Quad My Next Quad

Exactly how necessary is the capacitor that came with my FC stack? If I don't really need it I don't want to have to find a way to put it in this frame. The cap is a little large for this quad. However, I guess I could solder some wires onto the leads and put it out of the way. But from my understanding, it's best to install it directly to the battery pads. Is that correct? Will a length of wire actually hinder the capacitor? I'd think surely it wouldn't.
 
The capacitor is only there for sudden bursts of energy consumption. Your flying style doesn't exactly do that so going without it shouldn't hurt. But, having that cap on there definitely wouldn't hurt anything and yes, you can run a small length of wire to get it out of the way if you want.
 
Would it be ok if I put two grommets under the ESC and nothing on the top of the stack? I need some guidance on dampening vibration.
 
You have the MPU6000 gyro, right? If so, then you don't need to dampen anything. You could hard mount that stack. But I guess if you wanted to, you could double stack them on the bottom, but I would leave them just like they are IMO.
 
The thing is with just one on the bottom, if I tighten it up enough the ESC gets closer to the carbon than I'm comfortable with. I suppose though I could layer some electrical tape under it.
 
I'll be able to best determine my mounting when the camera gets here in a little while. I also ordered a M2, M3 stainless cap screw assortment as I think I'll need a longer one than what came with the quad.
 
In that case, I would just put a washer or 2 under it to raise it up. I wouldn't stack O-Rings together. They could compress and become single height. Unlikely, but so is the board touching the CF. But, better safe than sorry. And nylon washers are quite cheap.
 
Just did a test fit of the current screws with the stack. It absolutely will not work without longer screws. They will be here tomorrow.
 
If you have extra stand off's then you can just put the stand off's on the top, then that board on top of the stand off's. Now lets see how many people complain that I didn't say "standoff's" lmao.
 
Why couldn't you attach that VTX I showed you underneath of the top plate. It should work. For the price you will like that VTX. It's the only one I use. I do Have a TBS 800w one on stand by that I purchased on sale for like half price. The Lumenier 600w is my go to VTX :)
 
This frame only has at max about 23mm width available for that stuff. Otherwise installation can get disrupted by the standoffs.

I've already posted showing some of the work I did yesterday. But I wanted to show off a few more 'build pics'. I also wanted to rave about the stainless steel screw set I bought. These things are top quality. I'm replacing all the black ones on this quad with the shiny socket head cap screws. I like this style head better on my quad frames. I feel they are stronger. But on this thing it probably doesn't make a difference.

Helping hands. Couldn't do this without one!
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Motor leads all lengthened and heat shrink applied. (yes tony, clear)
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Motors installed temporarily.
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Getting there...
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Motor leads soLdered.
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Mounting screw beauty!
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I fouled up on the left rear motor leads. While determining the length of the center lead, I accidentally cut it about 2mm too short. So I had to swap the outer and center leads to make them easier to attach. I could have disconnected the motor and re-worked the lead then wasted more time but this was the easiest thing to do. I can change rotation in BLHeli if needed.
 
How much room is there under the esc? You could run the motor wires under there and solder them to the bottom of the esc for a cleaner look. That is how my 140 is run and it looks clean AF
 
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