I looked for brass collar when I disassembled tail, only one was on the other end of the control rod. Looking at the picture on page 10 of the manual the picture only shows one collar. [collar B] . without a collar should I use blue lock tight or ca on the threads? Because as soon as I snug it up the least bit the tail won't move freely. These control links go from tail grips to what the book called the metal type arm.
450 gyro delima
- Thread starter hawk-i
- Start date
Tony
Staff member
Yup, your right, no collar. In that case, I would sand the plastic link down. The bolt is made to bottom out and lock in place. There is not a lot of force on those parts, but they do spin very fast. I don't know if I would trust JUST thread lock on there. I would rather sand a little so that I can bottom the bolt out with thread locker on it and know that it's not going to come off.
Ok guys I got servos plugged into bx and with throttle up elevator go's up and the front two servos go down. I know that on my Blade's the swash go's down when I throttle up but on my clones it go's up. I'm not sure with this bird. Also how do I go about reversing the servo's so they go up and down together?
BladeScraper
Member
refer to this video series:
Goblin 500 Electronics Set Up - Video 1 - YouTube
Different helicopters, same principal.
Goblin 500 Electronics Set Up - Video 1 - YouTube
Different helicopters, same principal.
Westy
LEGEND
+1 from me also... I am non trusting on any of these helis and unless you have paid a good pilot to set it up or you know a good one that will assist you .... double check everything yourself or it will come back and bite you!
Also +1 Tony ... I buy a lot of bits from RC Cars & Trucks, RC Helicopters & Planes - A Main Hobbies also .... yep even way down at the south pole! they are pretty good .... but read the fine print on any suppliers warranties ... I recently had a big drama with them over a very good quality MKS servo that went Kaput on me and they forced me to buya new on (or buy a complete set of different ones).
MKS had a policy where they would honour warranties on thier servos within 12 months .... but the supplier (AMIAN) only had 3 months within thier control .... by the time I got to the guy I had just sold my heli too about getting it back to me to go to Taiwan.... he had already opened it and it was totally burnt out inside = warrenty void as he had opened the thing!!!! GRRRR
I just honoured my sale as it only lasted 2 weeks and blew it .... Any I am prattling on now .... keep us posted as to how you go!
Ok guys thanks for the thread to the goblin build. I followed everything to the letter and it turned out as well as I could have expected. I put my blade pitch at +12 at high stick and -3 at low. I don't fly 3d or even anything close to that at this time. I do have a bit of a problem with the heli being a bit wild. I got it to hover ok but without the training wheels on I'm sure I would have laid it down right out of the gate. Another thing is that I didn't know it till I went to test fly but I had 30% expo on both aileron and elevator I had left over from a different heli. Should I go through my setup again with these setting set to 0? And how can I tame this bird down a bit?
BladeScraper
Member
70% Dual rates, 35% Expo on elevator and aileron.
Westy
LEGEND
um ... I hate to say this ..... but I think you have got WAAAAAYYY too much Pitch. If you are a learner ..... you would tame it down .....
SEt up the heli initially on -11º to +11º or -10º to +10º .... forsetting up your linkages and swash levelling etc ..... but,
then you need to change your pitch curves to suit your flying ability ..... if you are a real newby .... set Low at +2 - +3º hover (Mid stick) +5º and max +7 to +8º
make sure you match the same pitch curve in ID1 but change the top 2 points to 75% and 100% (which will allow sports flying with max +10º) ... and change the bottom stick point to -5º and even out hte second point between low stick and mid stick ....
This will allow you to safely learn the basics .... and also when you start slow circuits .... you will be able to have a bit more control over the heli .....
I would also suggest you set your TH curve to match the ID1 in your learner setup .... or you will have too big a difference in pitch when you switch over to TH ....
***********************************************
THEN
Once you are real comfortable with the slow circuits ..... copy your model (Current one) to another model and name is 3d-sport or something like that ..... or Heli -Pro hhahah
and set up your curves as per normal .......
NOR PITCH DEGREES:
LOW -2º
MID 0º
HIGH +10 to +11
///////////////////////
ID1
LOW -10º to -11º
MID 0º
HIGH +10º to +11º
Remember to also change you TH curve to match your ID1 Curve... and retest before taking off!
Well that is my small contribution for the day hope it helps you out!
SEt up the heli initially on -11º to +11º or -10º to +10º .... forsetting up your linkages and swash levelling etc ..... but,
then you need to change your pitch curves to suit your flying ability ..... if you are a real newby .... set Low at +2 - +3º hover (Mid stick) +5º and max +7 to +8º
make sure you match the same pitch curve in ID1 but change the top 2 points to 75% and 100% (which will allow sports flying with max +10º) ... and change the bottom stick point to -5º and even out hte second point between low stick and mid stick ....
This will allow you to safely learn the basics .... and also when you start slow circuits .... you will be able to have a bit more control over the heli .....
I would also suggest you set your TH curve to match the ID1 in your learner setup .... or you will have too big a difference in pitch when you switch over to TH ....
***********************************************
THEN
Once you are real comfortable with the slow circuits ..... copy your model (Current one) to another model and name is 3d-sport or something like that ..... or Heli -Pro hhahah
and set up your curves as per normal .......
NOR PITCH DEGREES:
LOW -2º
MID 0º
HIGH +10 to +11
///////////////////////
ID1
LOW -10º to -11º
MID 0º
HIGH +10º to +11º
Remember to also change you TH curve to match your ID1 Curve... and retest before taking off!
Well that is my small contribution for the day hope it helps you out!
BladeScraper
Member
+1
My 250 (had) a curve of 0-25-50-50-50
it flew crappy. changed it to 0-40-60-80-85
it flew much better (not good by any means, LOL, it's a 250) but you get the idea, right?
My 250 (had) a curve of 0-25-50-50-50
it flew crappy. changed it to 0-40-60-80-85
it flew much better (not good by any means, LOL, it's a 250) but you get the idea, right?
Slobberdog
Well-Known Member
I think I have mine at 70% and it feels much better flat than having the curve
Westy
LEGEND
It all depends on how much power your motor has and your Batter pack condition .... so once you have found you happy medium .... you will be set .... some I have set up .... run 0, 65, 75, 75, 75
you will know when you hav ethe second number to high ... as when you come in to land .... and get the skids on the deck ..... the heli head speed will increase a lot if you had it to high..... you can just take it down 5% and see how it goes until you match your setup.
you will know when you hav ethe second number to high ... as when you come in to land .... and get the skids on the deck ..... the heli head speed will increase a lot if you had it to high..... you can just take it down 5% and see how it goes until you match your setup.
Tony
Staff member
I have the article written, but have not had the chance to shoot the video. I hope to do it tomorrow if I can get my batteries charged. My charger just died lol. Figures.
Check out the article and see if it helps.
13 Nose In Hover
Check out the article and see if it helps.
13 Nose In Hover