600 Goblin 630 Build
- Thread starter HeliDinoRC
- Start date
I'm sure the connections will be fine just as long as you got them good and hot and the solder flowed around everything without wicking too much up the stranded wire. When I have a tight fit I either cut some strands or I'll tin the end of the wire and while it is still hot (but not molten) squeeze form it with some flat edged pliers to make it fit the connector cup.
Do a test spool up without blades and see how the logs look. Also touch the solder joint part of the connector to see if it is warm/hot compared to the wire before it. If it is hot then resolder it. But you'll probably have to maiden and then do the touch test. Unless it is a critically bad solder the bench test probably will not reveal much. Without the load of the blades and lifting the heli into the air, there likely will not be enough current flowing through them to expose a high resistance, bad solder joint.
Do a test spool up without blades and see how the logs look. Also touch the solder joint part of the connector to see if it is warm/hot compared to the wire before it. If it is hot then resolder it. But you'll probably have to maiden and then do the touch test. Unless it is a critically bad solder the bench test probably will not reveal much. Without the load of the blades and lifting the heli into the air, there likely will not be enough current flowing through them to expose a high resistance, bad solder joint.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
Well much progress was made this weekend. Pictures to follow!!!! I just want to say, what a cool experience to build a heli like this from a box full of parts!
Everything is programmed, wired, and working on the bench. I have a bunch of questions as I wrap things up.
1) How did you make sure the Tail Box assembly is square or attached correctly when the tail is installed and the belt tightened?
2) I got my swash dead on mechanically at mid stick. At high stick the elevator servo there is < 0.5mm gap between the swash and leveling tool. at low stick there is 0.5mm gap? Is this okay?
3) My servo to swash linkages and swash to head linkages were set to the exact length per the instruction manual. Now, when I set everything up at mid stick in the iKON pitch setup I had to turn out the swash to head links 2.5 turns to get the pitch to 0. Okay???? Normal???? No???? Reset????
4) On the bench uplugged from the computer software, I turn everything on to operate and emulate a pre lift off check of the operation of the servos. When operating the cyclic servos they react quick to full deflection of the sticks; however, return to middle slowly. Is this normal?
5) I am concerned about the ball links as I removed and installed them several times (5 maybe) during setup as, being a newb, I was setting and resetting trying to get the geometry perfect and dialed in with the iKON software. Should I replace the ball links???
6) How tight should the tail blades be on this size bird?
iKON questions I have at the moment:
7) How is the soft start programmed in the iKON? I am currently using soft start in the CC ESC. I do not plan to use Auto Bailout though, at least not at this point. Any auto I will be doing will not be on purpose.......for now anyway!
8) From my research the SL feature is on Aux2 but so is bank switching. Wouldn't these need to be on separate switches so you are not fighting the SL when you are in Bank 2 or 3and flying 3D/hard 3D. How does SL work? I have 2 banks 1 @ 1900 set on beginner for lift off and general flying and 2 @ 2000 RPM set to sport for more agressive sport/big air flying. I would like to have SL on bank 2 but utilize my momentary trainer switch to activate it. This way when I get into a sticky situation I can activate SL, regain control, let go of the button and I'm back to flying. Or is this how it even works???
Everything is programmed, wired, and working on the bench. I have a bunch of questions as I wrap things up.
1) How did you make sure the Tail Box assembly is square or attached correctly when the tail is installed and the belt tightened?
2) I got my swash dead on mechanically at mid stick. At high stick the elevator servo there is < 0.5mm gap between the swash and leveling tool. at low stick there is 0.5mm gap? Is this okay?
3) My servo to swash linkages and swash to head linkages were set to the exact length per the instruction manual. Now, when I set everything up at mid stick in the iKON pitch setup I had to turn out the swash to head links 2.5 turns to get the pitch to 0. Okay???? Normal???? No???? Reset????
4) On the bench uplugged from the computer software, I turn everything on to operate and emulate a pre lift off check of the operation of the servos. When operating the cyclic servos they react quick to full deflection of the sticks; however, return to middle slowly. Is this normal?
5) I am concerned about the ball links as I removed and installed them several times (5 maybe) during setup as, being a newb, I was setting and resetting trying to get the geometry perfect and dialed in with the iKON software. Should I replace the ball links???
6) How tight should the tail blades be on this size bird?
iKON questions I have at the moment:
7) How is the soft start programmed in the iKON? I am currently using soft start in the CC ESC. I do not plan to use Auto Bailout though, at least not at this point. Any auto I will be doing will not be on purpose.......for now anyway!
8) From my research the SL feature is on Aux2 but so is bank switching. Wouldn't these need to be on separate switches so you are not fighting the SL when you are in Bank 2 or 3and flying 3D/hard 3D. How does SL work? I have 2 banks 1 @ 1900 set on beginner for lift off and general flying and 2 @ 2000 RPM set to sport for more agressive sport/big air flying. I would like to have SL on bank 2 but utilize my momentary trainer switch to activate it. This way when I get into a sticky situation I can activate SL, regain control, let go of the button and I'm back to flying. Or is this how it even works???
Last edited:
Lee
Well-Known Member
1) rotate the tail rotor by hand. If the belt tried to roll to the side of the pulley, and climb it, then the tail box is not lined up.
2)0.5mm is nothing unless you are a master like Bert you wouldn't notice.
3)The Manual is a guide line. If you have the basics right by the manual, you may need to tweak it as you have done to get it perfect.
4)On the bench there is no movement to tell the gyros what to do next. they will slowly move back to centre unless the gyro or your stick tell them otherwise.
5)Do you feel any play in the links on the balls. If its excessive change them. To avoid this in the future, do not locktite the balls into the swash. Then you can leave the links attached and remove the balls. Once you are happy, lactate the balls in place.
6)Not too floppy, tight enough to need a good push with your finger.
7)I do not recall Soft start being an option on the IKON. Soft start to my knowledge is handled by the ESCs
8)On the 3 banks you have, you will choose two to be identical i.e. 3D. Then set one to have SL. So when you need it, you just flick to the next bank and SL is activated.
Hope this helps
2)0.5mm is nothing unless you are a master like Bert you wouldn't notice.
3)The Manual is a guide line. If you have the basics right by the manual, you may need to tweak it as you have done to get it perfect.
4)On the bench there is no movement to tell the gyros what to do next. they will slowly move back to centre unless the gyro or your stick tell them otherwise.
5)Do you feel any play in the links on the balls. If its excessive change them. To avoid this in the future, do not locktite the balls into the swash. Then you can leave the links attached and remove the balls. Once you are happy, lactate the balls in place.
6)Not too floppy, tight enough to need a good push with your finger.
7)I do not recall Soft start being an option on the IKON. Soft start to my knowledge is handled by the ESCs
8)On the 3 banks you have, you will choose two to be identical i.e. 3D. Then set one to have SL. So when you need it, you just flick to the next bank and SL is activated.
Hope this helps
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
For SL you can't have it on the trainer switch, correct? If you did then the trainer switch becomes the switch that you go between banks, correct?
I think I need help programming my DX7s.
Right now I have F-Mode switch assigned AUX 2 because that is the channel bank switching is on. I only have two banks at this time. If I had the banks (AUX 2) set on a different switch then I would have to move two switches: One to switch to my IU bank for throttle and One to switch F-Mode for the IU throttle and pitch curves. It seems the only switch to use for iKON bank switching would be your F-Mode switch???? The Tx send the signal through the throttle lead to the ESC per the settings it has in the throttle curve. The desired throttle curve is activated by the F-Mode switch,correct? How does the iKON Governor and Tx throttle curve work together?
Does the iKON governor make the throttle curve moot?
Confused I am..............What I want is to use the soft start in the CC Edge HV ESC and have a throttle curve of 30-30-30-30-30 in Normal (F-Mode 0) and 60-60-60-60-60 in IU1 (F-Mode 1). I have only setup two banks in the iKON. Bank 1 is 1900 Beginner and bank 2 and 3 are 2000 Sport.
I think I need help programming my DX7s.
Right now I have F-Mode switch assigned AUX 2 because that is the channel bank switching is on. I only have two banks at this time. If I had the banks (AUX 2) set on a different switch then I would have to move two switches: One to switch to my IU bank for throttle and One to switch F-Mode for the IU throttle and pitch curves. It seems the only switch to use for iKON bank switching would be your F-Mode switch???? The Tx send the signal through the throttle lead to the ESC per the settings it has in the throttle curve. The desired throttle curve is activated by the F-Mode switch,correct? How does the iKON Governor and Tx throttle curve work together?
Does the iKON governor make the throttle curve moot?
Confused I am..............What I want is to use the soft start in the CC Edge HV ESC and have a throttle curve of 30-30-30-30-30 in Normal (F-Mode 0) and 60-60-60-60-60 in IU1 (F-Mode 1). I have only setup two banks in the iKON. Bank 1 is 1900 Beginner and bank 2 and 3 are 2000 Sport.
Last edited:
Lee
Well-Known Member
As far as the gov goes, I haven't set mine up yet, because i use the YEP internal gov.
For Banks, you only need two anyway. One normal and one with SL enabled. I have three set up on my DX8, but i only ever use two.
Most people I have heard put the three banks on the Flaps switch.
For Banks, you only need two anyway. One normal and one with SL enabled. I have three set up on my DX8, but i only ever use two.
Most people I have heard put the three banks on the Flaps switch.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
Thanks Lee!!!! Man, that helps greatly!!!
- - - Updated - - -
Okay, it's becomming clearer....I had it mapped to my Gyro switch and my Gyro to the Mix switch but changed it. If I remapp AUX 2 back to the Gyro 3 position switch, do I keep my throttle curve at flat 30 for normal and flat 60 for IU1 and IU2 (same head speed as IU1) w/SL?
What is the F-Mode switch on the Tx used for?
Last edited:
Lee
Well-Known Member
F-Mode is Flight mode.
In your Throttle and Pitch curve menus, you will see a bar with N 1 2 and possibly 3 These are your flight modes.
You set your preference for Throttle and Pitch to each of these modes. i.e. as you said 30%, 60% or what ever you need.
N is for Normal mode, which is, for example Throttle 0,45,65,65,65. Pitch 45,47,50,75,100
If this is your first set up, I would forget running Gov until you know how to fly it.
Just run Normal then set up ID1 and 2 for something like %65 flat and 75% flat with linear pitch
I this is all chinese to you, I can go into more detail.
In your Throttle and Pitch curve menus, you will see a bar with N 1 2 and possibly 3 These are your flight modes.
You set your preference for Throttle and Pitch to each of these modes. i.e. as you said 30%, 60% or what ever you need.
N is for Normal mode, which is, for example Throttle 0,45,65,65,65. Pitch 45,47,50,75,100
If this is your first set up, I would forget running Gov until you know how to fly it.
Just run Normal then set up ID1 and 2 for something like %65 flat and 75% flat with linear pitch
I this is all chinese to you, I can go into more detail.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
Thanks again for the advice, Lee. I understand what you are talking about but I'm having trouble understanding the relationship between the iKON banks, F-Mode on the Tx and D/R. I will think about my questions and revisit.....perhaps in a separate thread in the Tx section as my questions are about general programming.
Thanks to everyone who is helping me on this project and putting up with me jumping from topic to topic.
I have an additional concern that came up last night and I think I have to redo the tail servo and linkage. I must have had a little newb dumb luck when I first installed the servo and linkage as it just went together or I neglected to notice any problems. Now I am looking over this thing with a fine tooth comb and the tail servo doesn't return the tail pitch slider to mid shaft at center stick. I removed and reinstalled the servo horn several times and the horn nor the tail pitch slider doesn't return to center at center stick. Is this another case of there being no movement to tell the Gyro what to do as Lee explained in a prior post?
It appears the rod is to long and doesn't allow for the servo to center the tail pitch slider unless the servo horn is, what seems to be, to far forward of the servo's "center". I think I need to shorten the rod but the manual had me install the ball links screwed all the way down and I read somewhere that the tail linkage rod is a set distance for a reason and not to change the distance (can't remember where I read this). When the slider moves left for a nose right stick input, the servo arm is thrown forward to max and binds the servo and tail pitch slider. For a nose left stick input the servo arm moves backward just past 90 degrees to the servo case and moves the tail pitch slider max right. I adjust the travel in the iKON so there is not binding and the travel is okay. Removing the horn and reinstalling at center doesn't solve this.
Should there be pitch on the tail blades at center stick?
What is the proper way to center the tail servo prior to installing the horn?
Thanks to everyone who is helping me on this project and putting up with me jumping from topic to topic.
I have an additional concern that came up last night and I think I have to redo the tail servo and linkage. I must have had a little newb dumb luck when I first installed the servo and linkage as it just went together or I neglected to notice any problems. Now I am looking over this thing with a fine tooth comb and the tail servo doesn't return the tail pitch slider to mid shaft at center stick. I removed and reinstalled the servo horn several times and the horn nor the tail pitch slider doesn't return to center at center stick. Is this another case of there being no movement to tell the Gyro what to do as Lee explained in a prior post?
It appears the rod is to long and doesn't allow for the servo to center the tail pitch slider unless the servo horn is, what seems to be, to far forward of the servo's "center". I think I need to shorten the rod but the manual had me install the ball links screwed all the way down and I read somewhere that the tail linkage rod is a set distance for a reason and not to change the distance (can't remember where I read this). When the slider moves left for a nose right stick input, the servo arm is thrown forward to max and binds the servo and tail pitch slider. For a nose left stick input the servo arm moves backward just past 90 degrees to the servo case and moves the tail pitch slider max right. I adjust the travel in the iKON so there is not binding and the travel is okay. Removing the horn and reinstalling at center doesn't solve this.
Should there be pitch on the tail blades at center stick?
What is the proper way to center the tail servo prior to installing the horn?
F-Mode: Tx switch to select different sets of throttle and pitch curves. With a CC set RPM governor setup, have normal mode throttle curve set to 30%, IU1 at 60, and IU2 at 100. Pitch curves at 40-45-50-75-100 for normal and IU1 and IU2 at 0-25-50-75-100.
Ikon banks: These can be slaved to your F-Mode switch, but I personally fly with them on a separate 2 or 3 position switch (gyro on the DX7s for a three position switch). This selects between the bank settings you create in the ikon software either using the four supplied presets (basic, sport, 3d, harcore/extreme 3d) or any tweaking you want to do using agility slider etc. You also set if each given bank setting is going to have self-level enabled or not, and governor enabled or not. Governor in this case is the ikon governor. Since you are using the CC gov you will not have these boxes checked. SL is generally only put on one of the banks settings.
D/R: These are "Dual rate" and exponential settings on cyclic and rudder controls. These can also be slaved to F-Mode, put on the same switch as the bank settings, or put on yet a different switch (or switches). Technically you can assign each of elevator, aileron, and rudder D/R settings to a separate switch per control axis. I generally assign them all to a single switch, the switch is not F-Mode or bank on my setup. However, it does make some sense to assign to the bank selection switch, IMO. Why? Because part of the bank settings on the Ikon includes exponential setup and a form of dual rate (lower agility settings in a bank roughly translate into lowered D/R values, though not exactly the same thing). So you may well find you want to have D/R/Exp settings in your transmitter matched up with the bank settings in the ikon. On the other hand you may like the ability to tweak bank settings with set of D/R/Exp options on the Tx. IT's entirely up to you and you will likely change your mind as you gain experience and play around with things.
If you opt to continue using CC governor, make sure to ask any questions you have on the setup. There's a lot already covered on it on the forums and in videos around the intertubes, so search around too. And, as Lee said, if you want to start off with normal ESC mode (no governor) that's perfectly fine too. I would, however, suggesting getting the governor setup before too long as this size model will definitely benefit from it.
- - - Updated - - -
And on the tail stuff. IN the ikon setup there is a tail setup section. When you are on that at center stick the servo is centered and that is where you should mount the horn and adjust the linkage for center. Then you setup the full left and right deflection amount as described by the software.
When you are not in the software and just running the setup normally, you will see that the tail does not return to center when you move the stick a bit one way or the other (or if you twist the model a bit in either direction). This is because it is in heading hold mode. If you want to see it return to center, adjust your gyro amount in the Tx to a negative value. This puts tail control in rate mode and the tail will re-center when you let off the rudder stick. I usually assign the gyro control to a 2 or 3 position switch (not F-Mode, bank, or D/R) with my top position at a heading hold value that I fly with normally, and then the bottom position in a rate mode so I can flick the switch down and then up before spool up so the tail is centered and doesn't try to dart anywhere on take off. If it is a three position switch then I can use the middle for an alternate heading hold gain setting, useful while tweaking during initial test flights. Some also have gain settings different for normal and idle up flying.
Ikon banks: These can be slaved to your F-Mode switch, but I personally fly with them on a separate 2 or 3 position switch (gyro on the DX7s for a three position switch). This selects between the bank settings you create in the ikon software either using the four supplied presets (basic, sport, 3d, harcore/extreme 3d) or any tweaking you want to do using agility slider etc. You also set if each given bank setting is going to have self-level enabled or not, and governor enabled or not. Governor in this case is the ikon governor. Since you are using the CC gov you will not have these boxes checked. SL is generally only put on one of the banks settings.
D/R: These are "Dual rate" and exponential settings on cyclic and rudder controls. These can also be slaved to F-Mode, put on the same switch as the bank settings, or put on yet a different switch (or switches). Technically you can assign each of elevator, aileron, and rudder D/R settings to a separate switch per control axis. I generally assign them all to a single switch, the switch is not F-Mode or bank on my setup. However, it does make some sense to assign to the bank selection switch, IMO. Why? Because part of the bank settings on the Ikon includes exponential setup and a form of dual rate (lower agility settings in a bank roughly translate into lowered D/R values, though not exactly the same thing). So you may well find you want to have D/R/Exp settings in your transmitter matched up with the bank settings in the ikon. On the other hand you may like the ability to tweak bank settings with set of D/R/Exp options on the Tx. IT's entirely up to you and you will likely change your mind as you gain experience and play around with things.
If you opt to continue using CC governor, make sure to ask any questions you have on the setup. There's a lot already covered on it on the forums and in videos around the intertubes, so search around too. And, as Lee said, if you want to start off with normal ESC mode (no governor) that's perfectly fine too. I would, however, suggesting getting the governor setup before too long as this size model will definitely benefit from it.
- - - Updated - - -
And on the tail stuff. IN the ikon setup there is a tail setup section. When you are on that at center stick the servo is centered and that is where you should mount the horn and adjust the linkage for center. Then you setup the full left and right deflection amount as described by the software.
When you are not in the software and just running the setup normally, you will see that the tail does not return to center when you move the stick a bit one way or the other (or if you twist the model a bit in either direction). This is because it is in heading hold mode. If you want to see it return to center, adjust your gyro amount in the Tx to a negative value. This puts tail control in rate mode and the tail will re-center when you let off the rudder stick. I usually assign the gyro control to a 2 or 3 position switch (not F-Mode, bank, or D/R) with my top position at a heading hold value that I fly with normally, and then the bottom position in a rate mode so I can flick the switch down and then up before spool up so the tail is centered and doesn't try to dart anywhere on take off. If it is a three position switch then I can use the middle for an alternate heading hold gain setting, useful while tweaking during initial test flights. Some also have gain settings different for normal and idle up flying.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
I apologize if misspoke in an earlier post but I am using the iKON governor and the iKON banks. I'm using the CC ESC soft start. I have the DX7s bound at the moment. I hear a lot of people referencing N, IU1, IU2, which I understand these and how they are used. I fly on the simulator this way. I take it off Hold and for take off and landing I use Normal, for flying I flip to IU1 and IU2. I like the idea of working pitch only on the left stick. The DX7s has Normal and Stunt 1 (IU1) operated with the F-Mode switch (2 position). If I understand correctly this means I only have 2 throttle curves and 2 pitch curves that I can set for flying (Normal and IU1), the other is the throttle and pitch curves for HOLD, which I have for throttle 0-0-0-0-0 and Pitch 0-25-50-75-100. So, I mapped Aux to to the F-Mode switch and in the iKON I have setup 1 @ 1900 RPM and setup 3 @ 2000 (The switch operates 1 & 3 in the software) with both using governor, neither using SL. I setup bank 2 with the same RPM as setup 3 just in case. So, my normal throttle curve is 30-30-30-30-30 and IU1 (Stunt 1) is 60-60-60-60-60. I would need a third throttle curve option to have a throttle curve of 100-100-100-100-100 and utilize all three iKON setups, unless I wanted to use SL, which I would then have iKON setup 2 and 3 the same just with 3 utilizing SL, correct?
My bad.
I think you have a bead on things except for the governor rpm settings in the ikon. The three rpm settings do not correlate with the bank selection, they correlate with the throttle value it is reading. RPM 1 is throttle 25-49, RPM 2 is 50-74, and RPM 3 is 75-100. So if, as I understand it, your Tx flight mode settings for throttle curve are:
F-Mode 1 (normal): Flat 30%
F-Mode 2 (IU1): Flat 60%
And your gov RPM settings are: 1900, 2000, 2000
Then F-Mode 1 will use RPM 1900 and F-Mode 2 will use RPM 2000, but the first 2000, not the second one (the one you referred up above to as "setup 3 @ 2000").
The ikon gov rpm settings are shared across all bank settings that have governor enabled and are selected based on the throttle signal being sent by the Tx, not the bank selection in the Ikon.
Sorry if I misunderstood what you were referring to. This stuff gets hard to decipher.
But otherwise it sounds like you have the right idea about what is going on and how things are setup.
I think you have a bead on things except for the governor rpm settings in the ikon. The three rpm settings do not correlate with the bank selection, they correlate with the throttle value it is reading. RPM 1 is throttle 25-49, RPM 2 is 50-74, and RPM 3 is 75-100. So if, as I understand it, your Tx flight mode settings for throttle curve are:
F-Mode 1 (normal): Flat 30%
F-Mode 2 (IU1): Flat 60%
And your gov RPM settings are: 1900, 2000, 2000
Then F-Mode 1 will use RPM 1900 and F-Mode 2 will use RPM 2000, but the first 2000, not the second one (the one you referred up above to as "setup 3 @ 2000").
The ikon gov rpm settings are shared across all bank settings that have governor enabled and are selected based on the throttle signal being sent by the Tx, not the bank selection in the Ikon.
Sorry if I misunderstood what you were referring to. This stuff gets hard to decipher.
But otherwise it sounds like you have the right idea about what is going on and how things are setup.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
No worries. I agree it is a little tricky deciphering what is going on in this type of medium. Added to the fact that I am jumping all over the place as my understanding of this organizes in my brain! I really appreciate your advice and help! I hope that in the future I can help someone on this forum as you have helped me!So, with he above being said, is there really a need to assign the iKON banks to a convenient switch if SL is not being utilized? Here's my thoughts: With a 0-25-50-75-100 throttle curve, at quarter stick and below the speed of the motor goes up and down with the movement of the stick. At just over quarter stick to half stick the motor hits iKON bank 1, regardless of the movement of the stick in this range, the motor runs at the speed set in the iKON. Respectively, at half stick to three quarter stick the motor runs at the speed set in iKON bank 2 and over three quarter stick to full the motor runs at the speed set in iKON bank 3. This happens regardless of what switch AUX2 is mapped to or whether you even use the switch. Now, to utilize the SL feature you program iKON bank 1 to say 1900RPM/Use Governor/Sport/No SL, iKON bank 2 to 2000RPM/Use Governor/3D/No SL, iKON bank 3 to 2000RPM/Use Governor/3D/SL Active. This way you can start out in Normal, take off, get your bearings and then switch to iKON bank 2 for flying and doing stunts. When you get into trouble you switch to iKON bank 3 and the bird levels out and you can regain control then switch back to iKON bank 2 (still IU2) and continue your tricks. Other than the need to use SL there is no reason to have the ability to switch between iKON banks on your Tx since the iKON governs speed as per throttle stick input....what am I missing?
BTW I got the tail servo working correctly last night. I did just as you do with the Gyro. I mapped it to a 2 position switch and set -2.0 on the second postion. Boom tail servo centered! I to like the idea of being able to reset the tail servo prior to take off. Now, I just need to remember to reset before spool up!
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
Wiring and setup complete! Almost to maiden. I just need to balance and install the blades, check COG, finalize the progarming in the DX7s (Pitch Curve, Throttle Curve, D/R & Expo, etc.) I am going with tame settings for the maiden with the governor set at 1900 (Manual suggestion for maiden) in all banks just incase I accidently flip a switch or something and no self leveling (will test this later). D/R I will probably set to limit the sticks and Expo I will start with 25%. I am thinking I will go with a 0-30-30-30-30 throttle curve and pitch curve limited to approx. -2 degrees to about +10 degrees pitch for take off, hover, move around, and landing. As Tony suggested the -2 degress pitch will keep me on the ground as it spools up.
Here are some pics of my wiring job.
Here are some pics of my wiring job.
I certainly would not suggest flying with a 0-100 linear throttle curve with governor turned on. IT may well work, but as you're moving the collective/throttle stick it will be jumping between speed ranges in steps and be difficult to fly smoothly. It may also screw up the governor depending on the implementation of the governor control code vis a vis throttle input.
I use the bank switch most during my setup flights. I'll setup three bank settings that differ by 5 or 10% each on a given setting (for instance yaw rate setting or cyclic roll rate setting) and then be able to do a test flight and switch between the bank settings in flight and test how each feels, narrowing down to my preferred setup. NExt flight I eithe rmove on to a new setting to adjust or I'll re-range the same adjustment across the bank settings to only span +/- 2.5% to really get things locked in. Once I have a setup I like, one of the banks gets that and move onto a new adjsutment or perhaps setup for real flying with a SL mode on one or perhaps a takeoff/landing bank setting (softer cyclic and rudder response, less aggressive cyclic gains) and then a flight setting (totally dialed in to my flight style).
How you use them, if at all, is up to you entirely.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
Okay, I understand how these functions work together and I will get better as I fly.
What's the best way to check COG on these big gobbys?
What's the best way to check COG on these big gobbys?
I just turn the rotor perpendicular to the body/tail and lift with a finger under either blade holder. Some hold the heli by the rotor head so the bottom of the heli is pointed away from them, but I find that a bit cumbersome and the head linkage to the swash tends to induce rotation (could pop the links I suppose).
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
With all of my other helis I have done as you do. This has always worked in the past but this is the first big heli and I thought it best to ask those that have flown the Goblins. I am assuming you want the tail boom to be level and not the skids???
Do you think that since the main shaft is canted forward that holding the rotor head so the bottom of the heli points away from you would give a false reading? Since the rotation point is not perpendicular to the horizontal axis when lifted in the aforedescribed manner it seems as though it would tend to want to return to a certain point, hence giving a false COG. For example the weight over top the front wheels of a car is behind the axis of the wheel so the wheels tend to want to stay straight hence when coming out of a turn the wheels will naturally straighten.
Do you think that since the main shaft is canted forward that holding the rotor head so the bottom of the heli points away from you would give a false reading? Since the rotation point is not perpendicular to the horizontal axis when lifted in the aforedescribed manner it seems as though it would tend to want to return to a certain point, hence giving a false COG. For example the weight over top the front wheels of a car is behind the axis of the wheel so the wheels tend to want to stay straight hence when coming out of a turn the wheels will naturally straighten.
HeliDinoRC
Senior Rc-Help Member
I ran the motor @ 1900 RPM on the bench last night and checked the log. No voltage spikes or dips and it ran within a 1.75 volt range. So far my soldering job is holding up. I will check the log again after my maiden when the motor is under a load. I hope it is warm enough this weekend and I can maiden this bird! 
The Castle Edge log listed a magnet count of 6 poles on the RPM chart and the RPM was reading in the 3,000s; however, my moter has 10 magnetic poles so I entered 5 in the iKON. I don't recall having to enter thie number of poles into the ESC. Any suggestions???
The Castle Edge log listed a magnet count of 6 poles on the RPM chart and the RPM was reading in the 3,000s; however, my moter has 10 magnetic poles so I entered 5 in the iKON. I don't recall having to enter thie number of poles into the ESC. Any suggestions???
Last edited: