General my first trex 450 sport build

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yak1646

Member
well there is some up and down movement on the shaft but its very less.like i said its stops(wobbling) way before midstick.maybe you could give me some checklist before i fly?
 
KLA

KLA

Member
yak1646 said:
well there is some up and down movement on the shaft but its very less.like i said its stops(wobbling) way before midstick.maybe you could give me some checklist before i fly?
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How much up and down movement? There really shouldn't be any movement at all. Can you post a video of you moving it by hand? That would really help.
 
KLA

KLA

Member
Is that an Align main shaft or an aftermarket shaft? An aftermarket shaft would normally have a collar that goes on the shaft right above the top main bearing, but it doesn't look like there is room for it. An Align main shaft would have a snap ring in that same spot above the top bearing, which is relatively small. In the video it looks like you have the Align shaft but missing the ring above the top bearing which would be the cause of the up and down movement and could also be the cause of the problem you are having at a lower headspeed.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
IMO, that amount of play won't cause any huge issues. It is still an issue though. I think what Keith was talking about is the shims that come with teh main shafts. With that little play, I would just loosen the main bearing blocks and spread them apart to take otu that play. That is what I do on my helicopters. I don't run those shims unless I absolutely have to.

But from looking at that video, I'm going to say your vibration is caused by the blades not being perfectly straight out.
 
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yak1646

Member
well i am using an aftermarket shaft and it did come with 2 thin shims .but my heli already had so i didnt use them.but i think i know what the problem is.ill post a vid.the whole head asembly is moving .(where it screws on to the shaft) >> Quick vid showing something on heli - YouTube

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Im losing all my hair because of this helicopter!!!
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
That is actually quite common on a lot of the Align heads. My Pro has the same slack, but not that bad. Maybe see if you can get a piece of aluminum foil in there. Grab a little water or something and wrap the foil around the shaft 1 time and slide the head on. If there is still play, try another piece until the slack is gone.
 
KLA

KLA

Member
BINGO!!! I think you solved your own problem. The head definitely should not be loose on the shaft like that. The question now is why is it so loose like that? You said you changed the main shaft, are you sure it is the correct shaft? You didn't forget to put the "Jesus bolt " in the head, right?

Tony, at the moment I was in the middle of something and for some reason I couldn't remember what the ring or shims on the main shaft were called so I just called it a snap ring. But your solution of spreading the bearing blocks is a pretty good idea. I don't like using the shims either. Just another place to collect dirt.

Also, the blades being too tight or not straight when spooling up is a common problem that is often overlooked.

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Tony said:
That is actually quite common on a lot of the Align heads. My Pro has the same slack, but not that bad. Maybe see if you can get a piece of aluminum foil in there. Grab a little water or something and wrap the foil around the shaft 1 time and slide the head on. If there is still play, try another piece until the slack is gone.
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I just read your newest post and gotta say that I have never had that problem on any of my helis. But, I don't have an Align head either. I have the Tarot Split Lock DFC head. If that is a common problem with the Align head then I will be sure to never get an Align head. Plus, I'm very happy with the Tarot head.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
The split lock is the better design. It allows the head to clamp down on the shaft like it's supposed to.
 
KLA

KLA

Member
Tony said:
The split lock is the better design. It allows the head to clamp down on the shaft like it's supposed to.
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Yeah, I really like the Split lock head. Not only does it have a bolt to clamp it on to the shaft, it has 2 bolts to clamp it on, one on each side, plus the Jesus bolt. It is a very nice design.
 
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yak1646

Member
My jesus bolt is probably not tight enough.To hell with flybared head.Im also trying to get my 450 sport in the air.Thats a dfc tarot head.I cant wait to fly that with a 6s.I just need to setup the ar7200bx(also a bummer).And ill be set.I just wanted to fly my pro(stock parts) cuz i wanted to practice with it.I dont want to crash my sport cuz it has expensive parts in it(i upgraded everything on it).any ways ill try the method you suggested and get back to you guys if i have any problems THANKS for all the help.
 
KLA

KLA

Member
Why is it a bummer to setup the BeastX? The BeastX is actually one of the easiest FBL gyros to setup. If you need any help, just ask. I'm sure we can walk you thru it.
 
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yak1646

Member
Yes i suppose it is very straightforward.I already programmed half the gyro using tony's videos on youtube.Just need to do the other half. I also cant fly my sport cuz it has a 1800 kv dominator and dont have a 6s YET.and I dont want to take my 3500kv motor out of the pro.
 
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yak1646

Member
could you give me the links for all your ar7200bx setup videos.and all your flybarred(for my sport which is flybarred) head setup videos also.Thanks

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sorry i meant to say my pro is flybarred
 
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yak1646

Member
HEy guys is 20 volts enough for the 1800 kv dominator to run with goood headspeed

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I joined a 3s plus a 2s to make a 5s outputting 20 volts

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If you ask me i would say its enough
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
As long as your batteries are rated correctly. But, if you were running 75% throttle, you may have to go up to 85% throttle.
 
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