600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build

stokke

Well-Known Member
I'm worried i had one of those full right aileron issues due to vibration when it crashed and not the servo moving like i thought.

Thanks Lee. That statement didn't make me one bit nervous at all...... :nervous:

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This one goes out to my bro, Jesse: THANK YOU!

Jesse pointed out a detail he noticed when looking at my pictures, to move the balls one the swash arms. I had not noticed there even was a extra set of holes! I did what he recommended, and I now have the blue BeastX status light at 6°!!!!!!! I have been working on this for about a week now, and after getting Jesse's suggestion it took me under an hour to achieve the blue light. THANKS!
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't worry Marius. I was in a hell of a spin when it happened. I think the gyro just got dizzy :D
Well spotted Jesse.
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Man Jesse noticed something very minute.... Good job Jesse! And so glad that it worked out Marius

I finally now noticed what Jesse saw then. :)

Fly safe!! :) have fun!
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Hey Marius... I need a big favor from you sir.. Whenever you can and if you can .. :D :D

I am planning on upgrding my FBL head to a compass DFC TRACX head sometime.. I know for a fact that the compass DFC TRACX head is a straight fit on the VIBE NEX 50 and NEX E8 .. But I dont know if the main shaft length of my Vibe 50 is the same as your VIBE NEX E8 and VIBE NEX 50 or not..

what I really am looking for is the length of the main shaft THAT STICKS OUT from the top of your main bearing block (including the main shaft collar) to the top of your MAIN SHAFT.. and .. from the top of the main bearing block to the JESUS bolt hole for the main head block. I know for this you will have to remove the head block and swash..

That is why I am saying whenever you can brother. :) No hurry.. I dont wanna hold you back in your build :)

thanks! :)
 
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stokke

Well-Known Member
I know for a fact that the compass DFC head is a straight fit on the VIBE NEX 50 and NEX E8

Really. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm :D

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I'll see what I can do. I still need to read your post ten more times before I understand what you want me to do. LOL - I suck.
 

Tony

Staff member
Just the position of the servo links. 120º, the links are spaced equally around the swash.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
what are the biggest differences between 120° vs 140° swash plates ?

The 120° swash is actually not perfect, in spite of being the most common setup. With 120° you'll have elevator interaction - which means the elevator moves a tad uneven compared to pitch and aileron. To notice one would have to use a crazy amount of collective, and only the pros do that.

The 140° swash however is not perfect either, but more perfect than 120° still. With 140° you almost eliminate all servo interaction - which means you have near perfect geometry (provided you have perfect mechanical setup of course).

At this point in my build, I have come to regret choosing 120° swash. I cannot recommend 140° from experience of flying, but from a mechanical setup point of view I def feel a 140° would be easier to set up.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
I mean when flying it in the air - could I feel a different reaction of the heli?

If you're used with flying 120° with high collective over many years, then switch to 140° with high collective you should feel the difference.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
So after getting Jesse's pro tip :D I moved the balls inward on the swash arms.
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Moving balls on the elevator arm was the trickiest, as it's sort of tucked away in the middle of the frame.
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After a while I managed to get out the elevator arm assembly.
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All balls changed. Everything set back together.
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And there you go, blue light at 6° :D :D :D
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As I mentioned earlier, I still had the tail setup to go. Again I thought I was looking for a blue light at menu point E. Got purple...
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Turned out I misread the manual. When doing tail end points, you get either RED or BLUE at one end point, and purple at the other no matter what end you choose to start in. I was expecting the light to turn solid blue at the last end point. But, as it turned out purple is correct.

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Seeing I have been popping on and off the ball links a million times, I chose to order a set of new ones. This way I can be sure everything is tight and not worn out.

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Swash still level after swapping out link heads.
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Updated the AR7200BX to the latest firmware.
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Re-did the entire BeastX setup.

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Finished my wiring. Most of the wiring is tucked in the lower frame or in the back.
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Looking good on the outside - on the inside, not so much LOL :D
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Well. That concludes the build pretty much. Now I'm waiting for fresh cash so I can order my batteries.

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Lada1

New Member
Where do you order the JR´s parts from?

I see you have traded off the perpedicularity of the arms for the blue light. Not sure if this is the right way to go.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
looks Great Marius cant wait for you to fly that thing around
I'm glad to see her finally coming together Marius! LOOKS GREAT!!!!

Thanks guys :D

Arghhh, the suspense is killing me!!!

You and me both bud ;)

Where do you order the JR´s parts from?

I see you have traded off the perpedicularity of the arms for the blue light. Not sure if this is the right way to go.

I get my spares at the same Norwegian web shop I got the JR.

Regarding un-parallel links on the servo wheel assembly: it is the way to go. You can start reading about this at page 15. LOL

Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build - Page 15
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Went down to the LHS the other day, got myself a random servo extension.
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Ripped off the female connector.
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Hooked up my multimeter/voltmeter to the Rx.
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The Spektrum AR7200BX manual state to perform a stress test on the power setup. One should stir the sticks constantly for 3 minutes, while doing this the voltage should never drop under 4.8V.

At this point the Rx pack was taken from a storage charged state (about 60% capacity).
Got 7.67V on idle (system receives no input).
P1010634.JPG


I stirred the sticks like crazy for 3 minutes - trying to achieve as much voltage drop as possible. At it's lowest, the voltage dropped to 6.59V - around 1V drop then. So no problem with supply.

The servos got hot to the touch afterwards, not so hot I burned my fingers - but hot.
The battery leads also gained some temperature , but just a very mild temp.

The power system was rigorously tested, the whole bird wobbled around on my desk LOL

I say the system passed the test, but that the wires maybe could have been a slightly bigger caliber.

Comments?
 
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