600 Goblin 630 Build

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
I used my pitch gauge on the blade grips to set 0 at mid-stick but I think the lines are lined up on the head. I don't think I have the max pitch lines lined up as I set max pitch at -12 & 12. The manual suggests 12.5 but I didn't pay attention to whether the max lines were lined up.
 

murankar

Staff member
To be honest unless your killing it in the air you won't need all 12° of pitch. Well unless your collective management is not spot on. I wouldn't sweat .5°.

Sent from my LG-E980 using Forum Runner
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
I was going to go with 10° but as I kept rechecking my iKON setup....I must have been through that software a dozen or more times, each time meticulously leveling and verifying entries......The last go around I figured out that I could secure the digital pitch gauge on the flat of the blade grip with rubber bands and I was getting more precise measurments so I just maxed it out to 12° thinking that I could limit that in the Tx if necessary.
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Here's an update on what's going on. I have completed the build and initial setup and once I have everything ready for the maiden, I will post some final assesmbly pics and prepare a pre-maiden video!

I have made a list of pre-maiden checks. I still need to install the blades but wanted to go back through the iKON software and verify all settings, directions, pitch, cyclic travel, tail setup, etc. I will bench test and check soft start is working, check head speed, and verify all moving parts are running smooth and I have no wierd noises other than the gears "working in." I will then program the Tx. I will also keep a log of these settings to keep it all straight and make it easier for analysis and evaluation of the maiden flight and transitioning into my normal flying setup.

This past Saturday the weather was great for flying but it didn't correspond with my availability as I had home stuff to take care of. Sunday, was cold and windy and kept me grounded. I am covered with more home stuff this week....UGH! I am hoping to complete final checks and verifications the later part of the week.

Well, not an exciting report, huh!!!

Maiden and video coming soon!
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Well, I was able to get this thing ready for its maiden last night! All I need now is a good day and the time!!!

Just a little velcro around the EC3 plug for the Rx battery so it doesn't dangle!!!


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Blades installed

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I pictured all of my toys here. I first bound the Gobby to the DX7s primarily because I wanted to not have all the features available while I maiden, tweak, and learn how the iKON and Gobby flies. The DX7s only has two throttle curves so I will not be tempted to flip to high head speeds. Once I have my pitch curves, D/R & Expo, iKON bank settings, and Auto Level ironed out and to my liking, I will bind to the DX9. Also, the DX9 talks to me and has many different programing/mapping options and features that I want to plan out prior to final programming and binding to the DX9 but I want to get the Gobby flying right first.

This makes sense in my mind anyway......
:thinking:

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pvolcko

Well-Known Member
Nice. If you can video the maiden. Unless you figure you'll be nervous enough without the vid going. :)

Don't sweat the flight. If you have experience on other CP helis then you'll be all good. My advice:
- Do a control direction and correction direction check before spinning up. WE do this a bunch of times on the bench, but being close to it sometimes you get the perspective screwed up. Step away, check tail direction and do your tilt and swing testing to make sure corrections in the swash and tail are correct. Step away for the tail checks just to get a good look and be able to verify it's going to be pushing and pulling air in the right directions for the stick input and gyro correction. I saved my Gob 700 (4th big heli build) doing this, had my gyro tail correction direction wrong.

- Do your spin up test from a distance. Listen for unexplained high pitch whines and whatnot. Don't leave it spun up too long. Although the Ikon is great at vibration resistance in it's control logic, don't tempt fate by leaving it spun up on the ground for longer than necessary. Spin it back down, to a quick check of screws (touch them make sure nothing is backing out). On the goblins, make sure to check the screws holding the servo mounting plates to the frame. Don't ask me how I know. :)

- Spin it up and then get it a couple feet off the ground quickly. You should be confident of the control directions and correction directions before this point, so do not be stingy with the throttle/collective and try to slowly lift it off or keep it a couple inches off the ground for any length of time thinking it will be safer or more prudent. This is where mistakes with new helis are made. You're not going to be used to the control feel or collective responsiveness. You want to get it up and into the air couple/few feet quickly so you can get used to the feel away from the ground. Only once you're confident with the controls should you be trying to keep it on the deck. :) No need to stab the throttle/collective either, just a good smooth but firm application of throttle/collective once it is spun up.

I agree with Tony, even with beginner bank mode setup, I'd still add 20-30% expo. It will be very soft feeling, but better that than overly responsive compared to what you are expecting. You can always land it and back off the expo setting in the Tx. You can use D/R of 75%, but I do not believe it will be necessary. The cyclic roll rate for beginner mode is *very* tame. To the point that you want to make sure you're a good 75ft in the air if you attempt any stationary rolls/flips with it. It will be like a slug. Using 75% D/R will only make that effective roll rate even slower.
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Thank you for your encouragement and advice for my maiden and for taking the time to post. I feel good about the way it is setup and how it is running on the bench but, as you guessed, I am nervous about getting it in the air. Your above comments offer comfort in that respect. I have watched your G700 maiden vidoes and am practiceing my maiden on the sim. I have a plan of what I will do, which is based on your videos and further in your comments above.

My only thought is that I have been practicing on a Goblin 630 within Real Flight 7, which I am flying with the defaults and it seems touchy, and a Goblin 700 in Phoenix, which I have setup in simple at 60% toward advanced. I am also using high rates on the Tx for both and am hovering and doing stationary piros for 6-7 minutes without fail. My flight plan is to do just that, hover and make some left and right turns, go up and down a few times, and do some piros while listening for any wierd noises and watching for strange characteristics. A friend of mine will video it so I thought I would have him zoom in and I could check tracking on the playback. My thought is that if I can control a "touchy" heli in the sim then real life shouldn't be that diffcult, although very different. I have become accustomed to moving the sticks very slightly. That being said, will the extra softening of the controls freak me out in that I will be feeling like the bird doesn't react when I move the stick and then I will over throw the stick.

Have you experienced anything like this with the iKON versus additional Tx Expo?

Has anyone out there experienced this?

Can you tell I'm a little nervous! :nervous:
 
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pvolcko

Well-Known Member
If you're used to a more sensitive setup, then use TX expo of 10-15 as a starting point with the beginner mode setting in the ikon. It is soft to begin with and it is possible to make it too soft, sure. My first flight with the ikon was on beginner with an additional 30 or 35 expo in the TX. It was entirely flyable but was way too soft around center for my liking. With ikon mode expo of zero I usually use about 20-25 expo in the TX.

Don't sweat the flight. :)
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
I got home yesterday and checked my Tx and I had it already set on +25%. I think I will leave it there. As you've said, I can land and back it off if it is uncomfortable for me.

Thanks Paul!!! :thankyou:

Last minute thought……I have the Glacier 12s 5000mAh 45C stick, as you can see in my prior pics, according to buddyrc.com it weighs in at 1600 grams. I didn't think about weight when I ordered it. I was focused on price! The pulse 12S stick with the same specs comes in at around 1360 grams. Do you think the extra weight will be a problem? If I go with 2 pulse 3700mAh 45C batteries the total weight is 1134 grams.

FYI: I installed the battery tray in the lower holes on the frame…..

I was always told get the highest mAh rating you can afford as it will result in longer flight times….as I research, SAB recommends 3300-3700mAh, in excitement I must have looked over that part in the manual. Will 5000mAh do the trick?

Do you think the added weight will be a problem?

What are you using in your 12S Goblins?
 
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pvolcko

Well-Known Member
The weight will not be a problem. Not until you start getting good at 3d. Longer flight times will be of most benefit until then.
 

Derek

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I wouldn't even worry about the added weight from the packs. I did some rough math and I'm thinking that the extra weight is about 1/2 pound. Just like what Paul said, until you are ready for massive "on the deck" and "bust a move" insane 3D smack, just take full advantage of the extra flight times. Set your CG and just go enjoy yourself.

...and of course....video is required buddy, lol :rules:
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Thanks Paul & Derek! I have to much time to think while watching it rain outside! :smile:

I'm not one to rebel……...Video of the maiden will be uploaded!
 

Derek

Well-Known Member
Well, this Goblin is a big deal to you...and we can understand that. You have concerns and questions and you'll probably not be satisfied until you ask. I have found that it's always better to ask, even with the slightest amount of doubt.

Good luck!!!
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Thanks, Derek! You're right! That is part of the reason RCH is so great....everyone shares the excitement and graciously answers questions and offers their help, no matter how newb the newb is!!! :thumbsup:

I'm looking forward to the maiden and sharing it with you guys!
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Well, it seems I can't leave well enough alone! I need to quit screwing up and fly this thing!!!

I decided last night that I would see if I could center the tail belt a little better and in the process of re-tightening the belt and securing the tail case I stripped out one of the cap head screws that holds the tail case! UGH!!!! :homer: :damnit: I'm a DUMB #@%! The other three tightened up nicely and are holding but i don't want to take any chances with the tail knowing there is one screw not quite holding.

Any suggestions on removing the factory installed Tail Locking Elements (SAB terminology)? The nuts are glued into a carbon fiber piece and secured to the inside of the tail boom with double sided tape (according to the manual).

I could also think of this as I saved my bird and be thankful that I checked and found that one of the screws was on the verge of stripping out........I loose the tail and I loose the bird!!! I am now second guessing the way the manual has you put the ball links into the servo rod with CA glue.....I may go ahead and secure the ball links as Bert K. described in his G500 build video. He sands about an inch of the carbon rod near the ball links and then puts a thin coat of CA and wraps sewing thread around the end of the carbon rod up to the ball link and then puts a final coat of CA on that. Not sure if this would work but it sounds good! Or I could get another rod assembly and put it together using JB Weld, etc. but then I would have to reset the rod length, etc.

I ordered new Tail Locking Elements and new cap screws and they will be here tomorrow. I splurged and got them express mailed so I would have this fixed by the weekend in case there is good maiden weather.

First Time Is A Mistake, Second Time Is A Choice!
 
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Graham Lawrie

Well-Known Member
Silly question??:) Are you using training gear to spool up for the first time or are you going without? The reason I ask is Derek flys well and he spooled up his 450 and like me it tipped over and ate dirt:( Training gear makes a difference until you know 100% it is set up correctly:)
 

HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Thanks for bringing that up. That thought did cross my mind, if nothing more than at first spool up to confirm just what you are talking about. I had my Blade 450 tip over out of the RTF box. I still have the set I built for my 450. It may be a little small but it looks like it would suffice for spool up and getting it light on the skids.
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
I just put my tail on today. The nylon lock nuts in the carbon strip could be heated up to remove. It loosens the CA enough to remove them.
You may aswell give it a try now you have new ones on the way. :)
 
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HeliDinoRC

Senior Rc-Help Member
Thanks, Lee!

Hmmm....I didn't think of heating the nuts up......:eek1: I think I will give that a try, it might hurt a little! :shocked:
 
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