces the possibility of stripping threads - as you can check the end of the screw is starting to show on the other side.

The manual calls for green TL on the part of the pinion which is to be inside the bearing. I used the Loctite 641. The manual calls for "Red" TL on the pinion nut. JR regards RED TL as a soft TL, which is not correct on unless you're using JR's own TL. Therefore I applied Blue TL on the pinion nut.

Loctite 641.

Nut secured.

Well that's it for tonight.

 

[Lee]

The quality in that kit is obvious Marius. Enjoy the build

 

[coolgabsi]

That's looking awesome!! What's the width of that pinion motor mount? I am thinking of an electric build on the extra "frame" I have for my nitro and Doing a conversion


That bearing of tt and all is exactly like my vibe.. It's the same design... That one bearing block that holds the vertical tt gear is what I installed upside down once and had a bad bad crash... Cause the tt disengaged mid flight .. Lol so be careful! ( I know you are but just a bad memory lol)

 

[Adam]

that thing looks awesome already

 

[stokke]

I have come to a point where I will have to choose:

120° or 140 ° swash?

Place your votes gentlemen.

 

[coolgabsi]

What radio you have dx6i only does 120.


140 is more precise and but as a beginner pilot you won't see a dofference.

I have never flown 140. I have read around abd that what i found.

Controls are same but just the angle at which its working is better . If your radio supports it just do 140.. And to wont have to "upgrade" later.