600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build
- Thread starter stokke
- Start date
stokke
Well-Known Member
They don't look like they will touch. Remember the mains will bend on a curve. But you are in a better place to see than me with a photo.
I realize the blades bend in a curve but if you were here to see it for yourself, I'm sure you'd be skeptical as well. I tried to bend the mains by hand and it looks dangerously close.
Thanks for commenting Lee.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
that blade size should be jsut fine bro! you will not see an issue. And espo running RADIX blades you say YOU will bend the blades.. You better be smacking as hard as Tarique to bend a radix to hit your tail blades ! You will be just fine! They are designed for that size.. What size mains you running?
Are these the 100mm? or 105's? regardless they will perform very well.. A bit more torque required on the tail but less gain as lee said. WITH AMAZING tail hold! I cant run any greater than 96mm.. I wish I could. lol But I'll have to do some changes which I dont need.. so enjoy yout blades
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wooden blades .... YES YOU MIGHT IF AT ALL... it just going inverted.. lol
You better be smacking as hard as Tarique to bend a radix to hit your tail blades ! You will be just fine! They are designed for that size.. What size mains you running? Are these the 100mm? or 105's? regardless they will perform very well.. A bit more torque required on the tail but less gain as lee said. WITH AMAZING tail hold! I cant run any greater than 96mm.. I wish I could. lol But I'll have to do some changes which I dont need.. so enjoy yout blades
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wooden blades .... YES YOU MIGHT IF AT ALL... it just going inverted.. lol
stokke
Well-Known Member
I'm running Radix 625's which is longer than the recommended 600's - this is also why I'm concerned about this; longer mains combined with longer tail blades... well you get it.
ANYWAYS. I have larger fish to fry. The stupid BeastX is fighting me during the set-up. I'm not getting the correct status light during "Cyclic Pitch Geometry" set-up, and the instructions now call for shorter servo horns. And as you know; I had to modify the damn Savöx wheels already!! Grrrrr So now, I might end up with some stock servo wheels anyways...
This is upsetting!
I'm PM'ing Lee now concering his Align wheels.
ANYWAYS. I have larger fish to fry. The stupid BeastX is fighting me during the set-up. I'm not getting the correct status light during "Cyclic Pitch Geometry" set-up, and the instructions now call for shorter servo horns. And as you know; I had to modify the damn Savöx wheels already!! Grrrrr So now, I might end up with some stock servo wheels anyways...
This is upsetting!
I'm PM'ing Lee now concering his Align wheels.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Yeah ... Don't worry too much about that light. I have the exact geometry finally after 6 months of trying it. It's great that you want to set it up the right way. But if you are .5 degrees off and have a blinking light, you shouldn't have an issue. Instead of servo horns change the swash balls to longer or shorter as needed.
Funny cause align people had to use jr swash balls. They are longer
Servo horns won't make a difference anywaz bro if the distance between the holes is what jr manual recommends..
If your modified horns are shorter or longer in anyway.. Only then ill recommend changing them. If they are spot on then aligns will need to have the same distance too and that'll just bring you back to square 1
As far as 625 are concerned. You really still won't run into your tail blades bro. I have people here running that setups. And they are perfectly fine and they do hardcore 3D... One guy who just sold his nex8 had that setup with radixes too.
Seen the goblin? Seen how its blades are crazy close? it'll be just fine!
Fly safe!! have fun!
Funny cause align people had to use jr swash balls. They are longer
Servo horns won't make a difference anywaz bro if the distance between the holes is what jr manual recommends..
If your modified horns are shorter or longer in anyway.. Only then ill recommend changing them. If they are spot on then aligns will need to have the same distance too and that'll just bring you back to square 1
As far as 625 are concerned. You really still won't run into your tail blades bro. I have people here running that setups. And they are perfectly fine and they do hardcore 3D... One guy who just sold his nex8 had that setup with radixes too.
Seen the goblin? Seen how its blades are crazy close?
it'll be just fine! Fly safe!!
have fun!
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zenmetsu
Member
Yup. I noticed a big improvement using the KBDD blades on my 250, and they have considerably more surface area than the Align ones. Bigger is better (to a point).
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get a photo from the side, with the tail blade and the main blades as close as you can get them. Top view is deceptive.
Alternatively, if you can disconnect your blade grip's ball link, you can put the main blade parallel to the boom, and rotate the blade grip so that the blade swivels vertically... then you can see if there is any chance of it swinging down low enough to hit the tail. Even this is an over estimation since the blades flex and will never be able to have the length of a straight blade while under stress.
Or just use string.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Even though I have "spoiled" what's going on in the previous post I will post my recent "progress" (if you can call it that).
Starting with the BeastX set-up (Rx temporarily mounted).
To enter the initial (mechanical) set-up you hold down the set-up button until it stops blinking, then Step A lights up.
(Sorry for up side down pics).
Point A is for Rx mounting position. Red status indicates side mounted, blue indicates flat mounted.
Point B is for setting up swash servo frequency. My Savöx servos supports 200Hz (blue solid status light).
Point C is for tail servo pulse legth. My Savox supports 1520µs (blue solid status light).
Point D is for tail servo frequency. My Savöx supports 333Hz (blue flashing status light).
I will be skipping point E and F at this time. This concerns the tail, which I will be doing at a later point.
Point G is for servo centering. This is rather clever compared to the Align 3GX, as BeastX does everything by it's own.
Centering servos.
Centered.
When doing point G, the system has 4 steps. The rudder stick is used to shuffle through steps. When moving the rudder stick the servos hop up and down, indicating what servo is to be adjusted. The adjustment is performed by moving the cyclic stick left or right.
What's sort of strange is that the fourth step is indicated by no status light - all the servos go to their reference position. SO, if you were to go through the other steps - leveling out the swash, THEN go to the reference position again: the swash becomes un-level. This is sort of confusing, but turns out when you continue the procedure the servos go to the set position again (level swash). This is hard to describe - but I wanted people to know this in case they ever go through the same thing.
Menu point G. While in servo centering (doesn't matter which servo).
Still menu point G. Reference position (status led is not lit up).
Point H is for swash set-up. 120° as I will be using is indicated by a solid red status light.
Point I is for servo direction setting. This is a way to make all servos work in the correct direction. You just cycle through different combinations until it gets right. My set-up worked like it should right from the gekko, so no need for change.
It's while in point I that I notice when raising the pitch all up, the elevator don't follow through. The swash is perfectly level at mid stick, but not at the top or bottom of pitch.
I return to point G (servo centering) and go over it once again. I notice the pitch servo wheel and links looks a bit weird. The links looks to be different legths.
Slight difference.
The JR instructions state to measure the rod gap, but this don't necessarily make the links equal lengths.
As you can see the swash lever to the right is not quite parallel to the servo horn.
After adjusting the top link. Better.
After re-doing the whole servo centering again and double checking everything, I tested the top pitch again. I was able to raise the pitch up to 70% and still keep a level swash.
Same at bottom pitch (70%).
Mid sticks.
Well, it's getting late. Will finish my update regarding BeastX and tail blades tomorrow.
Starting with the BeastX set-up (Rx temporarily mounted).
To enter the initial (mechanical) set-up you hold down the set-up button until it stops blinking, then Step A lights up.
(Sorry for up side down pics).
Point A is for Rx mounting position. Red status indicates side mounted, blue indicates flat mounted.
Point B is for setting up swash servo frequency. My Savöx servos supports 200Hz (blue solid status light).
Point C is for tail servo pulse legth. My Savox supports 1520µs (blue solid status light).
Point D is for tail servo frequency. My Savöx supports 333Hz (blue flashing status light).
I will be skipping point E and F at this time. This concerns the tail, which I will be doing at a later point.
Point G is for servo centering. This is rather clever compared to the Align 3GX, as BeastX does everything by it's own.
Centering servos.
Centered.
When doing point G, the system has 4 steps. The rudder stick is used to shuffle through steps. When moving the rudder stick the servos hop up and down, indicating what servo is to be adjusted. The adjustment is performed by moving the cyclic stick left or right.
What's sort of strange is that the fourth step is indicated by no status light - all the servos go to their reference position. SO, if you were to go through the other steps - leveling out the swash, THEN go to the reference position again: the swash becomes un-level. This is sort of confusing, but turns out when you continue the procedure the servos go to the set position again (level swash). This is hard to describe - but I wanted people to know this in case they ever go through the same thing.
Menu point G. While in servo centering (doesn't matter which servo).
Still menu point G. Reference position (status led is not lit up).
Point H is for swash set-up. 120° as I will be using is indicated by a solid red status light.
Point I is for servo direction setting. This is a way to make all servos work in the correct direction. You just cycle through different combinations until it gets right. My set-up worked like it should right from the gekko, so no need for change.
It's while in point I that I notice when raising the pitch all up, the elevator don't follow through. The swash is perfectly level at mid stick, but not at the top or bottom of pitch.
I return to point G (servo centering) and go over it once again. I notice the pitch servo wheel and links looks a bit weird. The links looks to be different legths.
Slight difference.
The JR instructions state to measure the rod gap, but this don't necessarily make the links equal lengths.
As you can see the swash lever to the right is not quite parallel to the servo horn.
After adjusting the top link. Better.
After re-doing the whole servo centering again and double checking everything, I tested the top pitch again. I was able to raise the pitch up to 70% and still keep a level swash.
Same at bottom pitch (70%).
Mid sticks.
Well, it's getting late. Will finish my update regarding BeastX and tail blades tomorrow.
heli-maniac
New Member
looking good and getting close
stokke
Well-Known Member
that blade size should be jsut fine bro! you will not see an issue. And espo running RADIX blades you say YOU will bend the blades..
There will be no stick bang on maiden day - but sooner or later I'm sure I'll twist the crap out of that bird. Better safe than sorry
It does somewhat suck that I'm loosing that AMAZING tail hold though.I do want that light to turn blue! I'm not comfortable not having this perfect. New servo horns are already on their way
I'm sending back the 105mm's. Not risking it
Thanks
Getting exited over here Thanks. Yes it's hard to take a picture that 100% represents what I'm seeing, and you not. The 105mm's will be swapped out with 95mm's.
Not risking it!
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Thanks for commenting guys!
Tony
Staff member
I think the decision has been made. Stokke is not risking it lmao. In all honesty, you will not notice a difference with your skill set (I'm not saying that as a bad thing) between the ones you are sending back and the ones you are getting. As long as your gyro and tail servo are up to par, it will hold the tail. It's just the longer ones will move more air when given the same pitch. So in theory you will need less pitch. But, it's not that big of a deal. Get what you like, that's what matters.
Oh, and I'm still multiquote KING!!!
Oh, and I'm still multiquote KING!!!
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Marius I understand wanting to have it perfect
That's a good thing
Ok but I don't get how servo horns are gonna make a difference. If the distance of the holes on the new ones remains the same... the throw remains the same regardless of what.
That's why I was saying change your swash balls if you want to get perfect geometry...
Fly safe!! have fun!
That's a good thing
Ok but I don't get how servo horns are gonna make a difference. If the distance of the holes on the new ones remains the same... the throw remains the same regardless of what.
That's why I was saying change your swash balls if you want to get perfect geometry...
Fly safe!!
have fun!
stokke
Well-Known Member
The servo horns I'm now waiting on has a ball spacing of 25mm vs. my now 27mm spacing. From what I can guess, this equals shorter servo horns (as the instructions states to be used). Regarding swash balls; you're talking about the links and not the balls, right? Anyways, my elevator arm cannot be adjusted for length without messing with the 90° servo position.
We'll see how it works out.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
No I am talking about the actually swash balls on the swash plate.
Do some looking around and you'll see how trex 600's geometry would never touch that 6 degree mark... So people had to put JR vibe 50 (same as your nex8 's ) swash balls as they are longer.
Now I didn't know it realize that the servo horns you are using are a bit bigger than jr manual recommended. So, for that, yes! Change those horns to what manual told you to do. And align servo horns have the exact holes you would want to use in here.
If that's the case yes you'll see a change in your geometry as you said and tell you this jr geometry suits every fbl controller if built straight by the manual that's the beauty of JR!!
As compared to align (which someone dreams are superior lol ) .. That was for tony.. Haha
Fly safe!! have fun!
Do some looking around and you'll see how trex 600's geometry would never touch that 6 degree mark... So people had to put JR vibe 50 (same as your nex8 's ) swash balls as they are longer.
Now I didn't know it realize that the servo horns you are using are a bit bigger than jr manual recommended. So, for that, yes! Change those horns to what manual told you to do. And align servo horns have the exact holes you would want to use in here.
If that's the case yes you'll see a change in your geometry as you said and tell you this jr geometry suits every fbl controller if built straight by the manual that's the beauty of JR!!
As compared to align (which someone dreams are superior lol ) .. That was for tony.. Haha
Fly safe!!
have fun!
stokke
Well-Known Member
Aaah, I get it! The balls will stand further out from the swash plate.
Now I didn't know it realize that the servo horns you are using are a bit bigger than jr manual recommended. ...this jr geometry suits every fbl controller if built straight by the manual that's the beauty of JR!!
I really (seriously) hate to burst your "JR" bubble, but the horns ARE by the book as it were. The JR manual called for 27mm spacing, and that's exactly what I have. So now, by going to 25mm spacing I'm going away from the manuals instructions. The new Align horns which are on the way, makes it possible for 25mm or 30mm spacing - I'll use whatever suits the BeastX system best.
Maybe I should have gone all in and gotten Vbar instead....
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
How then I got perfect geometry Here lol
May Be there was a change in their swash or head a bit. While I am not extremely picky on that. I was fine without but that's just me
When I did go in to change my geometry it was at 6.. Oh well. Lol I still think jr is awesome heehee ( that didn't burst it! ;P ) lol
Fly safe!! have fun!
May Be there was a change in their swash or head a bit. While I am not extremely picky on that. I was fine without but that's just me
When I did go in to change my geometry it was at 6.. Oh well. Lol I still think jr is awesome heehee ( that didn't burst it! ;P ) lol
Fly safe!!
have fun!