450 gyro delima

H

hawk-i

Member
Thanks. The videos seem to work when I go to full screen. By the way where is the best place to buy crash parts. I've not even built it yet but I am a realest.lol
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
I get most of my parts from amainhobbies.com. Great website and shipping is MUCH cheaper than helidirect. DO NOT order from helipal unless you want to wait a month for your parts, they are in china. ReadyHeli is another great one as is many others.
 
H

hawk-i

Member
Got my bx yesterday. Just about ready for the build. I have a tube of Permatex blue medium strenth thread locker. Will that be ok to use? Also the instruction manual says to use R48 self green Anaerobics Retainer .I don't know what that is. The kit came with a small bottle of red CA.I have a bottle of foam compatible CA I got from Hobby Town. Should I use that or buy something else? Sorry for all the noob questions but it's my first quality build and I don't want to screw it up.
 
Lee

Lee

Well-Known Member
All metal to metal screws should be fixed with blue thread lock. Don't use the red for anything, its way to strong. For screws into plastic, you can use CA glue
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Most of the time you shouldn't have to. But if you have one that is trying to strip out, a little CA or clear fingernail polish will do wonders until you can reorder the part.
 
H

hawk-i

Member
Ok so what is Anaerobic Retainer and is the blue automotive grade lock tight and the ca for foam ok to use in the build?
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Anaerobic Retainer is just another name for green thread locker. It's used to hold pinions on, bearings in, or anywhere that has a tight clearance. And I would not use CA for foam, I would use the regular stuff, but if you are just using the CA for screws going into plastic, it should be fine.
 
H

hawk-i

Member
Ok guys I got the frame halves put together and am following Tony's build video but I'm using ar7200 and not the align 3gx so it's bigger than the space under the helicopter. So I'm guessing it go's in position 2. And if that be the case do I need anything in the 2 screw holes in the 3gx mount?
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Screw holes? the little piece of carbon that the 3GX mounts on is just friction fitted in the frame. Unless I'm forgetting something. and you are correct, you must run it in position 2 on top of the frame. That is where Matt put his and it's flying great.

Can you post a picture on the "mount" that you are talking about?
 
H

hawk-i

Member
Yeah your right it just sits in there with two tangs and two slots holding it in . It just didn't seem like much to hold it in. So before I stick it on is there any way that is the right way to turn it . Im guessing all wires to the rear. Oh and yes your right about the quality of this machine over the clones. Like night and day. I bought a set of micro hex drivers off the snap on truck that the 1.5 mm didn't fit just right with the clones. I got a cheap set off e-bay that fit the clones perfectly. But the snap on fit the trex perfectly and the cheap one's don't....strange.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Yes, the wires will face the rear. And on the piece inside the frame, there is no front or back.
 
H

hawk-i

Member
servo wiring

Sorry to be such a noob guys but I'm not finding much online as far as what wire go's where on the rx of my ar7200 I guess I could go try and fail method but if anyone knows it would help. All my other receivers don't have aux 2 and aux 3. And what is Rx L? If anyone can point me in the right direction as far as a setup video of this rx I would appreciate it. From what I saw on Horizon's site it's going to take an act of congress to set up.
 
BladeScraper

BladeScraper

Member
ESC wire = Ch1
Left or Right Swash servo (doesn't matter right now) = ch2
Rear swash servo = ch3
Gyro lead = Ch4
Gyro lead that only has one wire on it = ch5
Left or Right Swash servo (doesn't matter right now) = ch6

Easy ;)
 
H

hawk-i

Member
Hey guys I took every screw in the tail [and they were all loose] to thread lock them. My problem is that the last two screws that go through the plastic control link that attaches to the tail rotor holder cause the tail to get tight. loosen them up and everything works fine. There's not a metal collar in that link so I could understand why it would bind. I just don't understand what I'm doing wrong. If anyone can shed some light on this it would help a bunch. Thanks
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
The plastic links on the tail should have a brass sleeve in them. This sleeve should NOT be tight in the plastic. If the sleeve is not as long as the plastic, then you need to sand the plastic down. The bolt will tighten to the sleeve, adn the sleeve will act as a bushing.

If you are referring to the metal linkage where the plastic link slides in, then just use a very little amount of thread locker, and snug it down, but again, the brass sleeve should keep it from binding.

If neither of these are what you are talking about, then a picture or video may help explain it a bit better.
 
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