600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build

[Tony]

IT's starting to come together.

 

[Adam]

Just pure greatness marius

 

[Lee]

She's going to be sweet with those servos.

 

[stokke]

Looking good not much more to go.

IT's starting to come together.

Just pure greatness marius

She's going to be sweet with those servos.

Thanks Guys
Still a way to go though.

________________________________

Started putting the head together.

These balls can be mounted in the inner holes if I'll want more pitch range at a later time.
When mounted in the outer holes they should give about 12 deg collective.

Feathering shaft.

The shaft was a bi*ch to install trough the dampeners - REALLY TIGHT.
So I opted to "hammer" it in, which I later would come to regret...

My instructions came with a separate note. This was some updated instructions, which have been added after the original instructions were printed. They stat to NOT install a shim between grips and dampener. The shims can be installed later if I would like to make the dampeners stiffer.

These are the shims which are "optional". I will not install them for now.

Also, the thrust bearings does not have any markings to separate inner and outer parts. But the instructions DO differentiate between parts; as one is called "small" and one is called "large". When eyeballing the inner diameter, you don't have chance of spotting the difference. But I measured them to find out whats what.

This is "large" LOL

And this is small... WTF...

Everything laid out in order.

Thrust bearings greased and set inside grips.

But now I come to regret hammering the feathering shaft into place. I obviously altered the end by doing this, as it became almost impossible to mount the first spacer shims - REALLY TIGHT FIT!!

When I tried to mount the grips they wouldn't go on the shaft. NO WAY. So I started filing the end of the shaft < second mistake... LOL

After some more attempts to get on the grips, I had to give up. I had ruined the shaft...

So now I'm waiting for a new one. LOL

 

[breeze400]

Some times thinks happen! Lol nice build though.

 

[Tony]

Now you know better lmao. If you are going to hammer on it, use the handle of a screw driver that is acrylic or use a soft headed hammer. Hope you get the part soon.

 

[murankar]

Brass works well in those cases. At least that's what I was told. Brass will give before the steal does.

 

[Tony]

Yup, exactly right. But if you need brass or metal of any kind to get something in, you need to look at what is holding it and find a way to loosen it up IMO.

 

[coolgabsi]

or just put some thin oil on the top of the feathering shaft with your finger and inside the o ring and slip it on. The tighter the better as there is less chance of "slop" thats how they made it. Even my RJX head is like that. But hey you make mistakes and learn! lol Now dont go inverted without Idle up like me.. lol and ALSO dont hammer stuff thats critical!

 

[stokke]

Thanks for all your advise guys

_________________


Got my new feathering shaft. This pic is taken after it had been sitting in the fridge for three hours I remembered metal shrinks when cooled down.

With large amounts of sewing machine oil, a lot of elbow grease and the mandatory amount of curse words - I got it in there.

Grips with bearings and the entire assembly slid on the shaft perfectly

Secured.

Tracking links.

Sweet.

This thing is to be cut in two, then glued on the frame edges around the ESC mount.

Seeing that I haven't got me ESC yet (can't afford), I decided to wait with mounting this.

Even though I haven't mounted my servo horns, I assembled the links.

Then there's the servo horns.
The ones included in my build package won't fit on the Savox servos (JR horns).
So I'll have to use the horns included with the servos.

The big horn is too big. There's no holes that match the 27mm spacing which JR requires.

But this horn matches up perfectly.
Can I use this horn for cyclic, even though JR's provided horns are round/circular?

 

[coolgabsi]

Yes


That's what I have on my vibe now too with the align610 servos










On the circular ones jr gave see my vibe pics to may be heli you with those.. This is the pic from what I used to have on jr8711's

 

[Tony]

As Gaba stated, you can use them. Just make sure they can handle the forces and are not too thin. If they are too thin, then let me know and I will help you make a backer out of that large round one.

 

[stokke]

I've sent an e-mail to the store where I bought the JR and servos asking for some round horns with correct spacing.
If they don't have it, I'll use the Savox multi horns.

 

[Tony]

I know there are some aftermarket horns that I'm using on my Edge (got them from rdsok) and they are perfect. Very thick and light. I'm not sure if they are available in round though.

But as long as they are strong, then you don't "need" round horns. Just make sure the holes are the same distance apart from the center. There are some 4 arm horns that are different lengths.

 

[stokke]

Got my reply, and sadly there is no round horns with 27mm spacing
I have been scouring the web for an hour now; no luck...

It seems the 27mm spacing is very uncommon. Strange choice by JR.
Most other brands utilize 25 or 30mm spacing.

Anyways, guess I'll be using the provided multihorn from Savox then.

- - - Updated - - -

I can't help but to suspect a round horn to be better suited "tolerance wise"....
All the big birds use round horns. For a reason?

Hmmmmm

 

[murankar]

The only thing I can think of right now is the amount of material surrounding the holes. An arm has less support around the holes. This could be an issue once excessive pressure is applied. This could cause an arm to get weak or break.

I have been wrong before but to me makes logical sense.

 

[stokke]

The only thing I can think of right now is the amount of material surrounding the holes. An arm has less support around the holes. This could be an issue once excessive pressure is applied. This could cause an arm to get weak or break.

I have been wrong before but to me makes logical sense.

Yes, that's exactly my theory as well.

 

[coolgabsi]

Do t worry about that too much! I have guys flying 3d on 90 size helis with those 4 legged horns. They do perfectly fine :$

 

[murankar]

Hey I tried lol. Still figuring stuff out myself.

 

[Tony]

Marius, if you really want to do that round horn, get a bolt that is EXACTLY the size of the hole in the center of the horns. Take a small sewing needle or pin and heat it up with a lighter or other such heat source. Push this needle through the 4 leg horn into the round horn in the holes you are wanting to use. This will give you the exact spacing you are requiring as well as the structural integrity you get from a solid horn. If you have a drill bit small enough you can do it this way as well.

The spacing, while ideal to be 1:1 with the other link (can't remember the name of it...), can be either wider or narrower. The wider it is, the faster the servo will move the control surface but with less torque. The narrower, the more torque, but it will be slightly slower. When I say faster or slower, more or less torque, it's not enough for you to actually notice, but it's there. If you have to run slightly off from what the book says, it will be fine.