600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build

[stokke]

Actually if you take your Rx apart you will see that the traces on the PCB are all connected for the + & -.

I am aware that if you power one positive terminal you'll power them all - my point is not this, but that the power feed is on both end of the pins, meaning that the servos closest to the power plug will get the most juice and the servos farthest away will get less. My set-up will provide two power plugs, therefore distributing the juice more evenly. Or at least that's the theory - I didn't come up with this myself, I researched it on the interwebz.

I like the redundancy, I just don't think this manner will work as I think it should.

Why's that?

 

[Tony]

I think in order to run a redundant system you should run two batteries with two switches and so on. More than likely if something fails, it will be the battery and if there is only one battery and it fails, then it's game over. Again, this is just my opinion. On the RCH heli, I will only be running a single battery and I hope like hell it will be enough lol. There is a lot of power going into these servos.

 

[Lada1]

The package came yesterday. (Im a bit frustrated the shop guy did not put in the motor and 3x JR DS01 servos, all together almost 600€ what I have already paid for!)
I was surprised that the 3 blade head is in separate box and already assembled.

Not sure if you(mostly stokke as it is his thread) want me to put here also the pictures.

 

[stokke]

The package came yesterday. (Im a bit frustrated the shop guy did not put in the motor and 3x JR DS01 servos, all together almost 600€ what I have already paid for!)
I was surprised that the 3 blade head is in separate box and already assembled.

Not sure if you(mostly stokke as it is his thread) want me to put here also the pictures.

We would love to see your Heli - but please start a new thread in the 600 class section

 

[Tony]

If you are just posting pictures, I would appreciate it if you would post them in the picture section. If you are needing help, then by all means create a thread in the 600 section.

Stokke, you need to hurry up and get this bird in the air lmao.

 

[murankar]

+1 tony on getting in the air. I might beat you both to the punch though.

 

[stokke]

Stokke, you need to hurry up and get this bird in the air lmao.

I might beat you both to the punch though.

Batteries are being ordered on the 10th, but there will be no attempt at flight unless the temperature rises here. So you got at least two weeks to beat me Matthias

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Connecting switches.

Tight fit, but managed to squeeze both witches inside there.

The JST power Y-harness.

After plugging in the connectors I shrink wrap them to be sure the cannot loosen.

JST conversion plug for Rx

Running the rudder wires.

Shrink wrapped.

Y-harness for servos. Power and RUDDER will merge into one connector for the Rx.

Shrink wrapped.

Wire clamp.

Satellite Rx and swash balls showed up.

Align swash ball to the left, JR swash ball to the right. The Align ones are maybe 1mm shorter - very small difference.

Swapping swash balls.

With the Align swash balls. Swash still perfectly level.

NOW, back to the BeastX menu point J - "Teaching Cyclic Pitch Geometry" - "Quest for the Blue light".
With shorter Align swash balls and less spacing on Align servo horns.

Blue showed up at 6.8°

At the specified 6° cyclic pitch I still have red light.

Seeing I have done everything I can, I now have no choice but to accept the red light and continue the set-up. As mentioned earlier, it won't be a problem as people with the same bird have been flying in spite of the red light with great success. It sucks, but I'm going no further.

Menu point K. Setting up the pitch range. I set it at 11° and -11°

Menu point L. Setting cyclic throw limiting. Compared to the 3GX set-up, this is pretty clever. You just tilt the swash to max and use the rudder stick to set the limitation. The JR allowed full use (max) - which also is the Beastx's recommended setting indicated by a blue light.

Finished the two last points of the BeastX - now only the tail set-up remains (point E and F).

____________

Continuing with wiring.

Spektrum DSMX satellite.

Finding a suitable mounting point for the Rx pack.

Mounted the satellite underneath the frame.

Mounted the AR7200BX.

__________

The satellite does not power on, but I guess I'll have to re-bind for it to start working. I'm out of zip ties, so I'll have to continue wiring later.

 

[Lada1]

why did you change the swash balls ?

 

[heli-maniac]

in the 5th and 6th picture from the bottom the servo to swash links dont look strait up and down looks like maybe put the jr balls back on and then move the lower part of the link in to the inside whole

 

[stokke]

why did you change the swash balls ?

Menu point J in the BeastX setup requires to know the 6° cyclic position. The system will indicate by the color of the status light whether your 6° is mechanically accepted or not. No light indicates bad mechanical, purple: not good, red: close but not perfect, blue: perfect. By changing the spacing on my servo wheels and/or using shorter swash balls I can correct the mechanical setup, getting me closer to the blue status light. By doing these changes the servos will have to move farther to achieve the desired pitch - which in turn affects the resolution of control. So the blue light would indicate the best resolution - but I cannot achieve better than the next best thing; red light.

Hope that made any sense

 

[stokke]

in the 5th and 6th picture from the bottom the servo to swash links dont look strait up and down looks like maybe put the jr balls back on and then move the lower part of the link in to the inside whole

WHAT!?! JESSE, YOU MIGHT BE MY SAVIOR! I did not think of that at all! I'll get on it at once

 

[Lee]

Why do you put the velcro strap over the BeastX? Surely the idea with the foam is to isolate the unit from the frame? Putting the strap on puts the unit back in contact with the frame. It probably wouldn't have an effect. I was just curious. Looks so good Marius. Getting impatient for the maiden.

 

[coolgabsi]

Velcro strapping the gyro is a great practice. ESP on bigger birds. Like my beastx on my vibe was also Velcro strapped. The foam is to isolate the vibrations but the gyro needs to be secure too in my opinion to get rid of the jello type effect on these gyros. I found it to be a great practice ESP on my nitros as they just have a ton of vibrations. I don't know if you'll see of a significant difference but all depends on the bird and how vibe free your frame / bird is .

Fly safe!! have fun!

 

[Lada1]

Definitely use the strap over the xBeast! xBeast does not like any vibration. That is the must have solution in order to avoid the xBeast "full right ailerons issue"

 

[Lee]

Taken from BeastX themselves:
Do not strap down the unit if you see vibration problem, but try to dampen the unit more, like taking more layers of double sided foam tape, maybe a small metall plate between two layers of pad additionaly.

 

[stokke]

Taken from BeastX themselves:
Do not strap down the unit if you see vibration problem, but try to dampen the unit more, like taking more layers of double sided foam tape, maybe a small metall plate between two layers of pad additionaly.

I put it on there as an extra precaution. But now I'm getting doubtful whether to leave it or remove it. Hmmm

 

[zenmetsu]

A good quality foam tape should be sufficient. They make adhesives that will likely never fail in 3D flight, even with the most aggressive G forces. I got foam squares and a metal plate with one of my gyros and when deciding to move the gyro, I found out just how good the foam was. It took lots of elbow grease to get that bad boy off.

 

[stokke]

A good quality foam tape should be sufficient. They make adhesives that will likely never fail in 3D flight, even with the most aggressive G forces. I got foam squares and a metal plate with one of my gyros and when deciding to move the gyro, I found out just how good the foam was. It took lots of elbow grease to get that bad boy off.

I have used the adhesive pad that was included with the Rx. If I feel it's on there good by itself, I'll remove the velcro - if not, I think I'll leave it.

 

[breeze400]

The double sided tape should do the trick. In many crashes I've had, my gyro never moved a lick! And that was with cheep tape. I use 3M auto molding tape for everything now it's almost impossibul to remove with out getting behind the gyro with a blade and cutting the tape. When I desided to go with the NAZA GPS on my QAV I broke the kk blackboard that I had on it trying to remove it!

 

[Lee]

The 3M tape they use for GoPro cameras is super strong. If it can keep a camera attached to a helmet doing some of the crazy stuff you see on there website, it will hold a couple of grams of FBL unit. I'm going to put a few more layers on this time. I'm worried i had one of those full right aileron issues due to vibration when it crashed and not the servo moving like i thought.