stokke
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I'll probably do this.
600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build
- Thread starter stokke
- Start date
Thanks. I'll probably do this.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Christmas is coming early thanks to some fresh cash 
Got this yesterday.
Bronto 2S Lipo Rx pack 2200 mah
JST Switch
JST-Servo connector adapter
Got this today OMG the sweetness ;D
Radix 625 V2 Carbon Main Blades
Spektrum AR7200BX reciever
Castle Phoenix ICE2 HV120
Castle USB Link
This last order would have cost me $855.00, but thanks to Flying-hobby I got it at the bargain price of $615.00. Thanks China! I love you
Got this yesterday.
Bronto 2S Lipo Rx pack 2200 mah
JST Switch
JST-Servo connector adapter
Got this today OMG the sweetness ;D
Radix 625 V2 Carbon Main Blades
Spektrum AR7200BX reciever
Castle Phoenix ICE2 HV120
Castle USB Link
This last order would have cost me $855.00, but thanks to Flying-hobby I got it at the bargain price of $615.00. Thanks China! I love you
Lee
Well-Known Member
The CC ESC is awesome. I see you got a Castle link too. You'll find that in the esc packet there is a voucher for a free castle link, so you didn't need to buy it. Ask me how i know that LOL Why????? if your gonna buy an ESC that needs a USB link, you're gonna buy it at the same time right? So to then offer a free one inside the ESC packet is just annoying.
Any way, your gonna love this bird Marius.
Why????? if your gonna buy an ESC that needs a USB link, you're gonna buy it at the same time right? So to then offer a free one inside the ESC packet is just annoying.Any way, your gonna love this bird Marius.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Knock on wood Matthias, knock - on - wood!
What? Aaw maaan... Well, it wasn't that expensive.
I'm building, I'm building!!
stokke
Well-Known Member
My Spektrum AR7200BX. Receiver with built in BeastX flybarless system.
Nice
What's in the box you say?
Manual, bind plug and Rx unit.
Got out all my wiring gadgets.
I'm only using this set-up temporarily, as I'm awaiting some more wiring, switch etc...
I only need to power up such that I can find the servos center (or 90° as it were).
Fired up straight away!
It's also worth mentioning that all the servos, including the Rx will run directly on 2S lipo (7,4V).
It felt kinda good to add this baby to my model list
Unlike Aligns 3GX, the BeastX needs the Tx to be set up as it was using 1 servo (90° operation).
Mmmmgood.
Also, unlike 3GX - the AR7200BX requires the Gear channel to be used for tail gain.
(3GX utilizes the Aux2 channel).
Temporary hook up LOL
After connecting power the servos were set at center (Tx mid sticks).
Then I mounted my servo horns and started to find the best fit for 90°.
I used the etched lines in the servo horns as a visual reference to find my 90°.
As I have been discussing earlier, the provided Savöx horns does not have the required 27mm hole spacing.
So I had to take matter into my own hands.
To remember where my holes were going to be drilled, I used a post-it.
I then found that a 3mm drill bit fits perfectly trough the center hole of the servo horn.
I then drilled the 3mm drill bit into a piece of wood, then disconnected the bit from my drill.
I found one of the multi horns (which does have 27mm spacing).
Put the horn on my "jig".
Then put my 27mm multi horn on top of that.
Used the holes on the multi horn as a "target" - then proceeded to drill through the bottom horn
And there you have it. Circular horn with correct hole spacing
Balls mounted (LOL).
Servo horn mounted.
The provided JR rudder servo horn to the left (which doesn't fit my Savöx servos).
The Savöx rudder servo horn to the right - this guy required no modification.
Rudder servo horn mounted (I broke off one of the horns because I was concerned it would touch the puch rod).
Then there's the ESC's turn.
Castle Phoenix ICE2 120AMP HV ESC - this will pull my 12S batteries and run my motor.
The ESC is a big guy, and it's supposed to sit right next to the motor - which also is a big guy...
Had to move the ESC mounting bracket.
Added some velcro.
TIGHT!
After some few modifications, I managed to press the ESC as far back as it would go.
With the provided velcro strap.
I'm considering re-doing this, I believe I still can get one or two millimeters on that mount.
I'm going to order bullet connectors for the motor wires, and when I get them I'm going to give this mounting another go.
Nice
What's in the box you say?
Manual, bind plug and Rx unit.
Got out all my wiring gadgets.
I'm only using this set-up temporarily, as I'm awaiting some more wiring, switch etc...
I only need to power up such that I can find the servos center (or 90° as it were).
Fired up straight away!
It's also worth mentioning that all the servos, including the Rx will run directly on 2S lipo (7,4V).
It felt kinda good to add this baby to my model list
Unlike Aligns 3GX, the BeastX needs the Tx to be set up as it was using 1 servo (90° operation).
Mmmmgood.
Also, unlike 3GX - the AR7200BX requires the Gear channel to be used for tail gain.
(3GX utilizes the Aux2 channel).
Temporary hook up LOL
After connecting power the servos were set at center (Tx mid sticks).
Then I mounted my servo horns and started to find the best fit for 90°.
I used the etched lines in the servo horns as a visual reference to find my 90°.
As I have been discussing earlier, the provided Savöx horns does not have the required 27mm hole spacing.
So I had to take matter into my own hands.
To remember where my holes were going to be drilled, I used a post-it.
I then found that a 3mm drill bit fits perfectly trough the center hole of the servo horn.
I then drilled the 3mm drill bit into a piece of wood, then disconnected the bit from my drill.
I found one of the multi horns (which does have 27mm spacing).
Put the horn on my "jig".
Then put my 27mm multi horn on top of that.
Used the holes on the multi horn as a "target" - then proceeded to drill through the bottom horn
And there you have it. Circular horn with correct hole spacing
Balls mounted (LOL).
Servo horn mounted.
The provided JR rudder servo horn to the left (which doesn't fit my Savöx servos).
The Savöx rudder servo horn to the right - this guy required no modification.
Rudder servo horn mounted (I broke off one of the horns because I was concerned it would touch the puch rod).
Then there's the ESC's turn.
Castle Phoenix ICE2 120AMP HV ESC - this will pull my 12S batteries and run my motor.
The ESC is a big guy, and it's supposed to sit right next to the motor - which also is a big guy...
Had to move the ESC mounting bracket.
Added some velcro.
TIGHT!
After some few modifications, I managed to press the ESC as far back as it would go.
With the provided velcro strap.
I'm considering re-doing this, I believe I still can get one or two millimeters on that mount.
I'm going to order bullet connectors for the motor wires, and when I get them I'm going to give this mounting another go.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I realize that as well. I think I'm going to get out my Dremel soon
Thanks guys
stokke
Well-Known Member
Continuing with project "getting the damn ESC to fit into the damn tight ass bird of mine" LOL
The Castle ESC is encased in some sort of plastic casing. This casing is made of some rather thick plastic which makes the whole unit rather bulky.
To get to those sorely needed millimeters I will have to grind some grooves on the ESC casing.
Took out a bit just next to the bolts holding the case together.
That made it possible to push the ESC a teeny bit upwards.
Took out a bit on the frame edges as well.
Sanded the bottom of the ESC to make it lower.
Sanded the ESC mounting plate (drilled out the holes for this as well, to make it sit lower into the frame).
Not too bad.
As the gap between ESC and motor is so close, I cannot afford the ESC beginning to move during flight. Therefore I have determined to use one zip tie on the lower part of the ESC. But concerned that the zip tie would slip off due to the smooth and sloped surface, I went ahead and made some grooves in the casing.
Zip tie fits perfectly in the grooves. The Castle instructions states not to use zip ties over the device itself, but seeing that I'm using the zip tie over the lower part of the plastic casing I feel it's not going to be a prob.
Soldering motor leads.
I will be using EC5 connectors on the battery side (I love these connectors, so easy to solder!).
All done
Added the series connector (this connector will enable me to put two 6S in series (12S)).
Yeah. Tossed the velcro, went with double sided thick tape instead (thinner than velcro - LOL).
Zip tied.
I feel the gap is now acceptable.
Put on some edge rubber thingy. This is supposed to protect the motor wires from rubbing against the edge.
After the ESC was thoroughly secured I checked it for movement - it's on there, TIGHT! I now feel confident about this issue being resolved, and believe it's as good as it gets. I also looked in the JR instruction manual where I found some pics of their demo model - the ESC is pretty close to the motor on theirs as well, which of course is re-assuring to see.
The Castle ESC is encased in some sort of plastic casing. This casing is made of some rather thick plastic which makes the whole unit rather bulky.
To get to those sorely needed millimeters I will have to grind some grooves on the ESC casing.
Took out a bit just next to the bolts holding the case together.
That made it possible to push the ESC a teeny bit upwards.
Took out a bit on the frame edges as well.
Sanded the bottom of the ESC to make it lower.
Sanded the ESC mounting plate (drilled out the holes for this as well, to make it sit lower into the frame).
Not too bad.
As the gap between ESC and motor is so close, I cannot afford the ESC beginning to move during flight. Therefore I have determined to use one zip tie on the lower part of the ESC. But concerned that the zip tie would slip off due to the smooth and sloped surface, I went ahead and made some grooves in the casing.
Zip tie fits perfectly in the grooves. The Castle instructions states not to use zip ties over the device itself, but seeing that I'm using the zip tie over the lower part of the plastic casing I feel it's not going to be a prob.
Soldering motor leads.
I will be using EC5 connectors on the battery side (I love these connectors, so easy to solder!).
All done
Added the series connector (this connector will enable me to put two 6S in series (12S)).
Yeah. Tossed the velcro, went with double sided thick tape instead (thinner than velcro - LOL).
Zip tied.
I feel the gap is now acceptable.
Put on some edge rubber thingy. This is supposed to protect the motor wires from rubbing against the edge.
After the ESC was thoroughly secured I checked it for movement - it's on there, TIGHT! I now feel confident about this issue being resolved, and believe it's as good as it gets. I also looked in the JR instruction manual where I found some pics of their demo model - the ESC is pretty close to the motor on theirs as well, which of course is re-assuring to see.
Last edited:
stokke
Well-Known Member
Thanks for pointing that out. Technical jargon slips by my English skills sometimes
Thanks
Thanks. You've got tons of space for your ESC!
stokke
Well-Known Member
Forget it... I mounted the tail blades and they're too long.
As you can see, the tail blades are so long that they might be in risk of touching the mains...
Well not when the main blades are straight, but when they will flex due to hard maneuvers.
Too close to take the chance.
I'll send them back and get the 95mm instead.
As you can see, the tail blades are so long that they might be in risk of touching the mains...
Well not when the main blades are straight, but when they will flex due to hard maneuvers.
Too close to take the chance.
I'll send them back and get the 95mm instead.