600 Goblin 630 Build

[HeliDinoRC]

Well, I have been kicking around the idea of another project. Disecting the iKON would be educational as well!

 

[Lee]

I would get some new 90º pins, solder them on and see what happens

 

[HeliDinoRC]

I will probably end up doing that. I will then need something to put it in........!

After reading your G570 thread, I started to wonder is the G630 considered a 700 class heli? I am wondering what I tell my iKON when I start to set it up.

 

[Lee]

My Warps Ikon, is set up as a 450 even though its probably closer to a Trex 500.
I would say the 630 is a 700 class. The frames are almost identical in size.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

I noticed that and the 700 is only 70mm longer. Does it really boil down to the flight characteristics the iKON has per each class and what works for an individual heli, regardless of size? I mean, you probably wouldn't use the 700 setting for a 450.

 

[pvolcko]

You can start with 700 or 600 size on that. Given the responsiveness of goblin line, especially with half way decent servos in it, I'd start at 600 since the responsiveness will make the control think it is in a lighter, more nimble heli, like a 600. You can then use the sliders to dial in between the 600-700 range for cyclic gain after some test flying.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Okay cool!

Also, what frame rate should I set in the DX7s? I have a 22ms and 11ms option...........RJX FS0521 Digital Servos Cyclic and Tail.

 

[pvolcko]

Highest frame rate your Tx and Rx will allow. It has nothing to do with the servos, has to do with the protocol between the Tx and Rx and the baseline latency there will be between Tx input and Rx output.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

I have done some research and cannot find anything regarding what framerate the iKON will support. Does anybody know if the iKON with DSMX sats will support 11ms.

I have my Tx set at 22ms now and it bound to the iKON with no problem. It seems to be easy to test. If I set my Tx to 11ms and it won't bind to the iKON then I have to use 22ms.

 

[pvolcko]

Yes, it will support 11ms. The frame rate is determined by the Sats in this case and DSMX supports 11ms. IF you have it set to 11ms and try to bind to something that is only 22ms, it will still bind but it will automatically adjust down to 22ms.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Thanks, Paul......I thought that might be the case but wanted to make sure before I blew anything up......I'm a little gunshy now.

I bound and programmed the DX7s last night and got to the point of subtrimming the servos and leveling the swash. I stopped there as it was late and I was tired and wanted to be fully alert for the rest of the setup.

Pictures to follow......

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Here are some long overdue pics of my progrss. I have all the electronics ready for installation (not a professional wiring job but it looks clean and everything is connected. I finished programming my DX7s and "assigned" the servos to a specific location around the swash in the iKON (sorry for the terminology here). I removed the head and leveled the heli for setup. I still have to install the servos and horns, center the horns and level the swash iKON. I'm getting closer and closer!!!

Here's the new iKON. It arrived Wednesday and is working fine!


Wiring Job












On the left you can see the EC3 plug for the Rx battery












This is my ESC with the ground running from the negative side of the 12S batteries to the negative side of the Rx power cable








RX Power Leads






Hello Gobblin!




Tx setup and servos asigned!








Level Heli!!! Ready to install and setup the servos and swash!!!

 

[cml001]

Look'n good! Hey, sent me that 120 ESC for a bit... I just need to borrow it for a little while!.. Lol

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Thanks!!! LOL! I would if I could but I can't!!!

 

[pvolcko]

Looking good! Nice job on the wiring. Looks clean.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Thanks, Paul. My only concern is the soldering of the bullets on the ESC wires connecting to the motor. The huge ESC wires wouldn't fit into the bullet connector and I had to "make it work" as I didn't want to cut the motor wires and put new connectors on. I'm thinkgin I will have to bench test and retest extensively and analyze the flight logs before I maiden.

 

[wolfman76]

Thanks, Paul. My only concern is the soldering of the bullets on the ESC wires connecting to the motor. The huge ESC wires wouldn't fit into the bullet connector and I had to "make it work" as I didn't want to cut the motor wires and put new connectors on. I'm thinkgin I will have to bench test and retest extensively and analyze the flight logs before I maiden.

You could have done like i have had to before and removed a few strands of the wires until they fit into the bullets easier then solder them in

 

[HeliDinoRC]

I might unsolder them and give that a shot. I thought I would fire it up and run the motor to see if it ran smooth and then look at the logs for any inconsistency before I uninstalled everything to resolder.......I'm not that good at it to begin with.

 

[wolfman76]

Neither was i at first but it might hold up till half way through a future flight before it fails and comes apart due to heat build up

 

[HeliDinoRC]

I didn't think about heat building up and causing a disconnection at the connectors. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. You can't see in the pics because the heat shrink covers it but I got most of the wire into the connector and the remaining wires are soldered on the outside of the connector. This is just sort of the way it happened when I heated the connector up and put the wire in……

You don't get a huge voltage or something similer by cutting away strands of a wire???