The BEAST Flies again!

DAL2855

Banned
Is it still possible to have the power surge like you were talking about Tony with running the dual battery setup? I'm not too familiar with all of this. But had researched it about how to be able to supply the needed 7.4v to the Ikon and servos since the BEC in the ESC only has the 6v output. Or do you think that I should change back to the original setup and just supply 6v to Ikon and servos? I really wanted to have them running at the higher voltage due to the amount of torque and speed that the servos have compared to running them on the 6v.

Here are the Servos that I will be running when they get here next week:

Cyclics: KM6917MDHV--17kg.cm torque standard high voltage servo (brushless motor) - KINGMAX HOBBY CO., LTD.

Tail: KM3406MDHV--36g 6kg.cm full CNC aluminium hulls and structure mini servo(coreless motor) - KINGMAX HOBBY CO., LTD.
 

Tony

Staff member
I have a VERY strong feeling those bare spade connectors are what caused this. I will bet they shorted out, shorting out the ESC and taking out your Ikon and all of the other electronics. It was a high voltage power surge, that's for sure. And the only place that could have come from is the wires to the motor.
 

Slobberdog

Well-Known Member
Tony would those spades been rated enough for that setup, looks like they were covered with electrical tape, possibly it shrunk with heat and that's why it shorted out.
 

DAL2855

Banned
Those connectors were all individually covered with more than enough black tape so as to prevent them from shorting out on each other. I just had removed it when I pulled the motor out of the heli. Two of the wire connectors have their own hard plastic covers that cover the entire connectors, but I had went ahead and covered them with the black tape anyways just to be 100% sure they couldn't short out. And none of the tape seemed to be hurt or torn or anything. I am just very confused as to what happened. Luckily I didn't have the Ikon on it yet. Had the Align 3G FBL unit on it, which also got fried like the RX and Servos.
 

Tony

Staff member
That is a great point Kev, I think those are ONLY rated for about 20 amps at 12 volts. This setup is pushing 80 amps at 24 volts. I think it's 6s anyway, which is 25.2 volts fully charged.
 

DAL2855

Banned
Yeah Tony, it's a 6S setup, just have the separate RX pack like the 12S setups cause I wanted to power those HV servos I have coming @ the 7.4v they are rated for. But on it currently have only a 6v NiMH powering the RX.

Yeah those are normal automotive connectors. But I thought they should be large enough to handle the power coming through them. I guess not. I'm no good at soldering is why I was using these connections.
 

Slobberdog

Well-Known Member
Mike voltage they might have just about got away with it but, drawing 80amps in any automobile is not on the cards,
 

DAL2855

Banned
So then what kind of solution should I be looking for for the connections? I am absolutely against having to do any soldering. I want something I can install without having to solder anything.
 

Slobberdog

Well-Known Member
Dude that's the problem crimping will give you bad joints and there is a point of heat, it will be like the current jumping from the wires to the connector in lots of little arcs.

you need proper bullet connectors properly soldered, and there's a reason these types of connectors are gold plated, they conduct better than plain steel.
 

DAL2855

Banned
I can't solder though and have no one that I know that knows how to solder that's why I need solderless connections. I do not have the patience to solder. I've tried several times to solder and just do not have the patience to do it. I always end up with a huge blob of solder on the joint and would be willing to bet it's a cold solder joint 80% of the time. So it wouldn't do me any good to try to solder those gold connectors on there anyways.
 

Tony

Staff member
Soldering is your only option. 4mm or larger bullets for that bird. Soldering is not hard. In fact, I have a how to solder video on the forum youtube channel.
 

DAL2855

Banned
Well I don't have the bullets, unless of course they are coming with the new motor I ordered. I know it comes with the male ends but dunno if it's coming with the female ends or not. But here's a couple of shots of some of my soldering jobs Tony. I know they are ugly and there's no way I can solder those ends on these wires soldering like this!

PICT0002_zpsb35def26.jpg

PICT0003_zps7c8ddffc.jpg

PICT0002_zpsb35def26.jpg

PICT0003_zps7c8ddffc.jpg
 

heli-maniac

New Member
Bullet connectors are super easy they have a cup to hold the solder heat it up lay in the solder and put the wire in wile still heating hold a minute with the heat then let cool .
 
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DAL2855

Banned
Those two pics are how all of my soldering joints end up looking so I don't see how that is going to fit inside of those tiny bullet connectors.
 

heli-maniac

New Member
What part of you heat up the bullet connector and melt the solder in to the cup and then stick in the wire do you not get
this is not the same a s a deans plug that your trying to solder
 

DAL2855

Banned
I can't get the solder to melt when I try to heat up the metal of whatever it is that I'm attempting to solder. I don't know if maybe the soldering iron isn't getting hot enough or what.
 

DAL2855

Banned
It's a Radio Shack 40 Watt standard soldering Iron and I'm using Rosin Core Electrical solder from Wal-Mart.
 

DAL2855

Banned
Those two are the only thing I have access too. I have no where to get solder that small.

- - - Updated - - -

The stuff I have is what I have to work with so I have to make it work. I don't have a LHS or anything like that to get all the correct stuff I need. So I have to learn to make due with what I can get.
 
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