Tony
Staff member
Alright guys, Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure.
Since the lights are not on yet, only the moon lights are on, the tank is too dark and blue to get pictures. However, I can get you pictures of the Apex uit under the stand as well as the new Ro/Di unit I installed yesterday for the final time. Below are the pics with captions.
Lets first start off with the Apex system. I can't show all of the programming, but I can show the base units and the PB8 (Power Bar, 8 outlets). The first picture is of the display. As you can see, my tanks temp is right where it should be, but the PH is just a little low. It should be around 8.2 or so. This will change after I start mixing new saltwater with the new salt. the second picture is of the units under the stand. As you can see, the PB8 is full and I need to get another one. But at a bill fiddy a piece, I doubt that is going to happen lol. But you never know.
Now, we are going to move onto the Ro/Do, or Reverse Osmosis / Deionization. Lets just say that I have so much crap in my house that I had to make room in my laundry room for this system. It's the most ideal place since there is a water feed as well as a drain right there close. But in doing so, I would have to stack my washer and dryer. Thankfully, these units are made to stack, have locks in the back so the washer doesn't vibrate off the dryer and look decent as well.
Downside, the controls for the dryer are VERY high. This is an 8' celing to give you an example lol.
Alright, so lets take a look at the ro/di unit it's self. I mounted the piece of wood to the wall for it to have something to hang on. Then I mounted the system. Going from left to right you have the pump, then you have the sediment filter, then you have a 1 micron carbon block, then a .6 micron carbon block, from there the water goes up into the bottom membrane for a final polish. Since there is a 4:1 waste to good water ratio, the waste goes from the first membrane into the second one, thus cutting down on the waste. From the TWO pure good water outlets of the membrane, it goes into the far right canister, the deionization stage.
As you can see, the sediment filter is not white, it's more of a rust color. Yup, this is the water that most people are drinking out of their tap. Makes you want to puke lmao. I have also attached a photo of the sediment filter a little closer up.
So how do I know everything is working? Well there are two ways. I have a gauge that is between the final carbon stage and the membrain, and if I see a pressure drop, I know my sediment filter is getting clogged. If it goes up, then the membrane is getting clogged.
From there, we have to check if the water is clean enough to put into a fish tank. Anything less than 10PPM is safe, but 0 is ideal. As you can see in the first picture, the water coming out of the RO membrane is at 5PPM, which is REALLY good. This is the water that we are going to drink when my new faucet kit shows up on Tuesday. In the second picture, you see that it says 0PPM coming out of the deionization stage. There are two ways to check your DI stage, one is to watch the color of the media go from a blue to a brown as it gets depleted. The second is the TDS, or Total Dissolved solids will go up on the output of the stage. I have read that you do NOT want to drink this water since EVERYTHING but H2o has been removed.
Now that the water is nice and perfectly clean, it goes through a line with a one way and a pump shut off, then through a float valve and into my barrel for mixing. Ideally I would have another barrel, one for fresh water and one for salt, but I'm very limited on space, so this is how I have to do it. Not a big deal. But damn, this is some clean water right here!
And finally, to end it off, Here is a shot of my sump that is fixing to go away, and the skimmer that is doing its job VERY well.
So there you go. There are your pics and an explanation of how things work. I will be adding a kit that will allow us to drink the water from this filter as well as feed it into the fridge so that the ice is much more clear and tastes better. But, that is another post hehe. Hope you enjoyed it.
Since the lights are not on yet, only the moon lights are on, the tank is too dark and blue to get pictures. However, I can get you pictures of the Apex uit under the stand as well as the new Ro/Di unit I installed yesterday for the final time. Below are the pics with captions.
Lets first start off with the Apex system. I can't show all of the programming, but I can show the base units and the PB8 (Power Bar, 8 outlets). The first picture is of the display. As you can see, my tanks temp is right where it should be, but the PH is just a little low. It should be around 8.2 or so. This will change after I start mixing new saltwater with the new salt. the second picture is of the units under the stand. As you can see, the PB8 is full and I need to get another one. But at a bill fiddy a piece, I doubt that is going to happen lol. But you never know.
Now, we are going to move onto the Ro/Do, or Reverse Osmosis / Deionization. Lets just say that I have so much crap in my house that I had to make room in my laundry room for this system. It's the most ideal place since there is a water feed as well as a drain right there close. But in doing so, I would have to stack my washer and dryer. Thankfully, these units are made to stack, have locks in the back so the washer doesn't vibrate off the dryer and look decent as well.
Downside, the controls for the dryer are VERY high. This is an 8' celing to give you an example lol.
Alright, so lets take a look at the ro/di unit it's self. I mounted the piece of wood to the wall for it to have something to hang on. Then I mounted the system. Going from left to right you have the pump, then you have the sediment filter, then you have a 1 micron carbon block, then a .6 micron carbon block, from there the water goes up into the bottom membrane for a final polish. Since there is a 4:1 waste to good water ratio, the waste goes from the first membrane into the second one, thus cutting down on the waste. From the TWO pure good water outlets of the membrane, it goes into the far right canister, the deionization stage.
As you can see, the sediment filter is not white, it's more of a rust color. Yup, this is the water that most people are drinking out of their tap. Makes you want to puke lmao. I have also attached a photo of the sediment filter a little closer up.
So how do I know everything is working? Well there are two ways. I have a gauge that is between the final carbon stage and the membrain, and if I see a pressure drop, I know my sediment filter is getting clogged. If it goes up, then the membrane is getting clogged.
From there, we have to check if the water is clean enough to put into a fish tank. Anything less than 10PPM is safe, but 0 is ideal. As you can see in the first picture, the water coming out of the RO membrane is at 5PPM, which is REALLY good. This is the water that we are going to drink when my new faucet kit shows up on Tuesday. In the second picture, you see that it says 0PPM coming out of the deionization stage. There are two ways to check your DI stage, one is to watch the color of the media go from a blue to a brown as it gets depleted. The second is the TDS, or Total Dissolved solids will go up on the output of the stage. I have read that you do NOT want to drink this water since EVERYTHING but H2o has been removed.
Now that the water is nice and perfectly clean, it goes through a line with a one way and a pump shut off, then through a float valve and into my barrel for mixing. Ideally I would have another barrel, one for fresh water and one for salt, but I'm very limited on space, so this is how I have to do it. Not a big deal. But damn, this is some clean water right here!
And finally, to end it off, Here is a shot of my sump that is fixing to go away, and the skimmer that is doing its job VERY well.
So there you go. There are your pics and an explanation of how things work. I will be adding a kit that will allow us to drink the water from this filter as well as feed it into the fridge so that the ice is much more clear and tastes better. But, that is another post hehe. Hope you enjoyed it.
lmao. Opened it, water flowed in, and wow, great volume of water coming out that will not leave water spots and calcium all over my coffee pot. HELL YEAH! Should have done this sooner. 
