600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build

[stokke]

How then I got perfect geometry Here lol


May Be there was a change in their swash or head a bit. While I am not extremely picky on that. I was fine without but that's just me

When I did go in to change my geometry it was at 6.. Oh well. Lol I still think jr is awesome heehee ( that didn't burst it! ;P ) lol

Fly safe!! have fun!

I got 7.6° when my light turned blue - and that's with the stock set-up.

Maybe should have built it with a 140° set-up after all. The 140° swash would probably eliminate the elevator interaction I'm getting as well.

 

[coolgabsi]

I got 7.6° when my light turned blue - and that's with the stock set-up.

Maybe should have built it with a 140° set-up after all. The 140° swash would probably eliminate the elevator interaction I'm getting as well.

On a more serious note then will your push pull rods on your servos be parallel? That's not recommended then...

I still stick by my point to change the swash balls if you have too much pitch try shorter swash balls ( if I an correct) . That'll still keep things square and level.. But again that's just my suggestion

 

[stokke]

On a more serious note then will your push pull rods on your servos be parallel?

With the current horns (27mm) the rods line up perfectly parallel to each other (like a square box).

 

[coolgabsi]

thats what I was saying going 25 or 30 .. youll have non parallel rods right? Cause If your design is similar to mine.. which I think its very very close, you cant adjust the part where your swash connects right? ( i forget the name of the part) .. which I think would give torque coupling on the servo gears.... i am not an expert lol.... but I am just thinkign out loud!

 

[stokke]

What's torque coupling?

 

[coolgabsi]

you'll have to excuse me Marius... man Its too early for me.. ( still) and I am bad at remembering terms and names on a good day.. well forget about that... would it not put stress on the servo? not just that going 25mm your overall pitch range will reduce.. If you already got like 14 or so.. then you'll end up being perfect. but still.. even if I am not right.. having non parallel push pull rods will have a significant change in the whole mechanics , servo torque and travel

 

[stokke]

I get it. Using smaller spacing will increase load/torque on the servos.
I can't say I worry a lot about this considering these servos are rated for 20kg.

BUT, I will check out the possibility of changing out the swash balls - I'll have a look around on the interwebz.

 

[stokke]

So after getting my swash level I put the head back on.

Time to take out these beauties

Blades mounted.

Adjusting tracking links to get 0° pitch. Started at -1.5° - took two turns on the links to get 0°

In the middle of all this my 105mm tail blades and 7200BX USB link showed up.

Originals. These are reported to perform very poorly.

Then, after mounting the 105mm's I saw immediately that the tail blades are too long. Now there was some discussion about this further up the thread, but I dare not take the chance on a tail strike during flight.

Too close.

So the 105mm's are on their way back to the retailer - and I'm now waiting for some 95mm's.

_____________

Back to the head set-up.

Now, in BeastX menu point J, you're supposed to find 6° and the status light should be solid blue. I got purple

So I swapped the tracking links over to the second hole in my blade grips - hoping this would solve my purple light.

This made it worse - I got the blue solid at over 8° pitch

_____________


The BeastX manual suggests the following:

• Shorter servo horns
• Shorter linkage balls on the inner swashplate ring
• Longer blade grips linkage levers

If I were to lengthen the blade grip links - the swash would have to follow, and that's not possible on this system.

I can use shorter balls on my swash which Gaba has suggested.

Or I can use shorter servo horns. Shorter horns in this case translates to less spacing between balls on the round servo wheel. I would very much like to do it this way, as it makes it possible for me to utilize the Align metal horns. The Align horns come with 25mm spacing, so it's only 1mm in on each ball. BUT this would put more torque on my servos, and my push/pull rods will no longer be parallel as the JR instructions depict.

The horns are already on their way, but I'm not SET on doing it this way just yet - I'll have to do some research. We'll see...

Feel free to comment.

 

[stokke]

Well I didn't have to search long before I ran into people doing exactly what I'm planning. It's not uncommon to move linkage balls inward on the servo wheel to "satisfy" BeastX's 6° cyclic pitch requirement.

This guy did it to his T-Rex. See the un-parallel links?

The above example worked like a charm after re-configuration.

I have also been PM'ing a guy on a Norwegian forum which also flies the JR Vibe E8. He didn't care about the blue light, he got purple just like me - but just went ahead with the set-up, and the bird flies like a charm. He also mentioned that using 25mm spacing wouldn't completely solve my problem, but might get me closer to the blue light. He actually mentioned an example he found on Helifreak; a guy with the Vibe E8 was obsessed with the blue light - he ended up with 21mm spacing before achieving the stupid solid blue.

ANYWAYS, I'm reassured - and will be going ahead with the Align wheel when they arrive.

 

[zenmetsu]

Curious, any particular reason to use wheels over arms? Is it a concern that an arm can get jammed, but a wheel is harder to jam?

 

[coolgabsi]

Haha while the swash ball changing didn't work out.

I did tell you that I flew without that light for months without an issue lol I do fly the beast with a vibe

Someone will believe me now! hahahahha

Honestly, I am glad you heard from someone else about that and thing.. It's always good to confirm!

Fly safe!! have fun!

 

[Tony]

Marius, actually if you move the balls in closer on the servo arms, the servo can put out more torque to the bell crank and less stress on the servo. If you move them farther out on the servo arm, there is more stress on the servo and less torque on the bellcrank. However on the blade grips, it's the opposite.

 

[stokke]

Curious, any particular reason to use wheels over arms? Is it a concern that an arm can get jammed, but a wheel is harder to jam?

I guess you'll have a better distribution of force when using wheels instead of arms. An arm will have to push and pull - while a wheel has one rod that pushes and one that pulls. I'm no engineer but it's my best guess

Haha while the swash ball changing didn't work out.

I did tell you that I flew without that light for months without an issue lol I do fly the beast with a vibe

Someone will believe me now! hahahahha

Honestly, I am glad you heard from someone else about that and thing.. It's always good to confirm!

Fly safe!! have fun!

Yes I'm glad I found someone who has exactly the same bird, that makes it easier. I might still look into getting shorter balls for my swash though - as it was indicated less spacing alone won't solve the problem. I guess our birds are the same size and brand - but still different.

Thanks for all your input Gaba.

Marius, actually if you move the balls in closer on the servo arms, the servo can put out more torque to the bell crank and less stress on the servo. If you move them farther out on the servo arm, there is more stress on the servo and less torque on the bellcrank.

Thanks Tony, that's reassuring to hear

 

[Lada1]

Your thread looks fantastic !
I will gladly follow every page over the Xmas. I have mine on the way (3 blades version). My setup will be a bit more costy (as I got crazy again when ordering the stuffs)

regarding the tail - in the MB-351 manual (http://jrpropo.co.jp/english/dl/data/manual_mb351.pdf) is stated that 105mm are only needed if flying hard 3d. And realize the 3blades produce about 1.5 more torque.

Good luck to maiden it safely !

 

[stokke]

Your thread looks fantastic !
I will gladly follow every page over the Xmas. I have mine on the way (3 blades version). My setup will be a bit more costy (as I got crazy again when ordering the stuffs)

regarding the tail - in the MB-351 manual (http://jrpropo.co.jp/english/dl/data/manual_mb351.pdf) is stated that 105mm are only needed if flying hard 3d. And realize the 3blades produce about 1.5 more torque.

Good luck to maiden it safely !

Thanks
I have been drooling on the 3 blade head as well, it looks awesome!
This baby has set me back pretty good already, but I guess you're going with Vbar, Kontronic and Scorpion then?

I believe this thing will be more than enough considering my skill level (been piloting for just over half a year).
The 95mm tail blades will suffice for my own part, I'm sure

Good luck with the build!

______________________________


95mm's and Align Metal servo wheels arrived!

These matches the original JR ones perfectly length wise.

Looking good

Don't have to worry about blade strike now for sure!

The Align bling bling

I'll be using the inner holes.

After swapping out all the servo wheels I started on the BeastX menu point J again, hoping for the damn blue light...

But no luck... At the required 6° I got a red light (had purple before).

The blue light showed up at 6.9°

Stupid *#&%¤* blue light!!!

__________

On the positive side; I got closer than with the Savöx wheels, I had a purple light with those - and achieved blue at 7.6°. So I am in fact almost one whole degree closer to the blue Now to order the shorter swash balls and give those a try!

 

[Lee]

You had to get the blue ones like me LOL They look so much better than the plastic ones.

 

[Lada1]

Thanks
I have been drooling on the 3 blade head as well, it looks awesome!
This baby has set me back pretty good already, but I guess you're going with Vbar, Kontronic and Scorpion then?

Actually I picked up: 3x JR DS01, 1x Futaba BLS 256HV, Jive HV 80+, HC3 SX, Hacker Turnado A50 14L

My intention is to have a maintenance-free heli flying low headspeed, long lasting big sky flights

the ecalc looks like this

 

[stokke]

Actually I picked up: 3x JR DS01, 1x Futaba BLS 256HV, Jive HV 80+, HC3 SX, Hacker Turnado A50 14L

My intention is to have a maintenance-free heli flying low headspeed, long lasting big sky flights

You're going for more of a F3C machine then I see - mine's set up for stick bang 3D

 

[stokke]

The final piece to my power harness arrived today. So here it is:

(Sorry for the blur)

Starts off with a 2200mah Bronto 2S Rx Lipo pack with JST plug.

Power is split with an JST Y-harness.

Two switches. If one line of power fails there will be one for backup (yes, I'll have to remember switching both on).

One line goes directly into the AUX3 port on my Rx. The other to a servo Y-harness, then into the RUDDER port.

___________

I will be mounting this tonight I think, then do a stress test on the servos to see if I get any hot wires.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh yeah. The dual line system is not only for backup purposes, but to distribute power equally over the Rx power pins. This is recommended for bigger FBL systems.

 

[Tony]

Actually if you take your Rx apart you will see that the traces on the PCB are all connected for the + & -. I like the redundancy, I just don't think this manner will work as I think it should. Either way, it should be a great bird. It's almost there.