General DX6i and Titan Raptor 50
- Thread starter Heli 66
- Start date
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Ohh... not done yet... dang! forgot one big thing... D/r and Expo..... oopsie that would have been a problem .. lol
ok .. what they are Tony has great explanation videos on them
here is what you need to program in there :
Ail and Elevator (position 0) : 80% + 30% rudder 100%+30%
going any lower than this on the D/R (say to 75 pr 70 ) --- you will not be able to control it in any wind.. and it'll be too low. IMO..
Position 1:
Ail and Elevator (position 1) 100%+25% rudder 100%+25%
the smaller percentage is expo.. dont go over 30 on that.. you'll end up creating a dead band...
ok .. what they are Tony has great explanation videos on them
here is what you need to program in there :
Ail and Elevator (position 0) : 80% + 30% rudder 100%+30%
going any lower than this on the D/R (say to 75 pr 70 ) --- you will not be able to control it in any wind.. and it'll be too low. IMO..
Position 1:
Ail and Elevator (position 1) 100%+25% rudder 100%+25%
the smaller percentage is expo.. dont go over 30 on that.. you'll end up creating a dead band...
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
TONY.. please explain
Tony
Staff member
Gaba, you know what idle up is lmao. It holds your throttle at one level while still allowing your blades to change pitch. it's your F-Mode switch, and in your pitch curve, Stunt should be set to 0 25 50 75 100 and Norm should be at 45 47.5 50 75 100. Hold should be the same as stunt. Gaba has already went over throttle curves, adn knows more about nitro settings than I do since he has them and I don't.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
pitch: mid stick should be 0 ... but as far as your pitch curve in "Stunt" position on screen or "F.Mode on 1" is 0-25-5-75-100.. and you pitches are equal both ways.. then you are good. i mean there might be some tracking required... that may fix something. if not.. you are good to go..
Dont fly in f.mode on position 1 yet. Yes keep it at 0 .
The engine tune : 1.5 turns is default. 1 turn is way too lean. esp for the stock muffler you got on there. that'll need more fuel intake. I am on curtis younglood MP5 muffler and i run 1 turn and 5-6 of clicks out. Mp5 consume less fuel.. But tune is different for every engine, and temperature and many more factors. start off at 1.5 turns out on high and where is your low speed? default as per manual? (in line with the carb opening) ?? if you have ny doubt post a pic
start out with 1.5 turns. engine will be spitting out fuel, and will be healthy but low power. then tune slowly two to three clicks at a time.
Please donot be afraid of sounding dumb around here. Again Dumb question is the one you didnt asl.. and that caused injury to the heli or far worse.. you..
so ask away!! apart from that, try to see of you can get those traning skids, and try to hover it, will have less power and will go through fuel fas, but you will be able to track the blades, and then we here can help you tune. (as far as we can) .. best way is to get someone locally and have them help you do it.. but We here can definitely walk you through the steps in theory
Dont fly in f.mode on position 1 yet. Yes keep it at 0 .
The engine tune : 1.5 turns is default. 1 turn is way too lean. esp for the stock muffler you got on there. that'll need more fuel intake. I am on curtis younglood MP5 muffler and i run 1 turn and 5-6 of clicks out. Mp5 consume less fuel.. But tune is different for every engine, and temperature and many more factors. start off at 1.5 turns out on high and where is your low speed? default as per manual? (in line with the carb opening) ?? if you have ny doubt post a pic
start out with 1.5 turns. engine will be spitting out fuel, and will be healthy but low power. then tune slowly two to three clicks at a time.
Please donot be afraid of sounding dumb around here. Again Dumb question is the one you didnt asl.. and that caused injury to the heli or far worse.. you..
so ask away!!
apart from that, try to see of you can get those traning skids, and try to hover it, will have less power and will go through fuel fas, but you will be able to track the blades, and then we here can help you tune. (as far as we can) .. best way is to get someone locally and have them help you do it.. but We here can definitely walk you through the steps in theory
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
true... so go one click at a time...
back plate should remain in touchable temperatures all times. even after a hover for 5 minutes. and also, the smoke trail should be constant no matter what.. just go one click in at a time. between the idling engine and judging the actual condition on a hover give the heli about 30 solid seconds of throttle so you can clear any access fuel from it that might have gotten in the engine on ideling.. after that see if the engine is stuttering .. if it is you know you are rich.. go two in if you hear stutter.. if not go one. dont touch the low speed till you are happy with the high speed needle.
being a new heli man... not having hovered the heli ever, would highly recommend going to the hobby shop and sking someone to tune the engine for you... not because you cant.. but because it requires you to hold your hover and listen and see things which if you are new will be more of distractions than helping in tuning. and then you need to test the punch outs and see if you have enough power and that if you are loosing smoke.. if you dont have anyone. just go one click in at a time.. like tony said.. and try to see just.. JUST.. at a point where engine stops stuttering.. that'll mean atleast its running clean and rich and you can practice your hovers.. anything after that needs a bit more of a flying skill to be honest..
back plate should remain in touchable temperatures all times. even after a hover for 5 minutes. and also, the smoke trail should be constant no matter what.. just go one click in at a time. between the idling engine and judging the actual condition on a hover give the heli about 30 solid seconds of throttle so you can clear any access fuel from it that might have gotten in the engine on ideling.. after that see if the engine is stuttering .. if it is you know you are rich.. go two in if you hear stutter.. if not go one. dont touch the low speed till you are happy with the high speed needle.
being a new heli man... not having hovered the heli ever, would highly recommend going to the hobby shop and sking someone to tune the engine for you... not because you cant.. but because it requires you to hold your hover and listen and see things which if you are new will be more of distractions than helping in tuning. and then you need to test the punch outs and see if you have enough power and that if you are loosing smoke.. if you dont have anyone. just go one click in at a time.. like tony said.. and try to see just.. JUST.. at a point where engine stops stuttering.. that'll mean atleast its running clean and rich and you can practice your hovers.. anything after that needs a bit more of a flying skill to be honest..
Tony
Staff member
On something that large, unlike what I say in my training videos, I would go with the wooden dowl method. Just take two 3/8" wooden dowls and cross them on top of the skids and put some whiffle balls on the end secured with glue, epoxy, rubber bands or zip ties and go with it. You can use carbon fiber, but you are going to be spending some money on it for a bird of that size and weight. You can make a cleaner looking kit if you use a 1.5" square block and drill 4 holes in it. Then you won't have one higher than the other.