I asked a question in the ESC area and thought that since it had to do with this build I would update the starting page of this build with the link to the discussion and any other discussions that come about from this build. I thought this may help those who cannot find their answer searching the forum but find their way here and have the same questions/concerns as I do/did.
I began my journey last night (see pics below). I opened the box and identified all the parts and bags and everything is included. I must add that this thing was packaged very nicely with celophane wrap on the boxes and the aluminum parts neatly packed in foam trays and then wrapped in celophane. VERY presentable.....is that where all my money went? Into the packaging???
I am impressed with the care taken in presenting this bird in the box. I can only assume that the individual parts are of the highest quality given their presentation.....or it's a smoke screen!
Just kidding! this is an impressive package or so she says!
You will notice no canopy nor tail boom pictured....those aren't needed yet and there has to be some suspense!!!
Now to begin the build I will need Box 6, Bag 1 and 2, and Tray 2
First task is to sand all the frame edges as to not cut any of the wiring and to give it a nice finishing touch. Not to much as to reshape the edge but just to knock down any burrs from the manufacturing process.
Almost done sanding! Yeah! only pieces left are the two frame sides.
Worktable still not dirty but I assure you, my hands looked like the carbon parts I was sanding!!!
Thanks for the heads up! I read in a build thread on another forum that the guy had a similar problem and the manual addressed it. He had a picture of the two sides side by side and one on top of another and you could see that they were different and the screw/bolt holes did not line up. I put mine together and they are an exact match but I will look into this further.
I finished sanding the frame parts. The next step is to put the frame together.
You guys are right. I did a little research and it appears the common problem is that the holes of the left and right frame pieces did not line up nor did the notches, etc. I layed mine on top of one another and made sure that the left and right frame sides matched prior to building. Every hole and notch lined up perfectly so I proceeded.
Wow! This kit is really nice! I followed the manual to the T and put lock-tite on every screw. All the pieces lined up and it is a very riged frame. I used a glass table top to make sure the frame itself was level. I had to do a little tweaking to get it perfect. First I loosened some of the screws then twisted the frame slightly and check level on the glass top. Repeat......loosen, check, tweak, tighten, repeat..........I got the frame to sit perfectly level on the glass top. Now to install the skids and complete the frame.
Making sure the frame is level before installing the skids (couldn't get a clear picture of the frame sitting on the glass due to the reflections):
Frame is level and skids installed!
FRONT
LEFT SIDE
REAR
RIGHT SIDE
Recheck level and done...........This is exciting!!!
Next phase is building the transmission assembly and installing the motor......Any advice on this phase and cutting the motor shaft?
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Either SAB addressed the frame issue in quality control or I got lucky......
I think Lee or gaba also did a video. Basically you will put the motor in a baggy, poke the shaft through the lower corner of the baggy, tape the bag around the shaft (if the hole ends up to big) then seal the bag.
Go the shaft cut as well as the flat. Now I notice that the mounting screws appear to be to long. They go through the motor and push the white insulator up on one side and push against the wires on the other. I can only use two screws with the Scorpion 4035 but I read somewhere that this is normal.
Has anyone run into similar motor mounting issues???
I can't seem to find alternate screws in the kit and I am thinking of just going to the LHS tomorrow and see if I can find a flat and a lock washer to take up space so the screws don't poke through the motor housing and cause problems.....is this advised???
You can washer it (many motors and mounts come with them for just this purpose). You can also try grinding off the ends of the screws to get them to the right length.
It's good that you caught this. Many just screw things in without considering they are potentially shorting things out in the motor. Can end up causing ESC fires and whatnot.
It pokes through just enough to make me stop and look for a solution. I just wasn't sure if individual washers were the answer....I was wondering if the motor needed a solid mount given the amount of torque and load being put on it. Or if a plate/spacer between the motor and the mount would be better. Since I cut the motor shaft at 30.5mm I have a little room to play with and I think that 2mm would allow me to tighten the screws down.
I've read stories online of motors shorting out because the screws hit the windings. I can't remember were the how to is (I will search again) but I want to test the motor connection once the screws are installed to make sure there is no short or anything.